Eagle

Front fog light plug connectors are likely different. May have to cut them off the wrecked car and re-solder if you want to use them.

Yeah im not a fan of modern car design in general but BMW just keep going down hill. 2 series active tourer and 5\6 series GT are couple of the worse BMW's to me. Good examples of BMW trying way too hard to fill every market segment and coming up with abominations.

I meant a manual conversion on 13k 320i for a daily driver isnt worth it, not that a manual for a daily driver isnt worth it in general . A 318is isnt far off from a 320i power wise and would work better for a daily driver. Costs are less for 4 cylinder engines, rest of the car is largely the same. 325i aint bad, its certainly the most robust M5X engine for a few reasons incl iron block but its built more towards top end performance. To me the 328i certainly is the best all rounder and nicest to live with, good low\mid range torque and decent mpg, alloy block so lighter but not an engine you want to overheat . I doubt a M3 is in your budget (25k+) but they are more of a weekend toy. Id recommend driving a few examples within your budget and decide what suits you.

If you want daily driver E36 with decent fuel economy then you be far better off going for a 318i with the DOHC M42 or M44 engine instead. Far easier to work on, less problematic and cheaper to fix than 6 cylinders.

A 320i makes far less power compared to the 2.5 or 2.8L without having noticeable difference in fuel economy (could even be worse depending on your driving). Just doesn't make financial sense to do a proper manual conversion on it especially since its only to be used a a daily driver. You will also loose a chunk of $ if and when you sold it, as a manual converted 320i isn't that valuable or sort after. As above you are better off spending ~10k on a manual 325i or 328i and using the change or maintenance or to tidy it. If you want a project car then you'd be off getting something that's cheap in reasonable condition which you can learn to fix up. You'd likely still spend less than that 320i and have a better car once done. Kilometres don't mean all that much, the 30,000km may have been short trips around town\sitting in traffic\getting in and out. Condition and service history are far more important. A looked after car with higher k's is generally always better bet than a neglected lower k example. You also pay a large premium for very low k's and usually still require $ to be spent things that wear with age eg fluids, filters, tyres, suspension bushings.

Wouldn't be worth doing a manual swap on a 320i imo. You'd want at least least the 2.5L or 2.8L engine to make it worth while. Repairs largely depend on the condition of the car and how it been looked after. If its really only done 30,000km its likely hasnt been used much and may need a proper service (all fluids, filters etc) and a good inspection on a hoist.

Sounds like you need bore scope with a hook. Maybe its in the tube but hard to say unless you know the engines.

Early 740i with the M60 would be my pick. Doesn't quite have the torque but id trade that for not having to open it up for guides and leaks. PCV is a bit flawed but can be upgraded to M62 setup.

'Removed fog lights because they were aiming too high' Either something is damaged or this guy certainly has some sort of mental impairment

Yeah looks like its had little use over the past decade and been stored with some sort of care. Even with the supposed full service history its likely just another overpriced E30 running on 20 year old parts and flaws when you go looking.

Just keep in mind once the center is on the barrel there is going to be some exposed metal that can't be viewed\cleaned. Water, brake dust etc can still get in the gap between the 2 pieces technically causing corrosion to start eventually. I've re-finished a couple of set of style 42 barrels going the polished lip route but ive never dismantled them again to see what the outcome was over a long period. Are those bolts are clear coated or just bare titanium? i dont recall.

I dont see why not provided they are both the same OBC type and similar vintage(maybe backward compatible on that one like LCM's) Did you test the capacitors when you had the old one apart. Ive fixed a couple by replacing them.

Thats around what mine used to run at. Usually around low-mid 90's in most conditions if operating correctly, drops down into high 80's when giving it a work out. The thermostat is rated around 96 or 97 degrees iirc

Personally ive never seen a cable stretch on any car but seizing or binding happens sometimes. Sanding coarse or replace the brake shoes along with rotors usually fixes cars ive had it the cables are free. What was the handbrake like before you did the rotors? Is it holding evenly on both sides on?

Maybe the pricing of them will come down in a year or two.....yeah right haha.

It's not that Hamilton is that good imo, its just the Auckland is that bad. The ring system works ok and is improving but are some major choke points that are ages away from even being addressed\been neglected eg K-Drive\Hospital area Problem is increasing number of people, cars and urban sprawl etc never keeps up with roading infrastructure hole we have dug ourselves into.

Id rather buy a 2nd hand laptop then install ISTA. You could also add INPA,DIS,NCS etc depending on your requirements. Should be easily less than $200 and far more capable than all those cheap scanners.

Refund process can vary in length depending on the situation, but Paypal and Ebay are buyer bias in general. Ive never had a issue in the couple ive done in over a few hundred transactions.

I wouldn't expect them to be any better or worse than all your typical manufacturer dealerships when it comes to washing. The average persons paint correction standards combined with the volume they likely do isn't a good combo

I would given its an average condition Jap import. Better to get a decent condition NZ new example so you get proper plate trim, RF keys, EU2 emissions etc.

Yeah they don't take much force given they are thin alloy outer but at the min you certainly need a spacer of some sort to install

Temp gauge isn't very precise, it basically displays 3 options - cold, wide operating temp range and overheated. You need to access the hidden obc menu while driving to get the real coolant temp reading (easy to see if the thermostat isn't operating correctly also which is a common fault) Adding to the above you really to set the correct level when fully cold, check no air in system or leaks once hot, then re-check the level again when fully cold. Hard to do when you don't own the car unless the owner has a clue, so pretty much have to get it checked by someone else.

To me it seems reasonable package at $700 but depends on what the buyer is wanting it for. I think the cpu\mobo\ram should sell without too much trouble at a little lower price. The rest doesn't have much value to me unless you want another machine to use as is. Someone playing modern higher end games that wants squeeze some more out of it, is going to have to drop ~1k on a new gfx card and a few hundy on a better PSU to handle it. Not so appealing from that stand point given you may as well spend a bit more and get a newer cpu. I bought my 2nd hand 4790k and Asus Ranger VII for $500 in '14.

Yeah they are far from nice engines to work on, but being in a smaller 1 series body certainly makes things harder than the 5 or 7 series.

As above, ATE use 7mm on all calipers regardless of brand. Most hex socket rails will incl a 7mm. You can a 3\8" hex socket rail for cheap which you give you all the common sizes - https://mytools.co.nz/products/toptul-38-drive-inhex-bit-socket-rail-set