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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/18 in all areas
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4 pointsHey Team So managed to get a lot done today and hopefully tomorrow too. With the help of Master Gee and another mate E.B they pretty much turned up here in a ute with a portable work shop, had his compressor, big tool box and gearbox stand. We managed to pull the motor and box out in 40 mins. I did some minor stuff during the week also just to help spend things along. this bloody thing was heavy! I had removed the radiator and coolant expansion tank before hand. before after a good degrease and water blast. so after discussing with gee the best option was to take the whole front off, that way we could just hoist the whole motor and box into the car. As we are using the pmc adapter plate, we didn't fancy trying to line the box to the motor while under the car. M62b44 block M60b40 heads and everything else needed from this motor will be swapped over to the b44 block Also managed to get the Hamann wheels apart and paint stripped the 3 piece barrels. The Hamann centres may need a little machining to fit or possible heat the barrels up and see if they expand enough to fit the centres. And hey Nathan here are the finished rocker covers, again a few imperfections but i wasn't too fazed. Hopefully will get more done to the motor tomorrow. Thanks Richard
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1 pointHi all, I bought this car as a daily driver a couple of months ago from Team Mac, and have been learning a bit about it and chipping away at a few things since. The plan is to go to BMW driver training and learn how to drive it properly, then attend some track days. I'm more than happy with the performance and have a bit of a 'wish list' for future parts. Having come from owning a variety of Hondas (and an Audi), it's nice to pick up a car that requires next to no modifications to perform...! The paint is in great condition, and overall the car has been well looked after for it's 77,000kms. The first things on the list to replace were the wheels & tyres. It came on a set of 20" rims, which gave the car a bit of a 'rollerskate' look that didn't really grow on me. Plus, the ride was quite firm for a daily on 25 profile tyres. The rears were 10.5in wide, and just fit inside the flared guards - although it looked great from behind, it simply wasn't practical. It also came on H&R springs, and AFAIK standard shocks - may look into replacing the rear shocks. I picked up a set of 19's in CSL-size staggered fitment (apparently the best standard fitment), and on they went. Comparison: The front kidney grill was already a black-paint item, so that saved me replacement parts. I inherited a fitting p-plate shortly afterwards, which used to reside on a family member's Z3M Coupe. The muffler is branded as 'Supersprint' - turns out to be a pretty good piece of kit. I was initially keen to change however have grown to like it. The only complaint is that it makes a bloody racket when it's cold, but that doesn't last too long I suppose. Excuse the residual crap on the tailpipes in the pic below I want to keep the car standard engine-wise, mainly due to the extended warranty I picked up (and the fact it can out-perform my ability currently). I have noticed there are some subtle nice aftermarket aesthetic parts that can be acquired from Oz, so keen to hear from anyone that imports bits and pieces. I want to stay away from the glaringly obvious carbon fibre bits like bonnet and boot (no offence intended to anyone that has these, it's just not the look I'm going for). Wish list (in no particular order): - Replace the standard clutch-stop with an adjustable item - Fit a bloody euro-sized plinth thing for the front number place - Bought, need to paint and mount when I get a sunny arvo. - Replace rear lip spoiler with carbon (style) lip - Not 100% sure whether I want to do this or not, it's lying in my garage at the mo'. - Carbon front lip (direct bolt-on/off) - Mainly to save the paint at the bottom of the front bumper... it'll probably cost almost as much to repaint the bumper cover as to purchase the aftermarket lip spoiler. - Replace fog lights with HID items. - Replace rear shocks (a top aftermarket brand is apparently the best option here) - Hard wire in a radar detector of some description - Carbon rear diffuser (replacement part) - Re-cover touch surfaces. There's a couple of little chips off the steering wheel, and I don't want the driver's armrest to wear. I'm pretty picky tho, so this is down the list. - CSL airbox (in the distant future, chances are I won't go this way however. They're freaken expensive) And that's about it. Not a 'build thread' as such, as there's no real building going on. I'll update as I install bits and pieces. Suggestions and comments are most welcome.
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1 pointFor sale $22,500 ono 2010 135i Coupe N55 Engine - MHD Stage 1+ Map 7-Speed DCT Sunroof Msport package / Wheels NZ Maps and Radio Currently 100,750Kms Full Build list: https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/vm06832 I have service history/receipts while I've owned it, within the last 10,000kms the following parts have been replaced: Spark Plugs Eldor Coils O2 sensors High Pressure Fuel Pump Electric Waterpump and Thermostat Cabin Filter I also have some other parts that will be included as part of preventative maintenance. Mods: VRSF Catless downpipe VRSF Charge pipe VRSF 7" Intercooler BMS Intake BMS Oil catch can Carbon Fiber rear trunk spoiler Carbon Fiber rear diffuser Facelift 'Blackline' rear taillights Few minor stone chips, slight curbing on both left wheels. Paint chip on the rear bumper (photographed). Located Wellington
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1 pointClassic BMW 525E presented in Bronzit Beige Metallic on Black leather. NZ new originally sold in Christchurch. Solid and honest car. Straight body with scratches/dents expected for a 32 year old car. Very little rust. Clear coat starting to come up on the back half of the car. Paint worn in spots. Interior is in very good condition aside from a few cracks on the dash. Engine was rebuilt 2 years ago. Modified 2.7L stroker engine. M20B25 head (completely rebuilt) and intake. M20B27 bottom end (rebuilt and balanced). Converted to Motronic 1.3. Dyno tuned by Hi-Volocity. 2.5" exhaust. Automatic converted to 5-speed manual when engine rebuilt. Receipts totaling over $8k in the past 2 years. Neat little car, would be a stunner with a new paint job and a little more TLC. Odometer hasn't worked since i've owned the car. Heater valve not working. Bonus items included: Sheep skin front seat covers 16" basket weave wheels (E38) Brake upgrade (calipers) from 540i E34 New WOF. Sold as it, where is. Asking $8700 Reasonable offers accepted. See trademe https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1731706778
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1 pointi can critisie that build too, so here i go dont read on if you dont want Its not a 330D, that is a M51B25 engine not an M57B30. so its a 325td/tds. you can see it is a plastic cover on top so it looks like a M57 stupid place to mount the amplifiers, how do they dissapait heat in that tiny box? Headliner looks like its been sprayed using a paint can that is 90% empty. i bet it gets flat batteries a lot with a tiny battery like that for a diesel engine. suspension comments as per above. rest is styling which i keep to myself when it comes to others cars, because thats subjective.
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1 pointI would be inclined to get the cooling system checked / pressure tested first. The coolant has gone down for a reason - that needs to be determined.
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1 pointNZ new rego Jan 2002 as a 316 colour Topaz blue. Work carried out all certified. Engine transplant N42 4cyl out M54B25 in 6cyl 2.5ltr, 5 speed manual gearbox. Drive shaft shortened and hoops fitted a diff up grade to medium case 3.15:1 ratio, brakes and suspension 325 m sport also.M sport body kit side skirts, door kick panels, front & rear bumpers, rear PDC, Clear park and side lights, 2004 red tail lights and tinted exterior mirror glass with wide angle section. Interior seats upgraded to leather M sport, cluster rings fitted.M sport Multi function steering wheel with cruise and radio control, Hood lining A,B,C pillar trim has been changed to the black M sport. Dash trim and door trim is Black cubic, auto dip mirror, torch in the glove box.Centre console M sport with fold down arm rest also zhp gear lever. This was a project car have all receipts for moneys spent body has 221,300k motor 134,300k's $6,500.00 The link will explain what has been done any questions please ask car located Foxton https://www.dropbox.com/s/a5p1h6fr4k3pmes/Tim up to date project 3 (3).ppsx?dl=0 rear end.doc
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1 pointNot a BMW, but this forum is I think the most helpful and active car forum in NZ, so I am going to post it here looking for some tips finally get around to fix my CLK320 that has been parked up since broken into a few months back. some lowlife that had no idea what he was doing decide he would like to take my merc for a spin and smashed my quarter glass. ripped out the door card try to open the door, without success(vacuum operated central locking), managed to squeeze into the car, and broken the steering column cover, and damaged the ignition. (what were you thinking, it's keyless entry and keyless start, even I can't get it to start with the backup key once the battery in the key is dead). caused lots of damage and achieved nothing, what a loser. Anyway, I got most of the stuff fixed now as they share with C class, which is available in pick a part, but the quarter glass took me some time to find, managed to get one from Germany without cost me my arm. now it's time to install it. Okay, I realized I tend to write a lot of nonsense before I actually start to ask the important question, so here it is How do I remove the remaining shattered glass that is still glued to the window frame effectively? I can currently pulling them off piece by piece now on piece #76, and got them everywhere. thanks, guys
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1 pointToday on the way home form a Wellington group catch-up... a new M5... the ActiveHybrid model ?
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1 pointTempting mate! I'll consider it, I'm still holding the 302's for the apocalypse...haha.
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1 pointHi all, new to the bmw euro cars, but thought id introduce my self, currently rocking an e46 land yacht 318i soon to be the project car. I daily a boosted sf5 forester running 14ps
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1 pointE92 M3 + a cheap daily? 335i will be a nice combo of power + daily driveability.
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1 point1M is 2 door limited edition track toy, a 420 is a low end coupe Vs M3 which is top of the range? All over the place 420 is going to depreciate faster than the others get to 100kmh... Personally I think you would be mad to daily an M3, maintenance costs are not cheap. Id be looking at other models ending in 35i/d 40i/d etc
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1 pointA MTM foam cannon with Adams car shampoo plus the brushes from my wheel bucket. Dressed the plastics with Carpro perl after.
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1 pointLol thats a bit harsh, i mean its not that best looking E30 around but id still drive as it's not an active tourer or 5 series gt which i wouldn't be caught dead in) Axle stands
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1 pointThanks guys, have added a few things to my list, im in no hurry so will wait for the right car or the right price to come along. Will post in the showroom once i pick something up.
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1 pointWhy... a single headlight for the X5 will cost more than a complete Morrie rebuild!
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1 pointHoly crap, I just got an agreed value quote from Swann for my M3: State (current) - $52pm agreed at 15k (maximum they'll insure it for) Swann - $33pm agreed at 22k with way better options! I'm moving.
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1 pointHey, I'm still need to do my re-introduction (haven't been active for a while) but thought I'd share the Bluetooth receiver I got in the meantime. Tried a few but this one works amazing, very happy, auto charges, auto shuts off, auto connects to your phone on car start and comes with microphone built in so can actually do hands-free like built in from factory. You just need AUX plug and 12V power in centre console. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_UQKEBb8JPSQBS
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1 pointMy opinion on replica seats: If you use them on the road, then you run the risk of the seat failing and you injuring yourself and others on the road. If you use them on the track, then you are just asking to be killed in a crash if not seriously injured. Professional racing/motorsport seats are expensive for a reason, trusted in terms of safety and reliability as opposed to items being built for aesthetic purposes only. Wonder what happens if you are involved in an accident and the seat doesnt support your body properly? Or, wonder what happens when you are driving a corner and the seat fails and throws you against the window or the steering wheel making you unable to control/drive the car? Here is a nice post (and plenty more info on the ol google) https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/warning-counterfeit-sparco-seat-failure-930854/
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1 pointFirst up nice car Glenn, you'll enjoy it! I'm just gonna throw this out there but I am a Sales Manager for Kia and I have been driving a Kia Stinger for over 6 months now, well am on my 4th V6 Sport and 2nd 4cyl GT Line (demo's). Honestly one of the best cars I've ever driven. You'd be hard pushed to find anything comparable for $60/70k in any brand! Awesome quality and well spec'd and performance which would rival many. On launch we drove them round Taupo track and they were pretty impressive to be honest, considering its their first shot but it shows Albert Bierman (ex BMW M division) and Peter Shreyers (ex Audi/VW) input into the Korean brands (Kia/Hyundai). Quality and reliability is fantastic and below shows my recently sold 2007 Sorento (199,000Kms) towing in my broken 135i with half the kms recently! Sorento never let me down and towed the racecar with ease, much better than my old diesel Prado! My 2c...
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1 pointMy mother in law took a Kona for a drive as she was wanting a replacement for her Forrester. First up tier one Korean manufactuers like Hyundai and Kia are a fair way ahead of GM Daewoo and the Cruze is just plain bread and butter motoring. I think saying all Korean cars are the same is unfair an Opel is not a BMW or Benz.I thought the Kona was fine a bit on the small side for my 196cm frame but just about everything in that class is, but I am at one end of the Bell Curve. The Koreans have focussed on plain value for money cars for a long time but the Hyundai N and the Kia Stinger have shown they have some intent and to be fair they are not bad first up efforts. I would happily drive either. Their SUV 's are decent and I for one dont look for sports car handling in an SUV, if I want that I will buy a sports car. Technology wise if you like old school then buy an old car, hell even my 79 year old mother in law can use a touch screen. A lot of this is just badge snobbery. But I guess we all have that to some degree. I dislike French and Italian cars because of quality issues.