Eagle

All good. Dont need the EWS wire anyway.

Damn that's bad alright, something must be really fubar. Sealant on the base and edges? Your machine shop done any work there? Installed flush is fine, maybe its not quite even or somehow damaged during install. On the bright side at least with a leak like that you can run it up on stands to see when the box is off being manual. Self adjusting clutches dont have the best feel, but if the springs aren't set properly or moved during install it would probably feel weird im guessing. Think i pm'd you about that when i sold it to you?. You will have to reset it now anyway since you are taking off the flywheel. Hope you got a big 3 jaw.

Foam in the RHS lower bolster was starting to cave in at the top. Many SR seats use the same piece and its easily available from the Capital Seating in the UK for ~$160. Very little effort and straight forward to replace so why not. The SR3 seems to be getting more comfortable so im sticking with it for now. Will try it again on some 1hr+ drives.

It did occur to me that some woman logic may be on display, but i thought it may simply be a case of needing some re-education on peak BMW design.

If it has a plastic head on then give it a try.

Does she need glasses? They almost look the same.

What does on its way out mean? If the actual pump is dying then you'd need a good 2nd hand or new one, the rebuild kits are just seals.

Likely wiring. Had a similar issue myself with the pin 7 wire. If its not showing in INPA no cruise and rev hang are expected.

Maybe try re-align the EWS then, may of gone out sync. Seems odd the module or key would suddenly fail given you had it running all good before swapping?

ABS rhythmically clicking when ignition on is normal

Yeah you are right the ABS wont cause starting issues. The EU2 flash shouldn't have the idiot feature present 'aka clutch in to start', that's was for dumb American's at the time. There is a menu in BM scanner 1.4 (EWS reprogramming i think) which should have a no clutch option you can change to (may already be on it) Im not sure BM scanner worked for me when showing clutch switch activation. What does INPA say in MS43. Shadow codes can be ignored. Most cars seem to have some present. I don't think you would of missed anything but maybe recheck all the grounds are present and tight, starter cables etc. Guessing cleared adaptions? I have a spare DME with no EWS if you get stuck

Got the cover panel installed. Went to Mosen's here in Hamilton and Kerry let me cut it out. Wasn't easy getting a cutting it out with a clean cut, there are spot and mig welds along the edge and tools weren't the best for job. I also had to cut it in half and joint in when welding it in. I thought id try one of those air nibblers which are good as they don't distort the metal, not the most precise\neat things for trimming edges so i messed up cut too much off in some spots. When it's seam sealed and hidden it's not a big deal given its only a cosmetic panel. Sedan\touring have strenthening? indentations on the ends, coupe panels dont. If i had to do it all again i dont think id bother with the rear brace, im not convinced the benefit is worth the labour for this car. The front brace and the rear chassis legs are much less invasive to prep and install and fix the issue especially weaker fronts. You do see evidence of the front brace from the boot (trim raised due to spare) but if you have the liner then its basically hidden

Extensive service history.........yep.

Yeah CMP are the cheapest on market too. Hopefully they back in stock when you want them.

Yeah once the solid subframe mounts are in its done in suspension dept. Besides better dampers, i can't think any other tweaks that will yield much of an increase without deviating too much from the factory ride and needing certs. Custom springs & dampers to dial it in to suit would be great, but the cost wouldn't be worth it for a car like this. TRW's perform decent on these springs and are that cheap that you can replace them every 50,000km.

Front end finished up with poor man camber\caster plates aka E36 M3 Evo strut mounts. Certainly nothing new about these for E36's, not much info about using them on E46's apart from being the same fitment. Unfortunately the OE and OEM brands now appear to be NLA, so its either a genuine set at around $600 or one of the numerous aftermarket Taiwanese brands for around the <$200. I went with these B&E ones from Amazon and Rockauto. Doesn't appear to be much different between them apart from the bearing design and i think the prices reflects this. They are probably all made in the same factory. These mounts are firmer with less rubber isolation and you feel it over certain bumps. Height wise are 5-10mm lower than my previous Lemforder mounts so more inline with the original OE design i think. The studs are also obviously longer which is good if you are installing a strut brace. I did have some slight rubbing of the spring on RH strut tower, the spring was rubbing seam sealer when the wheel was turned in a certain spot, but that has cleared up after some use. E36's appear to have a bit more room in the towers when comparing with my Ti. I originally had them swapped left to right (more camber over castor) but ended up with too much camber for street usage, was something around -3-3.5° total according to my diy gauge. Installing them normally yielded an additional around ~-0.8° of camber and ~2.5° of castor. I had the Z4M FCAB's still installed so ended up with 8.4° of castor. Not worth going into too much detail on it, but the weight jacking along with the vastly increased steering effort was dangerous in certain corners and at high speeds. I swapped back to Meyle HD bushings to bring it back down to degrees 7.5°. Having tried all the castor ranges from 5-8° this feels to the best in my setup (the M3 runs 6.5-7.5 i believe). No obvious extra steering input needed and combined with the extra camber for front turn in\grip, the car is now very close to neutral in the tighter corners. I picked up at least an extra 10kph on my test corners and around about with very little understeer compared to my previous settings. I dont know it would be like without the other mods ive done, but its a massive different in grip\turn in for very low cost. The camber settings below are maxed out front and rear on Eibach's. You should be able add back ~+0.7 front camber via strut slots, which puts you around -1.0 degrees depending on your spring choice. I don't see any real disadvantage of running this amount for improved handling if your toe is around 0. Tyre choice and how you drive the car will probably dictate whether you should run it these or not. CMP Monoballs - I've done over 100km on all sorts of crappy NZ B-roads and these are exactly as advertised. Rear end now much more stable\planted\composed, it does not jitter around noticeably and bump steer is reduced on all road surfaces. With my current setup i can now counter steer mid corner without the feeling like its loosing grip. On smooth seal at high speeds its a similar feeling. The extra camber, castor and chassis braces have probably helped to a degree but i think its mostly the new RTAB's at work here. They certainly are controlling the rear alignment like they claim to do. Even quite noticeable under normal road road driving, much more relaxing with less steering wheel movement. Long service life and much easier to bolt up the trailing arm bracket with no preload or alignment make these i must have IMO. They are expensive for what they are but you are getting good benefits for a few hundred. Makes me wonder why BMW didnt use them in the CSL. Only disadvantage which is widely reported is driving over sharp bumps - square seal patch edges, reflectors, sharp curbs etc produces a rear end whack\thump similar to stiff bushings. May not be the best mod if you driving a lot on crappy roads or want max comfort\quiet, but the benefits easily outweigh that.

It did look very familiar. Yeah would be interested to see how it holds up. The ceramic pads certainly help keep the calipers much cleaner in my car.

I thinking around 4k. Basically a rolling manual conversion given everything else is probably very tired.

Downsides are their power claims.. Given your engine is basically 'new' (not sure about about all new sensors etc) they should be willing offer you a rebate of some sorts if the before and dynos are way off. I know they likely wont because as they say all their original tuning was done using a dyno.

Going to be using your spare exhaust system for mods ? Not sure secondary cats would be worth that much unless prices have gone a lot in recent times?. I scrapped a set of primary M54B30 in late 2020 for around $170-180 iirc. Those power claims do seem very bold. Personally don't think its worth spending that kind of money on a tune unless you have done other mods. They don't dyno either, so id want to do a before and after which would add more cost.

Catted manifolds are pricks. Least its all easy stuff now to fire it up.

Least you know where you at now Damage from jacking without wood etc block?. Yeah it appears to be. You could probably hear, feel or smell it but could also spray bottle some water to confirm.

Had a loud creaking from the rear that randomly started after 1000km when i installed new Lemforder lower arms and joints. Was intermittent and only really heard on low speed bumps and jacking up the car. Traced it to lower joint on one side so i sprayed some WD40 into the rubber boot and it was gone, figured it must be a bad joint and replaced it, then the other side started doing the same thing. Only thing left to fault was the new arms, i replaced one side to confirm and then the other. First time ive had issues with Lemforder stuff. Not sure what exactly what was causing the noise. Arm itself measured roughly the same, but the bushing appears to be a different design with a chamfered face. Could be the wrong bushing or some sort of manufacturing defect somewhere. Im curious so might try to remove these ones and install my OE Lemforder spares, doesn't matter if i damage the arm at this point. Lemforder 2511401 arm from Spareto. Made in Poland. Original bushing

Yeah pretty much the same as me. I think you'd have to at least take the diff to someone to have the backlash measured before buying it. As you know the E9X & E8X diffs are rubbish, so finding a good one these days might be hard.

Did you have any vibrations before hand? What are brand are the mounts? Ive had new OEM engine mounts cause vibrations that weren't there previously, so its possible. Is transmission crossmember parallel and not at a poor angle? Should sit so the driveshaft looks straight from the transmission to the rear looking at it from the bottom. I dont remember what the E30 crossmember looks like but there is usually some adjustment. I guess its possible you upset the flex disc depending on how you jacked it, if its old it may of stretched\cracked. I usually jack up the transmission from the rear just in front of the cross member with some wood, just so its just touching, undo the bolts then it lower it down to get access. Transmission nuts are 43-48nm according to E30 Bentley, wouldn't be easy the do that with a standard ring spanner under the car. Maybe a bit of a pita if you re-install the old mounts, maybe one set at a time and re-test, at least it will eliminate the new stuff (once all the other checks are done)