thorburn

I assume landrover and range rover airbags are the same. The disco 2 airbags were very easy to replace. Paying for it to be done was going to cost over half the cars value Only kept it for towing ability

I'm sure 'boy racer' wasn't the first set of words s/he thought of Edited for p.c

where are you? Depends on budget as well

I've never seen a good looking e38. This hasn't changed that. Engine catches my interest though. Does anyone have any links to that?

That's really tidy under there. Are you going to be reinforcing the subframe while your in there? the turners ones seem easy to replicate Keep up the great work

Oscilloscope Autronics might have a built in oscilloscope. I'm guessing it's been running for a while so it shouldn't be a noise problem. But just to check are the sensor wires properly shielded? and is the ground cable from the shield connected to a good earth The autronic forum seems pretty active. Surely they'll have some words of wisdom http://www.mrm-racing.se/forum/index.php

Can you get a scope on it? Is it still running variable valve timing on both sides and factory cam sensors?

Are all 188mm cases (open or lsd) the same dimensions?

An open diff will give power to the wheel with the least traction. So 100% of the force is going to the slipping wheel(not including the friction inside the differential). As soon as it cut through the snow and got traction the other wheel would start the spinning process.Lsd would give you more traction Most early simple traction control systems work by pulling ignition timing or closing the/a throttle. This holds or brings down the rpm and drops torque. Depending on how traction control is activated will determine if you are more likely to stall. Simpler systems just detect a % difference in wheel speed and pull power. Some only pull power at a certain rev range(eg above 3000rpm). I should've got a dta ecu.

Autoline can make you up some in two part urethane. Well they could last time i checked. Otherwise you could diy it. http://www.topmark.co.nz/articlelive/artic...-Urethanes.html 750grams was about $80 for the f82 last i checked. You might want to go for something a little harder depending on what it is for. Otherwise you can get urethane rod from a few places. Do they need to be made in urethane? Would it work in delrin? What sort of tolerance is needed?

In an e36 yes

Shopping for a friend. I'm trying to keep him away from this thing http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/...n-392167080.htm Does anyone have anything? the closer to auckland the better

i'll come have a look tomorrow

Have you had this done yet? I want to give it a go myself. Would like to see the route you took first.

Good to finally see this. Looks like a good fit Do you have to do anything to the headers to make them fit? Does it use the 1uz power steering stuff

i've got some h&r sport springs for sale if your into that sort of thing

Any bmw wrecker. If you post in the want to buy section there'll usually be 1 or 2 that jump at you

Cheers much appreciated.

has this all ways had a cage and i've just missed it? Do you have any pictures of the cage? is it just half

Bummer. Thanks for solving that option glenn Very pricey springs. I don't think i can part with that sort of money for a spring that looks like something you'd find in a pen. Think i'll go with plan B and measure the spring rate and go spring hunting

I've stripped down a getrag 250. Only problem i've found is a few springs inside the synchro rings (part 13) have broken. The springs in 1st and 2nd sync are destroyed as well Now i'm trying to find a part number http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=...hg=23&fg=15 The gearbox is from a 323i 1997-9?

I've got one of the cheap L&Lee ones and it does the trick. I've used a few more expensive tigs at tec and find my cheapy works just as well. The tutor that recomended the L&Lee has had one for the last few years and hasn't had any problems yet. Oh and the user manual is in nearly un-readable chinglish Only thing i'm lacking now is materials, skill and time

your warrant inspector is going to get a nice surprise

Hadn't heard of the panel damage part. Could be right as one of the side intrusion bar runs right along side the sound deadening. Although I don't think i'll worry about it Straight pipes are pretty loud. Centre section is heavy as well.

I personally just used the heat gun. Came out quite messy. But was fine. Dry ice from boc seems to be the better option If your looking for all the hidden sound deadening there's some in the rear quater panels, in the doors, in under the dash, and some under the wiper motors. Sorry if i've ruined the surprise for you. Everything else is pretty obvious.