Eagle

Could just been a failed coil but if you have the 330i it seems pointless not driving that. Yeah i thought so too but wasn't going to say anything hehe. Too bad you are so far away, otherwise id certainly offer you a hand.

Thanks. I think ive spent close to what i paid for it on parts now haha.

Various wire wheels on big corded drill, more powerful drill with higher rpm yields best results. I think i spent about 20-30 mins on it to get the majority off but it wasn't an OCD clean by any means.

Mostly back together. Very easy to get the box in compared to that horrible SSG. Even the clutch line wasn't as bad as i expected. Quick start to check coding, gearbox and clutch which appear working well. Just need to get the driveshaft re-balanced with the new front half and CV joint before i can drive. The guy didn't include the shifter foam and boot so will have to wait for him to find one a boot or get new. Looks like of those done on the cheap conversions but at least i can still use it. Long 1\2" extension and wobble extension recommended. Makes the job much easier and less likely to round heads off (24" and 10" pictured)

Yeah as you got some basic tools, jack and axles stand etc its probably better to do it at your residence. Im <10min to Cambridge. Send me a PM and can sort it out.

To rule out anything sway bar related you can disconnect or remove the links and go for a slow drive. If its still there its not that.

Right. I think id rather take the exhaust and turbo off, less chance of damaging anything or running into issues, unless you are replacing other stuff while you are there. I can give you hand if you want.

What route of removal were you thinking of taking?

I saw yours attached in photos Yeah it was there as he showed me a photo, It obviously fell off, they aren't exactly secured well to handle shipping. To his credit he is going to try and find me one. Yeah im using Bosch EV1 plugs for my reverse light adapters then running a pair of wires direct to plug in a sleeve. Plugs into existing SSG reverse harness plug which is already wired correctly so everything should work as before.

Couple of months ago a thought i try the 'super sport' mode on the SSG, which is said to be like M3 S3\S4 shifting speeds. Shifted good\hard and managed few shifts before loosing all drive after a shift to 3rd gear. Luckily i was only 1km from home so easy towed. Thought maybe the SAC pressure plate or clutch cylinder had failed somehow as it appeared to still be trying to disengagement the clutch. Upon gearbox removal i found the splined clutch disc center had play and was spinning freely turning into a wheel bearing. Pressure plate appeared fine and id say the gearbox itself is ok but hard to tell with SMG given you can't feel anything. Decided an actual manual conversion is the best way forward. 20220508_115358.mp4 Ended up going via @Vass contact. Cost about the same as his if i didnt mess up the currency conversion. It didnt incl the rear section driveshaft, diff, flywheel\clutch, so not the best deal but not the worst. Fast forward about 6 weeks it turns up but like @Vass experienced with crate damaged, gearbox nearly falling out and missing clutch module and wiring (probably fell out bottom on crate). Disappointing given its easy stuff to package correctly with some effort. Probably wouldn't recommend him to anyone unless you cant find a conversion for 4k (he doesnt ship rear sections of driveshaft now either). He is trustworthy and has good communication but probably better than pay a bit more here unless you can get cheap shipping. The 5 speed SMG even easier than an auto to convert and can be converted back very easy if need be. I dont plan to ever sell the car with what ive spent on it so its probably not really an issue. No wiring will be cut and will have adaptors for clutch module\brake switch side and reverse lights. Some coding just to get rid of the gear cog indicator. Got most of the new bits ready to do the conversion so should have it done in a few weeks once some final parts show up and i order i new module. While i was waiting i put in a new ATE brake booster and rubber hose\pump (small leaks from both) and replaced the master cylinder whilst it was out with a FTE one. Finally found new O2 sensors from Spareto and installed them.

At your k's and age If the engine hasnt been opened then i wouldnt be shocked.

E46 M3's have far high production numbers than M5 too, so id expect the M5 to outpace the M3 value as time goes on.

They eventually replied to my email request today after 6 days. They are cancelling the other items and supposedly shipping the rest today. Will see how long that takes them.

Most of the order wasn't in stock and has been received within 2 weeks. No excuse for zero communication in this situation.

Schmiedmann. I vaguely recall a forum member mentioned ordering items that weren't in stock from these guys. Coming up on 3 weeks and still a couple of parts that haven't arrived in their depot to be shipping. No contact from them what so ever after multiply emails sent within a week. Never had an issue like this in all my years of ordering parts from various sources. First time my life im trying a charge back tomorrow before its too late. **** these guys.

Closest thing to that would be a c hook spanner eg https://mytools.co.nz/products/c-hook-wrenches-19-51mm?_pos=6&_sid=c25d51748&_ss=r

Nice. Ive come very close to buying one of few times. The fuel cost didn't put me off but the many big $ sudden failure items did though.

Group the runs Taupo and Hampton track days require you to have full wannabe race driver kit for a track day.

Very unlikely to not have any issues (unless someone has spent lots and lots of money on it in). Id say oil leaks and vacuum leaks are most common issue, but its a 20 year old car so lots of parts may not have failed outright but are very tried if they haven't been replaced at some point - Cooling system(thermostats have usually soft failed and you can use OBD to check operating temp), pcv system (vacuum leaks and added oil consumption), intake boots\hoses cracking, worn engine\gearbox mounts, suspension bushings, struts\shocks\mounts\bump stops(very common), DISA valve (vacuum leak or rattling), vanos seals, drivebelt pulleys, brake rotors etc etc. Basically everything at this point in time but depends on what sort of mechanical standard\reliability you are wanting from the car. You'd want to check all the fluid and filter conditions at the bare min to give you an idea if its been somewhat looked after. These transmissions also have torque convertor faults so ideally it would have had a transmission fluid and filter change at some point. If not you'd want to do one asap if buying it. You can check the subframe if you really want to. You can get your head under the L\R, clean up and check the crease without jacking the car up iirc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaTYBaMpUtE

Yeah that what happened to my first BMW E34. Some drunk cuzzy in a ute rear ended it with bull bars, riding up on the towbar bending the rear boot floor and panel. Write off given the car was only worth about 5k at the time.

Certainly the PS high pressure line to some extent. I don't think ive seen one that doesn't sweat oil at least a little bit. IIRC they are very expensive being RHD specific.

and in typical capitalist fashion basically no punishment all those companies.

Don't think id bother myself. 60,000km on a clutch is nothing under normal use. From what i see no one seems to besides Valeo appears to do a stock standalone sprung clutch for a single mass flywheel.

Yeah that sucks. Since you rebuilding it anyway the B25 head sounds like the best option. As you say the market for a stuffed B25 is basically no one so its scrap anyway. Even good B25's aren't really wanted as far as i know, just the B28 & B30 for the swaps.

At least it will make your E34 look like a Corolla in maintenance costs