Eagle

I don't like Windows 10 all that much but nothing hard or greatly unreliable about for a usability point I agree that buying Apple products is like buying a new BMW - overpriced, only want authorized dealership working on it, will try to sell you a new one if it fails\becomes obsolete outside the warranty period Apple products do have advantages but they will always cost you more in the long term

At least its just about down to routine servicing with the big bills have paid Who did the transmission work?

Cant recall if mine worked after, it well have. One of those features ive never used anyway.

I've got a few different types but depends on the car. I use the traditional 2 twin hook ones the most as they offer best clearance around strut hats.

Front bushings. You may be off replacing the whole arm long term though. If the ball joint fails on your new bushings then you are going to be buying a whole new arm. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bushing-kit-e81-e90-e65-e66-meyle-31120304308my https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-assembly-front-left-front-31126769797my https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-front-right-front-e88-e89-e90-e91-31126769798my If you running without required hub rings then thats likely your issue

Never had one in my old car. Just set mine to manual mode and adjusted them with the level control on 0.

Code may well be the same but its not translating it properly to the specific vehicle. It shows correctly correctly on other vin decoders.

DPF=no cat convertor. Decoder must of translated wrong as option code is correct.

Depends what state of the engine is in. I usually end up going over the whole ignition and fuel system which usually helps - New plugs, filters, distrubutor, rotor, valve and afm track adjustment, clean injectors, sometimes a set a leads followed some high rpm runs. My old NZ 535is with 330,000 on the clock dyno'd 127kw atw on Torque performance dyno in Auckland. While they don't have that low down pull compared to M\N5X stuff with variable manifold and valve timing tech, i still think they still perform well given how old the engine design is. Sounds like someone has spent some $ on the suspension which is always a good sign.

Should look quite tidy once that front bumper is repaired and painted. E34's hold up quite well. Its a legit NZ 535iS spec so has all the usual options

Ive had mine for about that also. De-lidded running 4,5ghz @ 1.16V but it can do 4.8-4.9ghz iirc. Yeah waiting for pricing to settle is always the best move in my book unless you actually need a new PC. Never actually bought a Intel cpu new so its great AMD have stepped up their game these last few years.

If he's spent that sort of money on it then you'd think he's addressed many of the common failure points and more. To me the main issue with the average 335i on sale here in NZ is lack preemptive repairs; most have next to no service history and are likely on many original parts given the age and k's.

Ive got a ACS front lip off my old car you can have if you like, it's painted in Orient as well but got a crack in the fibreglass repair the PO did. I can probably drop it off when i go upto Auckland.

Both

Brand new Rear Sachs 556-882 msport shocks for E36's (excl Ti) and E46's

Yeah sorry about that jinx

Never bought into the whole 'shouldn't sold of because they are worth x amount now', too many shortcomings I view the situation as 'should of owned one because they were cheap and readily available at a time you could afford one'

Basically a parts car given its condition

Asking and market are 2 different things though. Who has actual data of what they are actually worth\selling for, safe to assume its not the asking prices most of the time otherwise they would of sold quick. I can only speculate how some sellers come up with an asking price.

E36 Ti is 1\2 an E30 and imo aren't that far off the actual driving experience (one of the main reason i and many bought an E30 in the first place) IF 318i's are actually selling for the asking prices then i can only assume the buyers are degenerate fans or people buying as an investment rather than actually use, maybe both. Vast majority ive seen for sale ive seen have had the bare min amount of work done to meet WOF standards etc, but want top dollar for their worn peasant spec car.

Far better off with tidy E36 318ti than tidy E30 318i, they are better in most aspects besides looks and for a 9k+ saving im sure its easily gotten over.

No surprise on the shocks etc, usually neglected even in good examples. Yep E34 steering is quite decent for a box with good feedback once you it get off center.

Is this one of three Technoviolet 540is in NZ or is there more? @Herbmiester new one, Simon's ex one - NZ new, grey leather 400,000km+ and yours? To me these spec E34's 540i's the closest thing BMW built to a traditional muscle car.

Appears to be a decent buy as long you are prepared to throw some money at it to make it reliable. Probably still on many original parts and fluids and it looks like its just hasn't been used much since coming to NZ (good and bad).

Cams likely identical being B35, they only had one spec for those engines iirc. If you swap valvetrain over to the old head you'd want to do the rocker arms and prob the valves etc also as they have matched wear profiles with the camshaft etc.