Eagle

Can't see the bottom end needing any work if its not using oil besides a possible oil pump refresh. Still could see the honing marks on my 450,000 and 550,000 M30B35 when i did the headgaskets.

BMW handbook lists the automatic sedan at just over 1600kg with full tank of gas, driver but no options so unlikely much more than 1700kg with a\c, towbar, sunroof etc. They do have full alloy suspension and subframes after all and aren't a large car by today standards. Manual is better but too rare. Still adequate power for most driving even with 230hp and the auto. Excellent chassis and looks is what makes them better than anything else in the same class and era.

TU strikes again

Most of the ones seen this year on facebook were asking 4-6k. They were what id class as average examples. Hard to find ones that dont drive and handle sloppy, most need a lot of suspension and steering work to get them to some sort of standard. I think owners generally tend to hold onto the actual good examples these days. Unless your run is lots of highway then imo a E46 is the better choice for run around, much more availability and easier to get bits for.

If your car has DSC you are going to need a master cylinder with DSC ports and sensors. If you dont have DSC you'd ideally want a cylinder without added bits but you can likely still use a DSC one if you plug unneeded ports on the cylinder.

@hqstu has passed the torch onto me so i thought id just continue adding to this thread. Lots of time and money already gone into this so just taking it to next level mechanically whilst keeping it original as i can. Cosmetically it's pretty much already sorted for me apart from a few trim bits i need to install. Still looks tidy despite the age and k's, only really let down by the classic NZ stone chips on the grill and bonnet which require a proper respray to sort. Engine wise its same as above, again Stuart has done a good job here. Engine still pulls strong like most higher k's NZ new cars ive owned. Vanos seals will be done for a likely improvement. Very minor seepage from high pressure power steering hose and rear main seal, otherwise one of the cleanest well running M5X's ive seen. SSG transmission takes a bit of getting used to, it can be shifted quite smooth in lower gears\rpm around town once you adapt but its really at home under sprinted driving using 3-5th gear. Still prefer the manual overall but it's far more enjoyable than the 5 speed auto. Suspension is average BMW, it appears most parts are still original items as expected but beside front bump stops nothing has outright failed. This is the main focus for me and is always money well spent in my experience. Steering isn't as razor sharp as it should be. There slop in the linkage from rubber steering coupler which is past its used by date. This will be replaced with poly version of some sorts due to cost\availability of genuine RHD one. Doing that along with the front control arm bushings should vastly improve steering response. Tyres appear to be flat spotted somewhat which is likely the cause of minor shimmy at highway speeds (lesser degree once warmed up). Re-balance, alignment and new parts installed along with more driving should help that. Following parts have\will be ordered: Sachs front struts with mounts and bump stops Sachs rear shocks with Meyle HD mounts Meyle HD front control arm bushings Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings and ball joints with limiters TRW brake rotors front and rear to go with supplied Akebone ceramic pads Brake hoses front and rear Caliper guide bushings front and rear Vanos seals 2x coolant pipes under manifold with associated seals and CCV + hoses (for piece of mind) Hood struts Front and rear sway bar bushings (maybe poly, genuine ones seem overpriced) Future: O2 sensors (reading slow) Rest of rear control and subframe bushings (will re-evaluate once above suspension parts done) Inspect clutch\flywheel and driveshaft. Replace flex disc and hanger bearing\support same time.

Way too ghetto looking to me especially with those hideous wheels.

I live 10mins from Cambridge so can probably take a look if wanted. Both my facelift E30's never had rust, both NZ new and paint condition says they were probably garaged most of their life.

Usually have a collector which mounts them together somewhere on the body. The tailight end plug\connector terminals are where the problems are of the time in my experience. Easy to check.

Id be checking the rear light bulb holders and contacts then the wiring if needed. Bad grounding usually the issue.

Are the shifter and knob aftermarket parts?

If it happened when you filled up then it could be a leak from the fuel gauge sender unit, crack in the plastic or gasket has failed. Take the plates off under the rear seat and check both sender and the pump. You should see\smell fuel mixed with dust\dirt if this is the case.

Thanks to Stuart for doing most of the hard work

Sort of like yours - https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/291680492536893/?media_id=1&ref=share_attachment Better deal i reckon if you going modified route

Yeah i was thinking W211 but id imagine its still the better buy.

Don't see the point when you can buy a C63 or E63 wagon for similar money.

Penrite ATF FS. Probably the easiest to source and cheapest option in NZ

Penrite Superdot4 for street usage. Available in 4L if required. HPR in 20L box on special at Repco etc. Think i paid ~170 odd a year or so back. Penrite Green as it's cheap and easily available, but any HOAT type that meets BMW specs is fine. Needing to use BMW stuff is nonsense with the options around out now days. I've always used Redline oils in BMW manual transmissions as its always given me good results in regards to shift quality. Plenty of other decent full synthetic options though. Penrite Progear 75W-90, but It's a open diff im guessing so what ever you feel like putting in\spending.

Many manufactures would be out of business if that were true

It's an easy swap with a Ti donor car.

Don't see any point in changing it myself. A M40 is never going to be great on the open road and going lower ratio is sacrifice what little acceleration you already have.

Cheap imports here in NZ are offset by having to import parts to keep maintenance costs down. Hate to think how much ive spent on shipping from 15 years of buying overseas.

318ti diff would work with your car but may need flanges etc swapped with E30 stuff worst case. 318ti auto's run a 4.44 diff so you'd have to check the diff tag on yours to see what ratio its running. As for M42 preventative maintenance - Mess of pipes under the intake manifold and associated gaskets is the big one, followed by the PCV and breather hose, chain tensioner then all the usual stuff like oil gaskets\seals, intake boots, drivebelt parts, cooling system parts and hoses. Depends on how far you want to go.

If you have checked the new parts are correct then it's probably a misalignment, those plastic clutch alignment tools aren't that great for alignment compared to the proper tool. Sometimes i will use bell housing bolts to evenly draw the transmission in the last little bit its not perfectly centered (slowly and by hand and you can damage things if its not very close to alignment )

No point. Youshop is expensive and slow compared and always collects GST. Much cheaper with FCP Fedex.