adro

Those wheels ?

anyone know if i can update my GM module which is currently a GM3 'low' module to a GM3 'high' module. Does it need coding like the lcm or can I plug it in and use PA soft to change the options? My end game here is i'm wanting to retrofit an M5 steering box but the servotronic unit requires a GM3 high module according to the internet. Cheers, A.

Nabbed the stereo face plate from @Eagle 's E39. Still missing a few pixels but significantly better than what I had and cheaper (and 100x quicker) than a ribbon repair (i've already failed at this once). Before: After: A while I ago I also swapped the LED interior lights out and put the halogens back in. I thought the LED's were a little harsh for the interior. I left them in for the glovebox, boot and puddle lights as figured the brighter the better in those locations It's also been in at Hutt Automatics this week for a check up. I think my paranoia mistook a misfire @80km/h uphill for torque converter clutch pack failure. Pleased to say they couldn't find any faults with the transmission and I've replaced cyl 3 coil pack.

I have one of the ones from detail depot and it works great on my Karcher, although I have a similar issue to @Cammsport and it sits on a bit of an odd angle.....but not a deal breaker.

230,XXXkm New Battery time. Din88 CCA 850. Local garage gave me a 'deal' on a Century, 3 year warranty etc...worked out cheaper than repco but...ouch. No coding required on the E39 is my understanding? I also got new tires but that's been abit of headache with the balancing. Went with Dunlop Sport Max 050's all round 235/45/17 front and 255/40/17. Beaurepairs attempted to balance them twice since i had a horrific shimmy at 80-100 km. Resulted in being told both my rims are bent only to go to Bridgestone Miramar and have them tell me that the fronts had 30grams and the rears had 20grams too much weight on them...and that the shape of my wheels are fine. 80-100km shimmy gone........mostly I still have a 50km and a100km little shimmy/high frequency vibration through the steering wheel and seat though which seems to get worse after 20mins of driving. It's small but annoying.

Ha don't worry, I won't tell. No i haven't done either of those yet. I was thinking it would be all in one hit when I decide what to do about the rack, although I hadn't considered the steering guibo. Good to know @Olaf.

yeah, nothing pressing anyway. My WOF shop tell me there’s abit of play in the steering rack every 6 months. Would like to rebuild or upgrade that at some stage. Rear trailing arm bushings and subframe bushes are waiting in the parts cupboard but until The E39 cuts me some slack that’s all ‘would be nice’ stuff.

thanks! Ha, the E39 is still for sale at the right price ? I'm hoping to keep the E30 as long as I can. It's makes me smile everytime I drive it.

123,000km Car had been in with Jon @auto38 because it started bucking and lurching at 2000rpm, it had always had quite bad drivetrain lash but this bucking/lurching made it very unpleasant to drive. Jon diagnosed play in the U-Joints as probably the main culprit. I dropped the exhaust and heatshields (not that fun on your garage floor) and took the driveshaft out to Bryan Howatt of Howatt engineering in lower hutt for a rebuild and balance. This manual swap came out of a members black convertible 325i that was stolen and then recovered....so the drive shaft is high mileage Found the hanger bearing's rubber casing to be broken. Also found my mysterious exhaust leak. Bryan worked his magic and a week later the drive shaft was ready to be picked up replaced the hanger bearing, both U joints, the little vibration damper, 1 exhaust stud (the bolt stayed on and I screwed out the stud) and new copper nuts. Car was running much better, no clonks from the drivetrain when the clutch engaged and disengaged but the bucking/lurching was still there @2000rpm in each gear. I thought it must be the diff as there was still rotational play there when I put the driveshaft back in. Called @beemwr who I sold my original diff too and had a good yarn. Then called Kayne Barrie who had rebuilt the current LSD in it and he said it sounded like the engine was running lean and to check my tune. So I chucked the Turner Motorsport chip back in (I had taken it out to trouble shoot the bad fuel economy) and the lurch is gone. Car is pulling nice and healthy and drivetrain is smooth, and no mysterious exhaust smell in the cabin. Happy days.

2297XX Celis F/L tailights installed. I've been trying to do this for about 1 year now. After 2 dud sets off trademe I had sort of given up but then @BreakMyWindow came through with a set from one of his recent missions to A&E. These also had the plug adapters, major score. Then I was too noob/scared to use NCS to try and code them in and my ISTA P is still not working but @hqstu came through with an LCM IIIB off a late model 525 running all the celis and xenon goods. My PA soft 1.4 is working and so following the E39 source videos I coded the LCM to my car, was alittle apprehensive as to how the front Xenons and wiring were going to respond but everything works perfect so I went ahead and started drilling some holes in the the tailight buckets. I followed E39 source videos again for this and a forum DIY. No hole saw but this stepped drill bit worked a charm New holes plug adapters Before after Fitments pretty good, I did have to do abit of bashing with a hammer. Since I've had it 3 years as of this month I thought some new plates would make a nice birthday present. TBH i was planning on keeping the plates when I sold it so went about remaking them while I was filling in the forms to make them mine. I didnt drill the rear plate, I just screwed the surround (which is abit faded and could probably do with a refresh) and then snapped the plate in place. The E39 community really helped me out with this one, thanks guys! Update on the shimmy. Case closed. I've had 2 people drive the car now and they are more worried about my mental health than any vibrations. Tyres are still on the cards and a new Battery is in the not to distant future too.

Sorted. Thanks!

I'm wanting to install some rear celis tail lights in my E39. Ideally looking for an LCM that was already running LED tailights so I can just recode it to my car using PA soft. OR if someone has the ballasts floating around I would take those too. Will need them/it shipped to Wellington Cheers, A.

For sure! Even better, transporting backdrops to and from location.

Thanks man. Motorway test this morning. Car is in good shape. Jon threw the rears on the balancer while he was doing the suspension arms and said there is a few flat spots so I’m guessing the minute vibration I can still feel is tyres (fingers crossed)

229,000km alignment done. Car feels a lot better, rear end is really tight. Still chasing a small vibration though. Rear tyres are game over so currently pricing up replacement option. alignment sheet: Replaced all 4 rotors over the last few nights. ATE from BMworkshops parts dept. great price and overnight delivery. Inspected all the caliper pistons and seals. Everything looks in good order. Hand brake got a well needed adjustment too. the fronts made a massive difference to the front end shimmy. It’s pretty much gone, not completely but for the most part. No shimmy under breaking down the gorge either which iv been using as a road test recently and was where I noticed the worst vibration at 80km downhill. Not sure if that’s because they weren’t bedded in at this point causing enough stress on the suspension arms or if the old ones had deposits making them hen vibrate. Guess time will tell. Haven’t road tested with the rears on yet. Bike rack is on after getting hold of the Thule T bolts for the whisper bars. roof racks finally being put to use for some work. I think tyres (rears at least) are next on the list.

Thanks, yeah it’s been checked. I got a Guibo with the last parts order, so that’s standing by. I have some new rotors turning up today hopefully, will see if they make a difference.

Nah, it hasn't had an alignment yet but I don't think it's cured. ?

228XXXkm Rear end refresh. Jon at Auto38 did the work in a very timely fashion. Still needs a wheel alignment and a highway run to see if it’s cured the vibration. - Integral links - upper control arms - guide links - sway bar links - swaybar bushings - wheel carrier ball joints Bit of a mix of Lemforder, Meyle and TRW I also have put the roof racks back on to carry the bike since my desire for a wagon has been put off for a little bit longer.

Thanks @hqstu for the sandpaper ‘hot tip’

FCP euro. They have a few different kits for the job. I’d recommend doing the oil separator while you are in there too.

228,XXXkm A few things have happened. Having come so far I decided I didn't want to let the car go for less than my 7K asking price and have set about spending the money to try and get rid of the shimmy/seat vibration...which will mean I'm going to keep the car for a bit longer. Jon at Auto38 diagnosed some play in the steering box and some in the rear end. He swapped the original steering box back in which has really tightened up the front end and got rid of a weird knock at the 45 degrees mark, however the shimmy still remains. In the meantime an OEM muffler came up on FB marketplace. $60 and 2 blocks from my house. This got installed by Midas (125 + gst if anyones interested) today. Feels like a new car, so quiet and no annoying drone at 2000rpm. It didnt drone on the motorway but round town getting up to 50km it was abit annoying. The tip looks alot nicer too than the rusty pipe. Suspension parts have arrived from FCP and will be going in next week.

Nice, thanks. That’s one clean looking roof.

What roof rack is that? Does it fit without having to take the flaps off the mounting points?

couple of real tidy E36’s in Dunedin. Anyone on here?

Anyone know where this ended up?