euroriffic 607 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Is it a genuine sensor sourced by chassis # Is one from Milland so should be of reputable quality. Topran one I'm guessing. Would a dirty trigger wheel stop it picking up? Just because the oil was pretty lumpy they was in it but thought I had cleaned it all up pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Was the engine disassembled at all? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Was the engine disassembled at all? Unsure. Was like that since I got it. Had a broke auto so undrivable untill I put manual in it and always ran bad. Did vanos seals but no difference Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Unsure. Was like that since I got it. Had a broke auto so undrivable untill I put manual in it and always ran bad. Did vanos seals but no difference Check the cam trigger is correctly aligned. Can't remember if the M5x trigger wheels can be reinstalled incorrectly or not. If the HG has been done theres a chance they could have got it wrong. Have got half an idea that the Siemens controlled cars changed to hall sensors - if you've been supplied an M50 type VR sensor that could well be the problem? Long shots but worth checking anyways Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 Check the cam trigger is correctly aligned. Can't remember if the M5x trigger wheels can be reinstalled incorrectly or not. If the HG has been done theres a chance they could have got it wrong. Have got half an idea that the Siemens controlled cars changed to hall sensors - if you've been supplied an M50 type VR sensor that could well be the problem? Long shots but worth checking anyways The Siemens sensor that was pulled out has the same part number as the new one so should be the right one. Think they were checking trigger wheel position yesterday/today so hopefully they can make something of that Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted February 4, 2016 I bought one of those Topran sensors of him once, Crank sensor for an m52. They aren't OEM, but they are an aftermarket OEM replacement, like any other brand, but not made in China. Mine lasted for a month then just stopped working stranding me out of town too. He was nice enough to replace it for me with an OEM Siemens sensor though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 607 Report post Posted February 5, 2016 I bought one of those Topran sensors of him once, Crank sensor for an m52. They aren't OEM, but they are an aftermarket OEM replacement, like any other brand, but not made in China. Mine lasted for a month then just stopped working stranding me out of town too. He was nice enough to replace it for me with an OEM Siemens sensor though. Hopefully it's not the sensor that's at fault now then. Have back to me today saying that the think it's the vanos that's causing the issue as its ment to have 8mm of motion but only has 4, so need to remove it and reposition or something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terroth 5 Report post Posted February 5, 2016 One issue to the next for me. I have a video of a particularly loud and strange noise coming directly from the oil pan / bottom of the block on my M20B25, but it is loudest around the Oil Pan when under the car. It occurs after 1.5k RPM specifically, and am unsure for how much further up the RPM Range. I've got the car booked into Eurorec next week for a checkup on some particularly annoying sounds including this one, but I'd like to go into this with some more information as to what the f**k is going on. You'll hear it kick in at 0.4 Seconds into the video and drop out at 13 when closing the throttle. Fresh oil change using 5W-40 Penrite just 3 days ago. https://vid.me/tmxd Cheers for any help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted February 8, 2016 what do people use for coolant/antifreeze? im thinking of picking up a bottle of the bmw coolant and mixing 50/50 with distilled water. is that the general/best thing to do? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted February 9, 2016 what do people use for coolant/antifreeze? im thinking of picking up a bottle of the bmw coolant and mixing 50/50 with distilled water. is that the general/best thing to do? cheers I run 33%, doesn't get cold enough here to justify the higher concentration. Am about to use the blue Castrol stuff on the next coolant flush in the E36, new hoses and no pesky plastic bits in the system so should be good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 what do people use for coolant/antifreeze? im thinking of picking up a bottle of the bmw coolant and mixing 50/50 with distilled water. is that the general/best thing to do? cheers I use the BMW stuff, its not that expensive and it has mixing ratios on the bottle! I don't think you need 50/50 in our climate but it wont hurt. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 10, 2016 what do people use for coolant/antifreeze? im thinking of picking up a bottle of the bmw coolant and mixing 50/50 with distilled water. is that the general/best thing to do? cheers If it's for the E91 you have to use genuine coolant for the electric water pump (pump lubrication). There is also a special bleeding procedure that sometimes will only work when using a scanner to activate the water pump. Do not run the pump dry. The venting (bleeding) process must be carried out correctly. We would use 3 X 1.5L bottles when draining and refilling. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 If it's for the E91 you have to use genuine coolant for the electric water pump (pump lubrication). There is also a special bleeding procedure that sometimes will only work when using a scanner to activate the water pump. Do not run the pump dry. The venting (bleeding) process must be carried out correctly. We would use 3 X 1.5L bottles when draining and refilling. Will be doing the waterpump and thermostat on the E46 not the E91. Will go pick up a gallon bottle from the stealers unless someone else has a better suggestion..? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Out of curiosity, Is distilled water necessary? I picked up some BMW coolant from Jeff Gray and they said mix it with tap water when I asked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matth5 471 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Out of curiosity, Is distilled water necessary? I picked up some BMW coolant from Jeff Gray and they said mix it with tap water when I asked. I think that's only necessary for places where the tap water is not clean/drinkable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 There is some sh*t water around the world. MostNZ tap water far exceeds the BMW secs, last time I saw someone look into it. It you have super hard water, or need to use a water softener or any additional plant for cleaning it up, then avoid it, but generally it's fine (what do you think garages use?) The more "pure" water is, the less metal like it - RO (Reverse Osmosis) water dissolves metal, as water is "hungry" and will dissolve (not corrode) anything it can. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Distilled water is 5 bucks for 10 litres at the supermarket. Don't take the risk. 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted February 11, 2016 Distilled water is 5 bucks for 10 litres at the supermarket. Don't take the risk. Pretty much this IMO, its cheap enough. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Grinding/crunching gears... How bad is it really? I feel terrible for at least 2 days after I've crunched a gear. The sound is just so damaging! It's not something that happens often. Has probably only happened ~7 times in the 2 years I've owned the car. Only ever happens shifting 2nd to 3rd in a rush (accelerating quickly). Not sure if it's just from being in a rush or that the gearbox/engine mounts are shot Edited February 12, 2016 by Kepes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted February 12, 2016 I used distilled water in my compact racecar, has all alloy cooling system retrofitted and aftermarket alloy radiator. Usually just use tap water tho in the other cars including the cabvy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted February 13, 2016 Grinding/crunching gears... How bad is it really? I feel terrible for at least 2 days after I've crunched a gear. The sound is just so damaging! It's not something that happens often. Has probably only happened ~7 times in the 2 years I've owned the car. Only ever happens shifting 2nd to 3rd in a rush (accelerating quickly). Not sure if it's just from being in a rush or that the gearbox/engine mounts are shot It's nothing to worry about if it's a quick grind and it only happens once every 3 or 4 months. It happens to everybody from time to time. Now, prolonged (multi-second) grinding is a different story altogether. The key is understanding why it happened. If it was driver failure (poor clutch management) then that's fine. If it can't be explained by driver error then that's a bigger issue. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted February 13, 2016 It's nothing to worry about if it's a quick grind and it only happens once every 3 or 4 months. It happens to everybody from time to time. Now, prolonged (multi-second) grinding is a different story altogether. The key is understanding why it happened. If it was driver failure (poor clutch management) then that's fine. If it can't be explained by driver error then that's a bigger issue. Cheers Dave! Doesn't happen often and it's reassuring to know it happens to others too Only happens when I'm 'rushing' to change gears so must just be driver error Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Would be worth changing gearbox oil if it hasnt been done in a while too, will help with lubrication and the syncros. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kepes 231 Report post Posted February 17, 2016 Would be worth changing gearbox oil if it hasnt been done in a while too, will help with lubrication and the syncros. Oil was changed about 15,000km (1.5 years) ago with Red Line oil. I've heard it should be changed every 30,000kms. Sound accurate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted March 26, 2016 I'm trying to remove my outer tierods but the ball joint shaft just spins with the nut. They're only about 6 months old so I want to preserve them. There doesn't seem to be a visible surface on the shaft for me to grip with anything (it's all well protected behind the rubber). Is there a tip or trick to stop the shaft spinning? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
