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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/24/15 in all areas
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7 pointsOi, hybrid, NO!! Don't you come on this thread and start using facts and logic... that will spoil the fun for everyone. Should be able to put what you want on your own car, cardboard box and a sharpie is so much cheaper than that rip-off monopoly. etc//
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3 pointsHmmm, it's been a while since I shared anything about my Japanese toy on this German car forum. So here goes This morning I got a warrant for the UZZ32. It had been months since taking it out for a good drive so decided to head out east to some fantastic windy B roads. The car went so well with the new wheel and tyre setup, so much grip. The way the 32 handles on the tight bends second to none, totally effortless and builds confidence on top of confidence! Before my 32 ownership I used to ask an Aussie owner of 7 of these cars what 32s were like as a driving experience, while his comments gave me an idea of what to expect, actually driving one is the only way to really appreciate such suspension technology. I've never driven a car that can do what it can around the bends, it might be a heavy hector but the way it's composed makes it feel like a sub 1500kg machine with race prepared suspension. How it turns into the bends with such crispness really is the business, probably one of my favorite characteristics of the cars handling dynamics. A few days earlier I drove the folks Motorsport BMW 330i E46 on the same roads, a very nice car and plenty of fun to drive but it does require a lot more effort to put through the same bends and tends to want to loose traction easier than the UZZ32, tyres not the issue too as it was running high quality rubber like the Soarer is. Also notably, the BMWs ride was a lot more jarring and tiring than the UZZ32s when cursing at 100kp/h. Anyhow when I reached my destination I took a few pictures of my machine, only with my mobile but they came out alright. Enjoy!
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3 points
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2 pointsYes its for sale, Buy It! Or at least recommend it to your mates so I can buy another BMW. Thanks Trade me listing : 987624568 (paste doesn't seem to work?)
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2 pointsi know someone that will probably put it into 4 figures, as with anything, worth varying amounts to varying people
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2 pointsOne of those as a project gives me the shudders. Probably not had that much care in the last decade. With a lot of these cars they are only as good as the finer details are. To enjoy something like that, you'd almost need to strip it down and rebuild half the car! Particularly suspension, brake wise.
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2 pointsAbout 5 years a go we (bimmersport (Graham and Ollie) wrote to the government and looked at becoming a legal plates reseller. The government replied back and were open to the idea and put out a tender. The cost of setup of systems and integration into the backend systems as well as secure data soverinvty was the issue. It was going to cost a lot of money we didnt have to setup. Also the payback on profit from selling plate for $150 was going to take too long. It would of been hell popular again. I actually think personalised plates can stay with plates.co.nz but euro plates with normal government letters should be kept in the realm of NZ government liciencing system. And yes maybe you pay a little bit more ($50) for a euro plate with various end colours. So yes its a monopoloy .. however it is challenagible and the government are open to it. Youll just need 200k for startup costs and some water tight processes and systems already in place before you will be considered.
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2 pointsMy quest to battle the insane oil temps finally descended in to going all out. At the same time I decided to replace anything on the belt that had a bearing ... Coolant thermostat Water pump Tensioner pulley bearing Guide pulley New belt Alternator ICV to head vacuum drain pipe Internal oil thermostat replaced with external Mocal thermo -8 replaced with -10 AN lines and fittings Vac s50 oil housing to -10 AN adapter. Machined oil diverter valve to allow 100% flow Various elbows and separators The problem with the internal thermostat is that it only allows 33% of the oil when fully open to the cooler. Because I run a larger cooler the oil was not cycling through the cooler properly. It was taking 30mins of driving to even get hot. So it wasn't flowing at all. Effectively making it so I didn't have a working oil cooler. I came up with a much better solution which would push 100% of the oil through the cooler, however it did away with the internal oil thermostat which isn't ideal on a road car. So I sourced a external Mocal oil thermostat which is fully closed under 80 degrees C then will open and allow up to 100% flow to the cooler, which is what I was after! There is one draw back to this option, you are now pushing full pump pressure through a system that isn’t designed for it. So and upgrade of the size of pipe and fittings was in order. I went for -10 AN fittings in a nice black colour (I'm not usually into dazzly colours) and in keeping with mostly stock look. Removed Stock oil thermostat. And replaced with the diverter valve Installed the new Vac oil housing -10 adpater Installed all the boring stuff.. Made up some lines And installed nice 90 degree AN elbows for the oil cooler. Had to install 7/8-14 UNC to -10 adapters .. imperial sucks. Now to finish up tonight and burn everything in... Doing the oil took a while priming all of the lines but lucky isnt something I have to do too often as its really a two person job.
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1 pointLine the boot with a couple of bin liners and layer wet newspaper over the frozens. Will easily last an hour plus if its beef / mutton if it gets a little warm it'll be fine. Wouldn't want to chance it with poultry or pork though! Maybe grab a couple of bags of ice to rest on top to keep the uppermost layer nice and cool? The newspaper trick also works very well for chilling beers on the quick
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1 pointThat's a few bodies, are they cut up? Double bag in garbage bags + ice
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1 pointYeah, Daytona violet. Nice car but e36 convertibles just look..terrible.
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1 pointlooks good kyu. you just need to remove the lower grill, paint it black, and put it back in again.
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1 pointNice Michael, really is a true GT then, built for fast open back roads
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1 pointAh the good Ol days when gas was 90c a litre, 700ks mixed though, close to 900 just open road so pretty good for what it is
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1 pointThere were two different timing belts for the m20 engine, one is 127 tooth the other is 128 tooth. I believe the 128 tooth setup was for older cars and to change to the newer 127 tooth belt you just need the 'z127' stamped tensioner. Early m20's I guess the ones which came with the 128 tooth setup? also had a weaker cam gear
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1 pointI get an easy 700km per tank from my 500SE, cruising at 1900rpm and 100km/h, too. Nice car.
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1 pointNo worries, just let me know any areas you want looked at. I recommend buying my wifes Ford Probe instead though, who needs a 540i. I've got buyers lining up at the door so you'll have to be quick haha.
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1 pointBe a hard sale, old E32 like this would be a money pit. Probably best parted, sad but true
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1 pointSounds like your just the man then lol, I'll find out where it is an pm you. Would be really great, spoke to him last night. Had a lot of work done on it and he's had it for four years. It'll be worth your favourite tipple
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1 pointYer I'm not confident in cutting. Car is booked in tomorrow with OCD. Will upload pics after Cheers guys.
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1 pointimport E30 iX from the states Plate and tag it using your current car Done.
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1 pointGot a replacement getrag 260 pfl e30 gearbox for a steal at 300 bucks. Seems to be in good nick. Hopefully it doesnt have the synchro sitting in pieces near the drainplug like the one in my car which I found last week after trying to change into second gear and hearing a humming noise. Will be rebuilding the box in my car and keeping it as a spare or could be sale for the right price after rebuild. Also sold my BBS rg239s to some kid who wants to use them as skid rims and was pestering me for em at the shop. Its amazing what you hear when your exhaust is at a sensible noise level. Never would of thought the box was a problem. Sigh
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1 pointDrove to Napier and back this weekend - just under 1000kms round trip - and it was an absolute pleasure. So much grip in the twisties it's insane and more than enough power to make the very best of the steep uphill passing lanes between Taupo and Napier. Engine absolutely purred and managed a 12.7L/100 average despite some spirited driving. That may not sound that flash but is pretty amazing compared to the 24L/100 she sits on with my general weekend use! Unfortunately, the AC compressor developed a death rattle halfway. I'm picking failed clutch bearing as the same thing happened to my old E39. Probably cheaper to replace the unit than repair, so hoping I can find a good used one. It was stinking hot in the Bay, so it was a tad sweaty on the return journey but that's what the big pillarless coupe windows are for. I am deaf now though and my hair looks like Kramer from Seinfeld. Forgot to take the camera so had to rely on phone pics...
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1 pointIf that was the case then I'd expect the ticking to be louder,?especially on start up until the oil was properly lubricating everything. But not the case. Significantly quieter now and maybe placebo effect but the engine seems smoother. Regular oil changes with the recommended oil seems a better plan than second guessing.
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1 pointNo need to thank you mate. If I want to see the Mrs.' legs generally I just ask, not trawl through her thread hoping for a peek.
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1 pointSam from OCD here. $160 is a great price but I would be questioning the quality. In my eyes it all comes down to your expectation and budget. You might find that the level of quality you get for what you pay your mate is exactly what you are after. Theres a place in the market for every 'level' of cut and polishing and grooming. To give you an idea I can do a cut polish and wax in 5 hours and make a car look a lot better if I wanted to - but it's not my game. We recently corrected Martins E39 M5 (check project threads on bimmersport). It took approx 1 hour for initial wash down, 2 hours for clay barring and decontamination, 11 hours or so of cutting the paint, another 2 hours of refinement polishing and then probably another 2 hours for final wash down, sealant and wax. You wouldn't catch me spending almost 20 hours on a car and charging $160 . On top of that we use three different size machines to polish as many areas as possible, polishes from Germany, waxes from Korea etc etc... But in terms of cost our RRP for that service is $749 (including a full interior and exterior detailing). My advice would be to really have a good think about what your expectation is. Do you want to improve your car or do you want as close to a show car as possible? Also, if you do the show car route do you have the time, knowledge and resources to properly maintain that finish too? Sorry for the long post! Feel free to PM me if you have any more specific queries in regards to anything car care related
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1 pointBeing at the beach, the salt air really hurt my paint. It would get wet, bake in the sun, dry with the salt marking the paint, and repeat. A wash and even a hand polish would still leave marks. A crappy detail prior to purchase also left holograms and swirls. So a paint correction was in order.... I tried to nerd out on research, so ask any questions. Very happy with the results. Here is a album with some before, during, after shots.
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1 pointYou found the perfect car... Excellent! Should be fun, though you'll still never convince me that it's a great-looking car, even when it's outperforming, outlasting and more cost-effective than the 8!