Eagle

Lemforder\Sachs are OE and redesigned them at some point. Im not sure if OE Genuine BMW ones are the original design(would think so) or they changed those as well, either way they probably cost $$$. Possibly other aftermarket brands like Meyle, Febi, etc use the original design\molds, hard to tell unless you see the actual product. If i come across OE E46 mounts i will compare the height to my Z4 ones, they certainly have less rubber and a thicker metal top than my current Lemforders. Best option would be like i did and Z4 ones if you want guaranteed lowering -https://spareto.com/products/febi-bilstein-top-strut-mounting/45059. You can get genuine BMW Z4 ones too but they are very expensive. Not much info or pictures on people fitting them so who knows how all 3 compare in ride height.

A co-worker seems to love his Terrano with the QD32 engine. Just convinced another co-worker to buy one for 4k, mainly for off road use so assume they tow ok.

Came across a post discussing E46 ride height - turns out the OE Lemforder\Sachs mounts are actually different design to the originals and are taller. When replacing mine i had noted it but assumed it was all due to wear. Now knowing why my front end was sitting a bit higher (factoring in the reinforcement plates) i ordered a set of Eibach Pro-kit springs - black, slightly lower and firmer than OE sport springs. Also got a pair of Z4 strut mounts(not installed) which are shorter and give an additional ~10mm drop over OE ones if i need be. Its pretty subtle compared to before but exactly what i was after - ~10mm drop in front & ~7 mm rear. Don't expect any additional settling in drop but will see.

DSC gets recoded to M3 CSL settings which tells the DSC the car it has a LSD and disables the e-diff, then adjusting the parameters allows higher slip limits before intervening. Its mostly for stage 2\single press of DSC button which mimics M-track mode. DSC works as normal otherwise. Pistons looks ok to me. Ive polished up and re-used much worse. Guessing they weren't leaking or binding before you took them out?.

Mfactory helical is money well spent and works very well with reprogrammed DSC, would be hard going back to the open diff. Only problem is the factory seats feel like the weak point even more so now.

You going to be waiting for the Chinese one to turn up anyway and how long that takes is anyone guess?. Id sooner borrow one or buy a second hand one local if i was going parts cannon route. Personally i dont like doing jobs twice so i wouldn't bother to save a such a small amount and waste my time, each to their own.

One data point. No reputable business in the trade etc would fit one for reasons above.

Nice. I'm looking to book one in October.

You can the OE VDO crank sensor from Spareto for $133 shipped via DHL. Putting a $15 aliexpress special sounds stupid given you can't trust it and the time\effort involved to swap it.

Yeah they would have to be pretty worn. Ive done a guide tube once but that was more my ocd rather than performance issue

Input and output are viton seals I think and rarely leak.

Looking good. Did you do the selector shaft seal? They always seem to leak at some point

Track days still going. Never been on that track so i thought id better get one or maybe 2 in before its gone.

Another dreamer

Provides evidence of that in the fog light shot

I'd be checking the wheel offset and Tyre size and compare it to OE wheels and Tyre measurements. Also check the alignment to see how much camber you are running, more may help. Fitting different springs is bit of a gamble and you are likely needing to do front and back with most kits. Ideally you'd also have to replace struts to match new springs and originals are probably worn to some degree anyway.

Light work that needs precision and control they are much better than a die grinder.

Even got an audience

Bold claims when you still using a shift knob that looks as bad as that.

Not a VW\Audi exclusive these days. Heard\seen a many 3 series running those 'tuned ecus"

Wouldn't think it would be a issue either but yeah looks rugged like someone(maybe apprentice?) used the wrong abrasive. You could probably tidy it up with a sanding block and some high grit wet and dry sandpaper

As you suggest the rubbing over bumps is probably due to wheels - tyre size and offset are important to avoid issues. Where are they rubbing?

Not necessarily a bad thing. On top on M problems you got all the usual wear items eg suspension which have M tax too. I think many buyers of these older cars can't afford to refresh them properly increasing their reliability and performance. They just end up driving them frugally them hoping nothing goes wrong in their typically short ownership.

Yeah bar comes straight down as is pretty much level with the base of the rack (lines sit about 1 inch lower). Approx 115mm from front rounded edge in center of rack to rear of sway bar

Can have a look tomorrow if you haven't got it sorted already