dirtydoogle

It could just be a matter of cleaning the pump, they are a vane type pump as far as I know, so definitely potential for it to stick the vanes when cold. Have you tried giving it a little rev after start up?

Would be a catcams hot street cam, around 252°@0.040", fairly street able, small vacuum assist loss on the brakes in parking lots and a little bit of bucking if not tuned perfectly. Not a terribly high performance cam, but make a great sound and wake the car up, and only technically require a spring and retainer upgrade to run Realistically it would be around 170-180whp, dyno depending.

I can't imagine that. I moved my Austin 10 on Sunday and the pinion seal let go from excitement

There's very little to say about Toyota hybrids. The only less-than-adequate part of the camry is the awful brake pedal feel. It does around 6.6L/100km in town and open road, and with 470km on the clock it still has around the same electric only range as advertised on the original battery. I'm considering buying a current shape Corolla hybrid this year.

We have a very high km Camry Hybrid for around town duties. It's comfortable and quiet, does the job. Very easy on the wallet I run a 406 diesel at the moment as a commuter, and at 4.5L/100km is about as much CO2 as a purely coal powered EV (which isn't even a reality anyway) Our family car is a Lexus gs430, not particularly green. The old British cars in the shed are broken and the mx5 gets driven a couple times a year. The junky old Pug has paid for itself in a very short time over commuting in the Lexus.

Yes they control the opening and the closing rate. Not just fapping all over the show like older stuff

Apart from the pre injection it would be continuous The same words of caution apply. It's not as simple as petrol injection tuning, which I do a lot of, or carburetor stuff, which I do a lot of. But, if you want to Google your answers to try one up someone who i has been the performance industry for more than a couple of forum searches, who is just saying be careful, be my guest.

Only a preliminary jobbie by the looks of it. Which makes sense as to why my last tuned one absolutely stunk and made your eyes water at low speeds. However, if you want to play with it, by all means. I guess all I can do is warn people that it's foolish to tu-tu

Unsure how many stages an early m57 does, as I said I have stayed clear of the common rail tuning, no benefits for me to invest my time in something I don't typically work on, or plan to. You have listed the other maps/areas to be addressed. The disadvantage to ramping all cycles is needless EGT changes that can otherwise be avoided and much higher NOx emissions. Pretty destructive to an early pre-DPF car (e53) and even worse for DPF cars. Multi stage has a lot of benefits, NVH, cylinder pressure/temp, emissions and economy.

If you only change those targets you'll be running in to short lived engines with multiple stage injection per cycle

The worry for me is a fair few professionals out here will essentially alter fuel timing, increase rail pressure and boost pressure targets. Meaning a "typical re-flash" may be no better than a tuning box. 4m40 is a great motor. Compared to a Toyita 3L

Pretty much bang on. There are a few tuners out there that can keep something emissions compliant (Banks power is one) but very few. A great way to increase economy in a diesel is limiting EGR and that does everything you have said. On newer petrol stuff the power comes from timing, and boost, not air fuel ratio so much. Never played with common rail diesel tuning, it's significantly more complex to do safely on a common rail engine compared to a dirty 4M40t

Raycroft autos, BT is a heck of a good bugger.

We use Asmuss and got steel during lock down in Hawkes Bay. We are an essential business though

He is a young fella and can't get/afford insurance on it. No harm if he makes a profit

Yep. But 17kg over the front axle where the car is not so affected, or a 22kg lighter engine with significantly more accessories? I think this is more an argument for the sake of an argument, than quantifiable difference in feel or performance. A passenger is an entirely different thing, a much bigger difference in a much more important location. We move ballast around quite a bit to suit different stuff, especially on shingle. And the front axle is nowhere near as critical. However we are very particular on co driver and fuel tank positioning

Biggest difference will be increased front tyre wear. And likely clearance issue

I should likely spend more time driving them than building them I guess.

17kg off the top of my head. Or about a 1/4 tank of gas. I doubt you would be finding much if a significant improvement with thatvkind of weight difference, unless you're driving my MG Midget

I'm sure it would. But I don't think that would apply here, because you wouldn't be staring with any BMW if the end goal was light weight 🤣

I'm sure the 22kg difference between an S54 and S55 isn't too major. Especially once you add in all the extra weight of the S55 boosted set up, and gearbox. 😉

If they're claiming that coupe has an "average interior" with mismatched seats, trashed driver seat, trashed mismatched center console, mismatched door cards and dash, faded rear seat and faded parcel tray, I reckon they would be pretty easy to please Could probably fold their hand around a dog turd and convince them it's a taco What a mess.

You're absolutely right there. I've had to replace very nice brackets made of 6061-t6, done by CNC for hand made mild steel ones, with tacked on spacers to pass a cert. The beautiful irony was these brackets were on the car when it was built in 2001, and subsequently functioned as a track car up until 2 years ago when we started getting it road legal. Needless to say, the 10mm mild steel brackets I made have been replaced with the original set now. It's an absolute piss take sometimes

Unfortunately Nick is correct. As much as it sucks, that's the long and short of it. Luckily, it's not very expensive to get a cert, and by using OE parts it's easy peasy

The 3.0 has a nice little harmonic issue, I would say rod/stroke ratio is a big factor in it, the 3.0 is a bit pants in that respect. Even a non tensioner 2.5 or 2.8 will do it for a long time. But not a b30