Eagle

An actual cooling system refresh - all hoses with new clamps and new fans blades to boot. Ive never replaced so many parts at once.

Pretty sure the loom is completely different on the ZF and why no one swaps them in.

Yep. No one can advise you on your problem accurately over the internet, even we could you don't have the ability to do any checks or repairs yourself. The transmission may already be too far gone if its slipping and a service may not fix anything. It may stay the same for 2000km or 10km, we can't know. Its up to you whether you want to do risk driving it or not. Take to a workshop if you care about it or take a gamble and drive it. The NZ comment was in regards to the cars value, i have no idea where you are or what a car like that costs, but here its a $2000 or less car so not worth fixing if something like a transmission fails. Its a poor choice of car for reliability and they don't tend to be looked after either. Preventative servicing is critical to avoid problems, transmissions can be working fine one day and give you problems the next.

Depends how much you care about the car. Ideally you would stop driving it and find out what causing it. A car like that in NZ you'd drive it home, because if it is the transmission the repair is worth more than the cars value.

Technically load the engine slightly but probably wont account for very much

Dont think anyone could really answer that question. Obviously its not idea but it's leaking bad enough that you shouldn't have to idle it for very long at all. Flicking the A\C on, having good lighting and viewing angles to spot the source quickly would be all id do. A mirror maybe helpful for checking the crank sensor are.

So you are trying to say you think the transmission is slipping? Could also be an engine problem. I dont think anyone is going to be able to diagnose it over the internet in a situation like this. You'd probably need a workshop to look at it because you can't really do or check much without the car off the ground, you'll also need tools and a scanner even for a basic checks.

buckets= brackets?. I fitted a set of Driftec ones to my mates car they gave him a huge amount of toe in, around 10mm iirc Seen many high end race cars use these: https://www.mk-motorsportteile.de/en/p/bumpsteer-camber-und-rollcentrum-correktion-kit-e36-e46-wtcc

Sold my E34 set for $1800 in 2018 which took awhile. Would be interesting to know what they are actually worth these days. Had lots of interest in them from the US, but even shipping quotes back then were way too high.

Scrap dealers will take it, i got $10 for my E39 one. Yeah i thought about that UV dye too, haven't really heard of anyone using it in the NZ. With a leak like yours im not sure you will even need it with the transmission out.

You are right, it is a Conti\VDO one from Spareto. Yeah a steel plate could work too but more work i agree. All M4X\M5X engines use the same bell housing pattern iirc, but someone else would know for sure.

Could be a hairline crack in the plastic. I have a new OE VNE one if it's indeed one of the issues. Some on facebook or wreckers may have a stuffed one. Pickup a part would have to sell you the whole box wouldn't they?

No. Haven't started the car but given the cig lighter is constant 12V it stays on or off regardless of ignition key position, just like a normal toggle switch.

Has the oil been wiped away in that crankshaft sensor photo? Those o-rings hold the sensors in pretty well even without the bolt, you oil'd everything up im guessing when installing. You can generally reuse the new o-rings if they were lubed well. If i was were me id locate stuffed auto transmission, cut the bell housing at the front so it turns into an adaptor plate or half an adapter plate, bolt it up then mount the flywheel and starter. At least then will have an idea of where to look before ripping it all apart. Should be able to see exactly what area it is without the transmission in the way.

Aliexpress USB charging. Cheapest mod yet at $10. Not something you need often but handy when you do. Dremeled out the cig lighter hole and filled down the + terminal so i can use the OE plug. Nice and stealth and can be switched off and on. ATE handbrake shoes and hardware. Heard a slight drag on L\R when the boot rim was off when the wheel rotates to a certain spot. Could be the the disc but thought id replace them first since they are cheap. Will have to bed them in at some point and recheck the noise.

Purple tag rack feels so good in these

Im got the manifold off on @hunter E39 atm so i took a look. The recess below the crank sensor is concave and slanted towards the rear, i sprayed brake cleaner into it and worked it way down the rear oil pan bolts\engine casting out the middle of the bellhousing.

Well that sucks. As you said its hard to diagnose in that area and you've had so much work done. Guess the problem is now that you were certain it was the real main seal you removed the box, as you say you can't start the engine (was thinking starter bolts to engine for some dumb reason). Bore scope come in very handy for situations like these, but i think could still visually check it with the right angle, maybe with some stuff removed. Oil pool under the crankshaft sensor i would say coming from that, dont see how that much oil could get there if you can feel anything from obvious from above. Oil does tend to wick a little so that may explain the small amount on the on the bell housing plate. You might be right about multiple leaks. As you say it could be a machining issue or a gasket failure. I id think start with the crank sensor since that the easiest and make sure no other external leaks from above. It that checks out then it has to be something to do with the gasket or seal surface around that pan area (engine out job i would assume)

Cleaned then checked for straightness is the standard procedure.

I think you may of misread the rear size

Speed cameras have proven very profitable for minimal setup costs, you can keep lowering the tolerance for more revenue safety when the road toll doesn't meet your expectations. Gotta start paying back all that new national debt somehow. Amazing what a govt can achieve under the guise of 'safety'.

Yeah the E85\E86 shares subframes etc with the E46.

Yeah im already running the 25mm Z4 front bar and 19mm rear. Nice subtle tweak.

As i found out they messed with the sizes on the sedans and coupes around April '01. Everything incl msport went 23.5\18mm.

Did you use the early msport swaybars? 24mm front and 19mm rear