Eagle

Depends on the vehicle condition, service history and how much money you want spent. I always change every fluid and filter at the bare minimum if not evidence of it being done. Engine wise i check - plugs, belts and pulleys, cooling system, pcv and intake boots\hoses then clean icv, tb etc and smoke test.

Haha i did the same thing driving a E34 540i back from Christchurch. It wasn't that fun either with many k's of 30kph limited unsealed roads, traffic lights and 12am in the morning.

Dropping the subframe isn't that much work, same basic process on most BMW's. If you installing poly bushings you likely could heat up and knock or use a puller to remove the old ones out and press the new ones in by hand. Bushing can be done with or without dropping the frame.

There are a few generations so not sure which one that applies to. Yeah i dont like them either but i wouldn't buy any Japanese fwd myself. Problem is 3.5k doesn't buy you much and most the older 90's stuff is pretty old and worn out at that price.

+1 Japanese - Mazda Axela, Tidia, Jazz etc are far better choices. Balling on a budget never ends well for the average person.

Price of everything has gone up considerably in these last couple of years. Fuel just taking the spot light currently. Reduced vehicle usage is a good thing but i do feel for poorer people who can't wear the added cost.

Yeah id imagine the real high k ones are used and less likely to be for sale, rather barely used, held\sold for profit. Seen a few E36 M3's with S50 engines in NZ with over 300,000km, not much else.

I think you'd be struggling to find super high k M cars (for good reasons). Id bet most of these E39 M5's need many 1000's spent on them regardless of price\condition to get them back good mechanical state. They are still an older used BMW after all but with added M-tax.

A members car. Its been for sale for awhile, im guessing due to location?. Good buying compared to some given all the work done and tidy condition

Hard to see where the hose goes as its covered, but it looks to have been bypassed probably due to heater core leak

Fair enough. Id just want to see what the sensor is reading especially when it hits limp. E39 540i addiction is hard one to break for some haha

The guy my old W140 sold to already had 2 of them. He was a big Russian though so certainly the type for that car. Unfortunate you have to sell it. Suppose it comes down to how fast you are wanting it gone and the price reflecting that.

Id take it out of another run and monitor the transmission temp. INPA has reading for the t-stat etc also iirc. Maybe the heat exchanger might be partially blocked?

From my limited Mercedes experience they aren't the easiest cars to sell. The older ones certainly dont appear have the fan base numbers in this country like they do in US etc.

Groups are much better than marketplace even though exposure is limited. Supporting scummy trademe is last resort for me these days.

ZF OE kit from FCP etc and Penrite ATF BMV (based on Ford Falcon's ive done with the same box). Probably other brands of fluid that meet the spec but Penrite is easy and cheap to get locally.

No worries then

Id say yes in general but depends on what type of insert?. I know E30's with Bilstein B6\B8 you do not use any oil due to the design so im guessing E34 would be the same in that regard.

Maybe he knew sunroofs are more hassle than they are worth and decided to save some $

He's been trying to sell it for awhile. Don't even know why you do all that work to a rough non msport. If syncro's are bad or depending how bad, then the box isn't worth very much imo (given the cost or if even possible to rebuild) Im sure you can look on US forums, ebay etc to get an idea how much a conversion goes for. Ive only seen the boxes for sale here locally for around 4k, so adding another 1-2k for the rest of the parts id say gets you in a ball park if one was available.

Yeah the higher profile tyres certainly mask the stretch. Crap picture of my old E30 on 205/55R15 15x8 rear with Toyo T1R (soft sidewalls) I recall ride quality and grip was rear grip reduced somewhat though compared to 15x7's. The increased tyre pressure was probably partly responsible.

Do they give you updates for all customized ordered BMW's or is it just a general thing?

Not wrong

Gave the paint a going over with the Meguiar's DA microfiber system. Stopped using foam pads after i tried this as i found it delivers good results for minimal time and outlay. No swirls or holograms so maybe someone has cleaned well over the years or corrected it in the past? @hqstu ?. Got most of the light scratching out leaving some the time consuming deeper ones alone. With thinner clear and stone chips present in certain areas i dont think its worth the risk given the light blue hides defects very good. Ride height has increased a little with the new parts but im a fan of factory lowered height. Yet it scrap it in all the typical situations after a few 100 k's so should limit any bumper damage.

Yeah wouldn't worry about the diff, looks all surface rust to me so wire wheel would clean up that no sweat. I agree about the 6 speed, comment was more aimed at running a 3.38 diff. Will PM you about the flywheel\clutch