dirtydoogle

A lot of over thanking going on here. Basically check what flywheel you have before buying bits, unless you plan on replacing the flywheel too Buy some decent quality E-torx sockets and some long 1/2" extensions Borrow a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench for the clutch cover bolts (buy 6 new m8x16 cap head screws, 22-24nm for a grade 8.8 fastener, with a drop of loctite) Get the car on stands Disconnect battery Remove the exhaust Remove driveshaft and heatsheild (If it was put back on during conversion) Remove slave cylinder and cable tie out of the way Disconnect shifter linkage Unbolt the starter (m50 cars are bolt and nut, so get a friend to help from the top to bold the nuts on the starter side, unless you have small hands like me) Unbolt bellhousing bolts and cross member bolts Do not miss the little fellas on the dust shield around the bottom Remove gearbox. They're very light, you can lift them with one arm in to position while lying down. If replacing flywheel, please replace the bolts with the correct ones, and this will depend on what flywheel you have, these are torqued to 105nm, a drop of loctite doesn't hurt (use very sparingly) Buy and install a new pilot bearing, 6002-2RS is the number and available off the shelf at Repco, BNT etc. Removing the pilot bearing, Google how. Many methods, I like to use wet white bread if I don't have my tool with me Once you've done one or two of these you can comfortably do a clutch and flywheel change by yourself under an hour on the ground. It's not as daunting as people make out

I'll take the old motor off your hands 😉

We have two circuit pack GRs, and a DB9 on the boat now 👍 The Aston should arrive next month

I'm trying to figure out what caused Wolverine to have an epileptic fit on the drivers seat

You should be able to pick up a G220 for around 4-500 all day long M20 bellhousing is the same, but as you say mounting angle is on the wees D/shaft won't work either. Clutch will be okay unless you have a 240mm one due to internal clearance, I think, but don't quote me on that Your shifter will sit on the piss too

Yup that was a very nice example that one. I did the engine and diff for it. Drives really nicely

I know the car from before it being registered, was in Dannevirke Damage flagging was parcel shelf cut for bigger speakers IIRC correctly it was a tarted up car from Japan and had a set of BBS RC304s on it. Nothing special to drive unfortunately, was a total let down for me

Aware of the basics and info online. Just never hurts to ask if anyone experienced has tips, looks like 2 cars will be coming back

Please not a 996!

How many of you have personal experience with bringing a car in? A friend of mine is going to be traveling to the UK to visit family and we are planning to get them a Yaris GR, and bring it home after 6 or so months under the PES scheme. Has anyone got any useful contacts or advice? TIA

What model BMW do you have

Probably just a faulty anti drain valve in the pump.

It's about time. There have been multiple recalls on various brands in the states for quite a while Likely worn out dies and typically poor Chinese QC Ratchet stands are poo. Pin lock is the way. I had a reasonably new ratcheting stand drop an RX3 at my head while servicing after the Motu. That was scary

Certainly isn't too easy to get a real nice E55 now, but still doable and they are an absolute bargain. I can see both sides of the argument with e30s and mx5s, but they're totally different cars for different people. Personally I find the mx5 is a much more fun/pure entertainment drive. I've always found e30s to be a "nicer than normal, normal size car" from the era, not in a bad way though. I do have appalling taste though 😁

I'll risk being banned here If I was spending the money l would buy an E55, and save 25k for tyres. Family skids in comfort. And keep my current MX5, because 1st gen MX5 is best car ever.

You air consumption/maf reading looks much to high for my liking, that's around 3.5gm/s and I would expect nearer 2gm/s or 7-7.5kg/h

Short answer, no. Would require cert for welding

PSI is a measure of restriction, so really isn't worth reading in to, too much. As an example a 2jz toyota I tu-tu with is making 730whp on 23psi. The same car, with a different turbo and divider on the manifold was making ~580whp (same dyno) on more boost, with lots less torque and far worse response CFM in to the engine, exh turbine pressure and cylinder head design are the key elements here. You will find the general majority of OE turbos are quite inefficient and only work okay through the mid range

That would be an awful job trying to remove paint defects that bad. Lovely car, once.

M52b25 uses the same valve and cam package as a m50/52b20, not worth putting money in to. M50b25 or b28 head is where the difference is

That manual plot looks pretty decent, airflow deviations in the midrange like that would be consistent with vanos position Are you able to graph the o2 voltage and injector duty? I would certainly be doing a smoke test on the car, purely due to its age

Are you able to view and plot the maf readings? That's usually the "easy" way Should be reasonably linear under low load (in nuetral) I would expect to see above 3.5 gm/s and below 4.5 at idle If you have a non linear deviation then the fun starts

Yes, there are a few guides online to diagnosing them

Cheap pressure tester from trademe has a shrader adapter and they're fine for occasional use

Scan it with something that will talk to it. Otherwise there is a plethora of things that will cause an ABS fault You can test the sensors with a DMM with diode function