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Rescued by Hellbm and given the 3 day makeover. Manual conversion Rear Dif mount Engine and gearbox mounts Front Shocks Steering wheel replacement Tighten various loose and missing bolts, clips etc Aftermarket tinted side markers replaced with OEM ones. Wheels replaced with Style 405 / Michelin Pilot Sport To do: Paint refresh Front bumper Clubsport Splitters.

2297XX Celis F/L tailights installed. I've been trying to do this for about 1 year now. After 2 dud sets off trademe I had sort of given up but then @BreakMyWindow came through with a set from one of his recent missions to A&E. These also had the plug adapters, major score. Then I was too noob/scared to use NCS to try and code them in and my ISTA P is still not working but @hqstu came through with an LCM IIIB off a late model 525 running all the celis and xenon goods. My PA soft 1.4 is working and so following the E39 source videos I coded the LCM to my car, was alittle apprehensive as to how the front Xenons and wiring were going to respond but everything works perfect so I went ahead and started drilling some holes in the the tailight buckets. I followed E39 source videos again for this and a forum DIY. No hole saw but this stepped drill bit worked a charm New holes plug adapters Before after Fitments pretty good, I did have to do abit of bashing with a hammer. Since I've had it 3 years as of this month I thought some new plates would make a nice birthday present. TBH i was planning on keeping the plates when I sold it so went about remaking them while I was filling in the forms to make them mine. I didnt drill the rear plate, I just screwed the surround (which is abit faded and could probably do with a refresh) and then snapped the plate in place. The E39 community really helped me out with this one, thanks guys! Update on the shimmy. Case closed. I've had 2 people drive the car now and they are more worried about my mental health than any vibrations. Tyres are still on the cards and a new Battery is in the not to distant future too.

Date: 5 Aug 2020 Distance: 261313kms 1. WoF. Grey Thunder flew through the WoF check today. "drives really nicely eh!". Tyres wearing evenly - 6mm all around. No advisories, clean bill of health. Happy days! Missed my customary photograph. Next (immediate) steps: Cluster - tacho Centre console - clock Driver's window - fix in regulator to address wind whistle Rear brake refresh ... and keep collecting/cleaning M42 parts in preparation. Edit: oh hang on: 2. Interior changes (last week) From this to this in just five minutes. Well, ten if you count re-doing it the next day - my steering hadn't been spot-on straight in the garage.

Hi guys and girls, New to the BMW world. Have always been interested in E46 but am now the first proud nz owner of an M Sport 330i and loving it. A big difference to my daily work truck ford ranger

Awesome. That’s what I wanted to hear. thank you.

I don't know anything about E53's but I would be looking at Scmeidman / FCP Euro / ECS Tuning and OEM parts before Trade Me. A lot of those TM listings look like sellers importing unknown ebay type parts and marking them up to OEM prices. FCP Euro in particular has very fast, well priced shipping and good pricing on OEM components.

Good Morning, Hope everyone is having a good weekend. just came to say Hi! I own a Z4 E85. Looking forward to meet z4 owners at some point. cheers!

I saw this today in the city. It's a real head-turner. Congratulations and keep up the good work.

Hey Team So finally cracked onto stripping the e46 wagon of the v8 running gear to go into the e46 blue sedan and also stripped the sedan of its running gear. sedan ready for the v8 swap Dropping the fuel tank to prep up in order to weld some reinforcement plates. I managed to get the motor out with the headers still attached. I will be swapping out the adapter plate and diesel box out in favour of the factory zf 320z v8 5 speed box I have sent the flywheel setup away to Greg at MP auto to get a new firiction plate relined. Also did a trip to Auckland last weekend and picked up this v12 mock engine to start fitting into the M3 E46 wagon running gear out, so i thought i would use this opportunity to test fit this motor to see if it was possible This a n62b48 out of a 750i rear sump v8 and i tell you what, its doable! may need a little cutting but could be worth it to someone that wants to go down this road. So only real issue i saw was that having the motor sit as far back as possible the steering pump was fouling on the steering rack. just slightly touching the subframe with the lower oil pan Alternator was pretty close to the chassis rail too but with a bit of a massage with a hammer she would fit like a glove. Left side also touching just slightly With the motor this far back there would be no way of fitting a gearbox unless you cut the tunnel up. Steering looks like it would clear with a custom set of headers. So if anyone was looking at doing this swap or attempting to. My advice would be to modify the lower oil pan by cuting it down by 3-5cm. Move the motor foward 3-5cm the you would solve the tunnel, steering issue. Thanks Team

Seems reminiscent of my recent experience, Winger having ordered the wrong part. One reason I wish I still lived in Hamilton...?

Isnt it the heating element in the CCV system lines? They were shorting out and starting fires.

Who doesn't buy a BMW and immediately replace the entire cooling system??? ??

Welcome from a Z4 owner in Wellington. I have a 2003 3.0 manual E85, under rated car IMO. Ditching the run flats make a big difference, I guess you mean Bilstein shocks and standard springs? I have Motorsport suspension but was considering the H & R’s with koni or Bilstein shocks so interested to hear your comments. Nice looking car in white.www.z4-forum.com is a good UK site for Z4 enthusiasts.

Guy on the E36 Car Club Facebook group selling one:

If you can DIY then its decent. If not then you are just gambling with a big potential money pit if its got no proven history.

Can do the 2.93 crown wheel and pinion.

People posting a quote of the post that is right above their response...

Why don’t you try selling them then instead of having a whinge about being called out for sh*t stirring. Subtle enough?

This panel section has really got my work cut out for me. Don't know what happened to this side but very subtle ripples and dents all over the show. Done several runs over with guide cost, block sanding and filler. They looked straight in many places, but far from it. And it's obvious now someone has also done a hack job Rollin the rear guards. I know it would been a lot quicker if I didn't take the entire panel back. But not knowing the condition of the repair would have eaten away at me after I finished painting.

While the weather's been crap, and the OBD is now reading the car, I thought i would dig into the final warning light on the dash, the ABS Thought this might be a helpful write up if anyone else comes across this problem, because I would say wiring / connection issues are probably more common than the actual pre-tensioner failing. ** Edit ** I'm writing this because I don't want anyone else reading this to get the wrong idea or bad information, as I am aware pretensioners and air bags have pyro charges in them. If you're planning on doing your own testing, seek advice from an electrician about this and follow correct procedures before commencing. The battery had been disconnected for atleast 15 minutes prior to me unplugging or inspecting any harnesses / plugs. The pretensioner was removed from the seat and placed in a vice when I tested for ohms. To measure resistance of the pre-tensioner the short tabs need to be dis-engaged, i'm aware why these are there, to prevent the device accidentally being set off outside of it's intended purpose in a crash. I am aware that a multi meter sends a small amount of current in order to measure resistance, from what I've always been told on a 200 ohm scale a maximum of 3 volts will be used, which I am told is not enough to set off a pyro charge but seek your own advice on this. I am also aware that static electricity carries enough voltage to set off a pyro charge The purpose in why I posted this up in the first place was more to show where the failure for me occurred, as I couldn't find much about it specifically online about "Low resistance" fault, and the small adjustment I made to ensure the shorts are dis engaged when plugged in, doesn't compromise the safety circuit of the pre-tensioner, when the plug comes out, the shorts engage again anyway. ** Edit ** So the 2 codes it pull was - resistance too high passenger, I pulled the pre tensioner plug out, cleaned it put it back in, and that code went away - resistance too low driver side, pulled the plug out cleaned it, put it back in and code persisted. From my research that code of low resistance is usually a sign of either a failed pre-tensioner, or one that has been deployed. Found a spare one with wiring at pickapart for $12, so swapped both tensioners onto both sets of wiring, no avail Took the driver seat out again, measured the ohms on the pre-tensioner, seemed to be Ok about between 1-2 ohm ish (not sure my leads on the multimeter are still 100% accurate anymore) Plugged it in, and measured from the larger plug, you have to dis-engage the metal tab from the pin in there too, which is a pain, And measured 0 ohm. So still suggesting a short circuit some where. Cut the wiring insulation from the main plug to look for a break in the connection, found nothing. So thought that's strange, which left me with something at the plug in the pre-tensioner end I thought maybe when it was plugged in, the tabs weren't disengaging from the pins, thus creating a 0 ohm curcuit, tried adjusting the tabs a bit so it would push back easier with the plug engaged to no avail, so I adjusted the end of the plug by adding a tiny bit of a lip to push back those tabs when I inserted it Measured it from the larger connector and sure enough, showing correct ohms again ------------------------------------ Installed tensioner back on the seat, plugged it back in, then connected the battery. Loaded up ISTA, reset the Errors, and warning light finally gone! Hope this helps, wrote it up because I was struggling to find a description of this specific issue, about the plug not disengaging the metal tabs (that act as a fail safe) when performing service work Onto more body work tomorrow, got to get rid of some final low spots.

Tried to get a very annoying dent out since it doesn't look like you can get in from the inside and push it out. Only had one of those SCA suction cups. So the toilet plunger made a special appearance. Actually worked pretty good, until the suction cup broke, toilet plunger is staying strong ? Hot water, hair dryer was making It nice and maluable, don't have my heat gun yet, which might help bring it out more. From To It's going it need filler. But it would have been 8mm+ with out pulling it out a bit. Begun body work on the other side. Going to do just the obvious deep stuff before I seat it off with etch and 2k primer. But will probably have to do more Bondo over top. But it will be 1000% better than the chur bro repair it was before. Kept raining on and off so put it in the garage. Had the tail lights off so water started bucketing into the boot trays. Got about 1l out with the trusty Bissell.

Top up the gearbox first and see if it drives first... go from there

So it's been a month. I drove my 130i all the way from Gladstone, over the hill, sat in traffic (Why the F are there traffic lights on a motorway) and dropped it at Winger BMW in Wellington to have it's cooling hose recall completed. They called us in the afternoon and said the car is ready for pickup. They completed the 1st part of the recall..... Apparently it was always a two step process. First they check the part number to see if it needs replacing. It does. Then they replace it. They had time to replace it. But don't have the part.... It's on back order in Germany. So now at some unknown date in the future I will have to bring it back over and repeat the process.. Dealerships still managing to cost me money and time. I could have checked the bloody part number myself. Also this issue effects nearly all BMW vehicles with this motor. If you haven't had the recall. Might be worth looking it up and confirming the part number.