Eagle

Yeah i probably worded that it bit wrong

Knocking turned out to be Meyle HD mounts. I had all the boot trim off, lying in boot whilst someone drove the car and you couldn't pin point where the noise was coming from, sounded like a mount noise though so i disconnected the shocks and it was gone. Not exactly sure why they failed as nothing visibly wrong with them. Car was on jack stands for a couple of week which may have contributed to it, but my Ti had a similar noise with the same mounts and replacing those solved it also. Turns out im just one of many people to have problems with them knocking after a short period, ive never had an issue with Meyle HD stuff until now. Will avoid in the future and go with more cushioned Sachs\Lemforder mounts. Tried another DME to see if that would fix my cruise control situation but no change so likely a faulty clutch module. Replacement for the lost one is supposedly on its way from UK. Faded L\H reverse light was annoying me so that's been replaced to match the other side Likely the only non OE features ill be adding to the car. Bit of insurance and security never hurts. Viofo A139 dash cams and my old Uniden R1 Mfactory Helical LSD.

A 3D print file of RHD surround is something that has to exist on the internet.

2.93 suits the 5 speed for me, maybe the 3.15 is the ideal compromise but hard to find. I'm sure it starts to become a trade off after that under normal road usage.

Yeah ive always noticed an improvement but you do tend to flush the brake fluid at the same time. Good piece of mind regardless given the low cost.

Yeah pretty much what im about to do but will get it re-checked after or send it away if it needs shimming. Hard to know if some of these people are ending with noises due to sub optimal specs or lack of proper checking, most people aren't likely to follow up\post if they messed it up

Literally got just mine. $300 in tax. Took longer to process it and deliver in NZ than it took from UK to NZ. +1 KBM but it seems hes a bit busy at the moment. Shims and pre-load checking is the real barrier to the DIY route.

Yeah post o2 sensor are just for monitoring cat health\emission related I don't think the Akebone are that bad, my whole braking system is new so that probably helps over people with old hoses etc. They just lack the feel\feedback compared to the metallics. In saying that id stick with OE as im not driving the car enough to worry about dust and prefer the OE feel. Done braided lines multiply times in the past and not really worth the premium for a normal car. Braided lines are always going to feel better coming from old original lines.

You could just throw your gearbox in and see what its like?. My old E39 ZF box had 310,000km on the original detents so its not like they all have issues. Mine current one has a slight lean\stick coming out of 5th when dead cold but ive never experienced any shifting problems. I don't think dropping the box is much of an issue if its going to save me a un-needed expense but certainly a subjective thing. If you can pickup a good used LF-20 and use the good hoses its probably going to save you a fair bit of money. If i had to rank them id say cam\ crank are probably the most common failures, followed by the MAF either hard or soft failure, most O2's have soft failed and are slow compared to new. Maybe the oil level sensors sometimes go but not really important. Never seen\heard any of the others fail and if they do its probably very rare and easy enough to ID or diagnose. Just do the pre cat O2's, no point in post cat ones (flash with EU2 DME firmware to delete them and SAP if you have them) I did VNE cam sensors and intake air temp, VDO MAF and crank sensor and Bosch O2's, basically the performance related ones. All same as originals and wouldn't use anything else myself for critical engine sensors, piece of mind they reading as intended and should have good lifespan. Running Akebono's. Don't have quite the initial bite like the OE semi metallics do but yeah much much cleaner. Havent really pushed them under hard driving though. I just used the OE coupler as OE car and set and forget. Probably get you one trade price, think it was low mid $300. Didnt find any much cheaper overseas by the time shipping etc was added.

Ive driven both in stock form and i agree about the power difference, don't think anyone is arguing on that front. Guessing the raving come from the fact that the 130i has a much lower initial cost, cheaper to run, last N\A six, not fast but not exactly struggling to perform in typical road usage. Yeah going to be exceptions but generally the N\A version of a engine is going to be cheaper to run and maintain over time given the same condition.

ECU remap and catless downpipes (technically WOF fail) are probably the best ways to gain power for the money. @promo maybe able to help you out with maps

Yeah ive got a set if want them. PM me and i maybe able to drop them off tomorrow. Pretty sure BMW never had made or listed facelift adjusters like they did for pre-facelift

2000 was still pre-facelift upto August or September iirc. Should just be listed as facelift vs pre-facelift adjusters. I think ive got some suitable facelift ones lying you can probably have.

Guaranteed to need at least some suspension work. One strut mount certainly looks like its decades old.

Don't usually give trouble, sometimes a bit of jiggling. Push and hold the white clip in while moving the line forward and back. Spot of penertrating spray may help if you think it's stuck.

Probably goes out the window when you compare repair bills too. Personally i don't see one being better than the other as they both meet different requirements.

Nice. First BMW ive seen in NZ running style 72's (besides mine)

Must be the best value 540i ive ever seen for sale. Someone will get a good deal and wont have to spend 1000's down the line for once.

Good excuse to die and tap set if you haven't got one.

She'll be right mate

NZ market for any older Mercedes has always been limited. Less popular, less vehicles\parts and less support\diy. Don't think E30's got their own rap track though.

Yeah bottom one looks raised\distorted a little on one side but its certainly not bad. Plates may do it over time but a few whacks with some 2x4 and a hammer on that side will flatten that out easy. Then you put the plates in and forget about it.

Kinda looks a little deformed on the RHS of that picture, seems to bulge up a little?. Eye level like my photo you can clearly see. You can see the black reinforcement plate in the second photo also. Your doesn't appear to have it from that photo. Engine and transmission out the front after dismantling it is by far the easiest way. A\C condenser and lines etc should have enough slack to swing out of the way once pump is unbolted and rested on something, then get it tied back to something with bungy cords.

Bit hard to tell from that angle but are the towers flat?. If someone has added reinforcement plates then the strut mounts wont be sitting hard up against the tower. Pin is just for camber adjustment. You want to broken off to adjust camber (usually max neg). Hopefully they weren't trying to compensate for any mushrooming of the towers.

It was for many when most were sub 10k cars. I only bought one because everyone was talking about them or had one, $5k '89 325i manual, why not. They were the E36\E46 of today. Aside from the speculators i reckon most buying now are mainly those missed out or sold and want to fomo back in. I still like them and drove my harder than most owners these days could of ever dream of, but id never buy another one in todays market (common view among ex E30 owners ive talked to)