Eagle

Yeah swapping a bit of pain but suppose it gives you some idea. Doing both set of rear arms is a good idea when you get new parts judging from your other thread. You need to remove the upper control arm anyway to remove the strut (easiest way imo)

I would be replacing the struts with Bilsteins etc at the same time if you are going to strip everything down. Seems like a lot of work to do just to keep on using the originals which are most pretty worn at this point. New mounts come that shim installed im fairly sure. The rear rubber shims and mounts hold up very well anyway. Ive never seen one that has any real wear compared to new, though i replace the mounts for piece of mind its all the front strut parts the usually fall to bits

Probably are from my pov knowing what a refreshed E39 feels like. The strut mount rubber can compress over time along with the strut dampening weakening which can lower you.

Are you still on the original struts?

Doubt many E34 M5's are going for 6 figures, possibly a 3.8 touring etc or some immaculate special edition maybe. 30-40k is what they appeared to be selling in previous few years.

Seen a couple of neglected\abused E34 540i's recently, both well over 300,000+ which is a testament to their stoutness under garbage owners.

Usually the ones with a massive list of whats been replaced and\or refreshed. Obviously it varies in degree of scale but i think most project cars threads on here are a good representation of what im referring to. Most aren't aiming for concours level but something that looks, drives and is more reliable than the average example.

High likely you are going to have to throw at least a couple of grand at anything you buy if you want to have it mechanically close to new. Only real enthusiasts with money to burn that tend to do this, while typically holding onto them for a long period.

Purchase price for 325i\328i 6 cyl manual and repairs id still go with the E36 myself, last BMW with glass headlights too. The E36 Ti is the closest BMW ive driven that felt like the E30.

Besides the pricing, E30 technology is quite old these days. Can be great from a cost and reliability standpoint, but for learning things the E36 is the far better car for your requirements.

Likely have to throw a few k at either to get them upto scratch. Cost wise the E46 would be far the better option. E90 not worth getting it for 323i imo.

Yeah pretty much why i bought one even though ill never fully sold on the their looks. Performance more than enough around town if in given their weight and reasonable output. Auto isnt too bad at all shifting wise once its had a fluid change and adaption reset.

E38 728i at Avondale pickapart if you can convince some one to remove

TBF the average equivalent civic isn't much (if any) better. My daily Ti a $30 a week car now after spending twice what ive paid for it on a thorough refresh. It's close enough to factory running and driving spec that its far more dependable than anything in the ~5k bracket that didn't have the equivalent work done on it (basically everything for sale)

+1 on PCV and hose but you should really do a smoke test. I usually do a MAF clean and a check of the plugs if you haven't already. Part no 2 and 17 are other leak locations which are hard to see without smoke. http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E36-Compact/Europe/318ti-M44/R-A/jun1997/browse/fuel_preparation_system/fuel_injection_system_injection_valve/ I find old\worn engine mounts in these contribute quite considerably to the feel of the lumpy\rough idle. If all parts are in good nick and working as intended the idle quality isnt bad enough to adjust timing imo.

I can at least read\modify all the main ones (DME,EGS,SRS,ABS) on my current 06\97 build 318Ti.

Just ditched some flogged out Monroes on the Ti for B4's also. Always good $ spent.

Never had an problems reading any M44 engine regardless of build date. Always used the usual 16>20 pin adapter with INPA, BM scanner 1.4 etc.

The driveshafts are likely different as the 330i uses a CV joint, im assuming the 325i diff input shaft can be swapped on the the 330i. Diff ratios may or may not be preferable also depending on requirements, so swapping the whole diff and axles maybe the better option if you dont want to take anything apart. Given you have a complete donor i can't see you needing anything as long as you know understand the coding side of the swap.

How full was the tank?.

Front fog light plug connectors are likely different. May have to cut them off the wrecked car and re-solder if you want to use them.

Yeah im not a fan of modern car design in general but BMW just keep going down hill. 2 series active tourer and 5\6 series GT are couple of the worse BMW's to me. Good examples of BMW trying way too hard to fill every market segment and coming up with abominations.

I meant a manual conversion on 13k 320i for a daily driver isnt worth it, not that a manual for a daily driver isnt worth it in general . A 318is isnt far off from a 320i power wise and would work better for a daily driver. Costs are less for 4 cylinder engines, rest of the car is largely the same. 325i aint bad, its certainly the most robust M5X engine for a few reasons incl iron block but its built more towards top end performance. To me the 328i certainly is the best all rounder and nicest to live with, good low\mid range torque and decent mpg, alloy block so lighter but not an engine you want to overheat . I doubt a M3 is in your budget (25k+) but they are more of a weekend toy. Id recommend driving a few examples within your budget and decide what suits you.

If you want daily driver E36 with decent fuel economy then you be far better off going for a 318i with the DOHC M42 or M44 engine instead. Far easier to work on, less problematic and cheaper to fix than 6 cylinders.

A 320i makes far less power compared to the 2.5 or 2.8L without having noticeable difference in fuel economy (could even be worse depending on your driving). Just doesn't make financial sense to do a proper manual conversion on it especially since its only to be used a a daily driver. You will also loose a chunk of $ if and when you sold it, as a manual converted 320i isn't that valuable or sort after. As above you are better off spending ~10k on a manual 325i or 328i and using the change or maintenance or to tidy it. If you want a project car then you'd be off getting something that's cheap in reasonable condition which you can learn to fix up. You'd likely still spend less than that 320i and have a better car once done. Kilometres don't mean all that much, the 30,000km may have been short trips around town\sitting in traffic\getting in and out. Condition and service history are far more important. A looked after car with higher k's is generally always better bet than a neglected lower k example. You also pay a large premium for very low k's and usually still require $ to be spent things that wear with age eg fluids, filters, tyres, suspension bushings.