Eagle

Yeah imports tend to be better optioned.

PDC=Parking sensors. Very rare option on E34.

Very unlikely to sell for 8k, its probably been re-listed many times. Even the 4k one has been for sale for months. Mileage doesn't mean much given the age of these cars, its all about condition at this point. A higher k looked after example is usually the better buy than a average low k's one which are mostly on old original parts ie: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/540i/listing/3729330877. Its fairly common for these engines to have over 300,000km on them because they don't have any major issues. NZ new examples tend to have the more fresher engines in my experience and have less emissions gear too. The main value your car has above others is the wheels. I doubt a serious buyer is going to care too much about an audio system.

Those bolts are pretty common. Sure ive got plenty around if you can find anything local.

I find NZ inconsistent when i comes to pricing. Certain products are heavily marked up while others are similar price or appear even cheaper than overseas.

Those BBS wheels maybe worth a bit to someone if you sold separate Not wrong really. They are much cheaper to fix up than the newer models but they are old and most are on worn out parts (esp suspension side)

Photos would be good but most average around 4-6k asking. Dont think they would offer you much on a tradein with a car like this - not very popular or sort after so hard to sell

Yeah good on him. I believe i met him at the Taupo track day you organized back in the day.

Who knows really. You gonna get low ball offers (or reasonable offers) at any price range i reckon. Extreme pricing just seems evoke Q&A a mess on trademe.

Are you planning on getting rid of the wood trim?. I reckon silver or some black would suit those gauges much better.

Way overpriced. Get the OE one - cheaper and better quality. https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1958772-new?product=11537510959

and when that all fails you can always fall back on the classic noddy line "Won't be re-listing\keeping it if it doesn't sell"

Looks very tidy

Cant go wrong with OE stuff but id probably skip the bolts though. You'd definitely want to add trailing arm bushings to that list given they take the most abuse. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-trailing-arm-bushing-outer-e36-e46-33326770786 and limiters https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-trailing-arm-bushing-reinforcement-spacer-set-093031010 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-trailing-arm-ball-joint-e36-e46-33326775551 - You can use 2x of these for rear outer and lower(upgrade used by M3's) instead of https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-trailing-arm-bushing-outer-e36-e46-33321136311 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-rear-lower-inner-oem-33326770824l & https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-rear-upper-e36-e46-oem-33321092247 - Don't think these really wear that much and aren't easy to do. First bushings are very hard to press in\out without correct gear. Second ones may require the diff to be lowered on L\H side and are bit of a pain to torque (E46 anyway, not sure on E36) You could also do the subframe bushings and have the trailing arm and subframe reinforcements welded in if you really wanted to be thorough

Full suspension refresh - struts, rubber bushings, mounts and control arms would likely yield a good improvement in handling and stability - many of these cars are still rolling on mostly original tired parts. New shifter bushings along with E60 short shifter and ZHP knob would improve the shift and gets rid of the long throw. M-sport body kits for these are getting expensive and hard to find in good condition these days (esp the front bumpers $500+). Should be able find a set of angle eye headlights for around $300-$400 mark. Wouldn't bother with a strut brace myself for a car like this. Makes it annoying to work on engine also. I made a thread about my old 530i i converted to manual. Maybe of some interest if you havent seen it. Sold most of the parts now though but have 2x sets of near new OE engines mounts if you are after a pair for cheap

Right. A leakdown test should answer the question anyway. Hopefully you get lucky and its not a valve problem but sounds like its been neglected.

Diff back and installed. Never used a helical but you certainly notice the rear end pushing and wanting rotate more freely, even on low speed corners. Breaks traction nicely too and very easy to control. Probably re-program the DSC with M-track settings to optimize it. Bad news is there was some wear some on crown wheel and pinion which meant backlash couldn't be adjusted to spec without the gear pattern being off. Certainly the classic thump\vibration due to this when engaging first and shifting in the lower gears. Old diff was very tight and quiet compared to this one, so i hindsight i would of used that. Will have to live with it for the time being and maybe try some heavier oil after break in (Recommend Toreco oil is thin). Will keep my old unit to swap out incase i get sick of it. Got rid of the crappy cup holders too and made some usable space

Stuck ring maybe

Yeah hard to diagnose these things without tools and ability to get car in air. Did they take the tray off?

You really need to have the cooling system pressure tested to see exactly where it's coming from

Whats the '/Z' suppose to designate on the license label?

You want to Penrite green which is BMW spec, that blue coolant isnt (colour not always accurate). You dont want really want to mix anything if its running the BMW blue stuff. Id just add water until you get the leak fixed. Running diluted coolant or water for a short period isn't going to do any harm. Then you can either re-fill with BMW blue coolant or flush the system and switch to Penrite green etc which is far cheaper and works fine. https://penriteoil.com.au/products/green-oem-coolant-concentrate

Ended up buying a spare 2.93 diff to remove the bearings and swap the center into. Should be able to sell my old unit once this one is in. Needed a decent puller to get the bearings off and no lip for the puller to grab on one end (i carefully die grinded one). All went back together fine but unfortunately the backlash increased from 0.11 to 0.22 after re-assembly. Good news is its going up to KBM to get re-shimmed so shouldn't have any issues once its back in.

I find it helps soften dirt to some degree if you follow up with the water blaster. Works well to spray diluted cleaning products on houses, caravans etc.

But i bet it has key in ignition beep when door driver door open. Such a life saving feature, those jappas were ahead of their time on that one.