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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/17/16 in Posts
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4 pointsWell, I went for a drive this afternoon and everything went surprisingly well. No fault codes yet so fingers crossed. When it cools down I will do a thorough check for leaks.
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3 pointsSome 3 Series in Munich, happy to post the rest up if anyone is interested:
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3 pointsAndrew wants the D Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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3 pointsFinally got the genuine BMW motorsport front splitter on Very integrated fitment with the sump guard, allows the slitter to slide back and forth under it
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2 pointshttp://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1034553039.htm
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2 pointsWell, this is escalating fast... Fabric panels to be replaced with M Rain, I'll leave the leather, it'll match the door cards that I don't yet have. Need a seatbelt, should be easy. $12.50 all up - thanks Lucan!
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2 pointsApologies - I was speed reading through. I saw 'dipsticks gone', moved to next post and responded to what you'd said. Of course, if I'd read through the whole of your first post... Oh well. It's been a sh*t week, and a sh*t start to the year. To give you an idea, our cat didn't die when it was run over. That's about the high point so far.
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2 pointsHope it all goes well for you Nathan... keep your fingers crossed... time will reveal all
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2 pointsUpdate; So far it has taken way longer than planned. I encountered a few problems, and have had limited time to spend on it because of family commitments. Also, I have been doing a very thorough job of cleaning every single part as I go - even if its not seen. I have degreased, water-blasted and cleaned the underside of the car. I've also done some maintenance while the car has been up on ramps; Replaced engine sump gasket. Replaced engine oil and filter with castrol edge. Replaced fuel filter and fuel hoses. So today I started it up sans the exhaust. Everything pretty much went as planned. No oil leaks from the transmission, and no oil leaks from the engine. A small water leak which I will hunt down tomorrow. Still to do is connect the gearshift cable to the transmission (I'm having difficulty with this as its not gripping the cable), reconnect the underbody heat-shield, and reconnect the exhaust. Then go for a test drive.
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1 pointJust thought I'd remake my M3 thread as I managed to delete all photos from my profile. (Admin feel free to delete old one) A few minor changes since the last thread. Car details: 1994 S50B30 75,000 miles LHD Dove Grey Vader Interior Things done so far: BC Race Coilover Suspension 20mm Spacers 17" BBS RX202 German Europlate VAC Shifter K&N Carbon Fibre Air Intake
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1 pointThis car is owned by the guy I bought my e28 off. My friend did the wrap job on it.
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1 pointSwaps for my collection of rare and collectible old french gti's? Beaut of a car! If only there was a d after the 5...
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1 pointBolster replacement, should be similar to the DC2R ones. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?168334-Recaro-bolster
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1 pointSpotted a really nice E30 325i in pale blue in traffic today. I dont know my e30s but i think it had the tech1 kit, hartge badge and wheels, and a real subtle hartge stripe down the side. Im starting to desire E30s more and more.
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1 pointby the way no need to pay $600 per gasket, they are available genuine BMW $250ish a piece, still $1k sure but not almost $2500. Can also get non-genuine for cheaper again. much more daunting to change than they actually are, half an hour a side tops. they fail when weight is put on the intakes as they are a 3 dimensional shape not a flat paper gasket etc. Jooles did them a year or two back on his 850 as well i think. come to think of it the seals around said valve i mentioned earlier (if your car has them) also common failure, 20 year old rubber now will be hard as. mine just crumbled away.
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1 pointif the M73 has the little valves on the rockers covers on both sides that go into the intakes, just above the front cylinder on both banks, put some hose clamps around them they are just pressure fitted which i found to be inadequate on mine.
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1 pointlol - I thought of that as I posted but also know you'd notice it immediately! I was just thinking you might be too awed to care.
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1 pointDip sticks are long gone on transmissions and engines these days. Nathan... the transmission must be filled on a level plane in park with engine running after initial fill. Then run the motor and go through all the gears. Reposition in park and top up. Run the transmission up to 45c temperature and recheck the level. You really need a scanner to check live data for temp settings. Allow excess oil to drain and cap off.
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1 pointWhen doing our car, I check for gearbox capacity and initially half fill (or thereabouts). Replace the fill plug, start the engine, cycle the gearshift a few times (you may see the gearbox warning light), then switch off the engine. Add fluid to ~75% capacity and repeat. Then add fluid 'til it starts to overflow. You'll have used less than quoted capacity as there will likely have been fluid in the lines and cooler. Take it for a drive and check.
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1 pointNo trans dipstick. I will loosen off the filler plug to let any excess out.
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1 pointYes it is, and yes it is. If overfilled, at best it'll overflow. Does your car have a auto trans dipstick?
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1 pointIt always does, and you always do. At least, that's my experience. I do know people who sail through stuff like this on their own, though. Looks as though you've really gone to town. Good stuff.
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1 pointWould be worth changing gearbox oil if it hasnt been done in a while too, will help with lubrication and the syncros.
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1 pointIts a shame you are in Dunedin or I would have come over and helped you out (I'm a chippy). Its an awesome garage - I'm very jealous.
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1 pointI get the feeling that 6 hosts won't be presenting all the time. There will be a small, core group (such as Le Blanc and Evans) and then the others would chime in with particular cars. I wouldn't be surprised if they have interjecting review snippets between longer segments. This is where I see the other hosts coming in...
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1 pointTried out some tunes on the Revolution Dyno Centre dyno. I still need to dial in the tune but have already got massive gains in the midrange.
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1 pointI suspect it will require a cert even though the bases I want are designed to couple the SRx's to the E36, are genuine Recaro and have belt receptacles built in. The question is, will the WoF people even be able to tell they're not stock...
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1 pointthanks Ash, Progress to date. Front brakes fitted , very cool. wheels are 18x8.5 with et40 ( I may not use these wheels but something close) 17.5 mm spacers Everything misses with good clearance. Question.......... How far can you roll guards before A) they look stupid, and are not practicable and I need to look at flares ( wheels are 13mm past guards ). Side note, I find working on cars therapeutical, there's something about pulling it apart and putting it back together that's relaxing, don't know if I could do it for a living.
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1 pointI will just leave this here http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1031064194.htm
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1 pointFantastic, thanks for that link. It helped confirm the 0280 150 440 pink injectors are what I should use. I think I can get a set of these off the M52B28 donor engine I have for the Vanos conversion on the M50B25nv. Should probably have used these to start with... I was sitting on the right injectors all along!!! Cheers!!
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1 pointYou just want some top feed injectors. Some need adapters but the majority are what you've got. Also you'll probably want high impedance injectors. If you give your tuner a call they should be able to tell you exactly what to use. For injector info I usually use the witchhunter website.http://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php
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