Eagle

Some what poverty spec vehicle but looks good, probably needs a 2.8L in it though. Is first E39 ive seen in NZ with a single climate control setup, great bonus since rotary temperature knobs are superior. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3346079202?fbclid=IwAR3x27njiLIWn_Q-rEpchrDof-5FXxNI-OIlEv7PVsSsHbgTWAkczIu2a9E&bof=fhjZSUFI

You'll need a long 18mm spanner or leverage to crack the center bolt which has threadlocker on it. Jaw puller makes taking the bearing off easy. You can use the other half of the driveshaft to tap the bearing on.

Did the hardest job on list - CCV and hoses, plastic water pipes and cleaning. Pipes were still in decent condition but new parts come with peace of mind. Couple of small bits of broken plastic to flush out later from the block, otherwise the heater valve may grab them for me.

A real space cadet. He's too busy to type but not to busy to field phone calls though, probably wont be receiving many at that price so i suppose it works.

Probably easier just to take them into a garage which would probably have a mounted one. All the Wellington guys recommend Auto38, im sure he's done plenty.

I dont remember seeing any like this at his asking price. Bound to be more than meets eye. Fixing those seats alone wouldnt be cheap

What a hori mess

Ive found ride height always raises after a full refresh compared to before. Being new springs you may need to wait a little longer but most E39's etc are driving around on worn suspension.

Finished off the rear suspension - Trialing a set of TRW rear shocks which are suppose to be Msport equivalents (Sachs don't make any now days). RTABS + limiters - old bushings weren't as bad as i expected but are '02 labeled so probably the originals. Front struts done - old ones were completely gone as expected, the weight of a 19mm 1\2" impact socket would compress the piston to near bottom. I only noticed one of the strut towers was mushroomed upon strut removal, likely caused by worn struts and mounts combined with pot holes. Have hammered it flat and will be putting in some reinforcement plates before re-installing.

Always money well spent. It's fatiguing driving a car with worn suspension.

Looks like reps to my eye. Can't see BBS stamped anywhere on those photos either.

Replaced the vanos seals for good measure, the old ones certainly were loose in the bores like some. Head and top valve cover clean as you'd would expect from a car like this.

Mostly comes down to being old, its 1960-1970's tech and 40 year old car. Parts harder to get\more expensive than e28 stuff. Manuals drive ok but 3 speed autos haven't aged well. Engines more problematic than the later M30's.

E12 based E24's aren't very good

@Sammo Haven't sourced one yet but will likely just find a good used one for now at least. They are around the same price as the lower coupling ($~370 NZD local dealer and ~2 week wait). About the same UK pricing by the time you add shipping and tax. RE bearing - Didn't even know it was an issue on these. Was it making any noises or just steering feel?

Made a dent in the list. Only issue was the hack who fitted the rubbish CTE FCAB's and cross threaded the RH threads while he was at it. Luckily the were repairable. FSU decided to start acting up so i had to replace that with a good spare i had. '02 build so may of been original. New genuine lower coupling on the way and will replace the upper as there is some minor play there also. Also fitted the 2x bottom rear window trims @hqstu gave me. Expensive parts for a little improvement.

Yeah its been for sale semi recently as KWS stated. My old 320,000km E34 535is made 171rhwp on Torque performance dyno, 5-10hp more than a similar car on the same day with MAPECU fitted. So many people try to improve performance on cars with even making sure all the EFI components are in good order.

Can't say ive had one issue buying or selling mostly BMW's, but im sure the trash count is much more than it used to be given the Japan>Euro migration.

Try Chartwell Panel and Paint. We use them for our work and they appear to have very reasonable prices for their work.

By the time you refresh the suspension, fix all the hopefully minor engine issues its bound to have, then do some preventative maintenance its doesnt look so cheap. At least after that it should be a better car than most of the 10k ones.

You going to put it on a dyno? Would be interesting to get an idea of how much power its putting down.

Spotted this yesterday as well, who know what issues its got though im guessing its why its going via Turners. There a few non M SMG's around (just bought one my self) The box is modified ZF 5 speed with mainly rear section being different. You can't easily convert the box to manual like the M3 versions as they don't use an external shifter rod, hence no where to attach any linkages. Driveshaft, cross member and diff are all the same as manuals though so you get half a manual conversion already.

I bought an E30 ~10 years ago after soley owning half a dozen E34\E32's. Everyone was talking about them then and most of this board owned one in those days. They were great cars for money back then (still are minus the money part) but no BMW really else drives and looks like them whilst still being available and mostly financially obtainable. If you think E34 are under valved go look at E36 Ti's prices, basically the E30 driving experience without most of the common issues. They just happen suffer from not looking very good for a BMW during 90's and not many 6 cylinders made, otherwise they would probably be far more popular. 3 series will always be more popular than 5 series for smaller car reasons, lower numbers of 5 series manuals doesn't help things.

E46 coupes are already worth more than the equivalent 6 cylinder E39, being more popular they have already won that race. Maybe they will surpass 4 door E46's.

Its been for sale for around 1 year iirc