Eagle

Certainly not fast by today standards but still adequate for everyday usage. Most F10 550's will be standing still in the wreckers yard in the near future so i wouldn't worry too much about it. Least you got the only reliable V8 BMW has or ever will make.

Yeah no doubt, but the number of true enthusiasts with open wallets is much smaller percentage than the average cost considerate buyer.

Im not replacing mine and it's saved me heaps of money.

"if it doesn't sell ill keep it". Classic line for when trying to sell an overpriced vehicle. Needs stupid offers for stupid description.

Interior colour isn't the most popular. K's dont mean too much at this age, service history\condition is more important. 5k-7k depending on what's been done and what need to be done (always is)

Pretensioner units re-webbed no issue via the authorized repairer (I send at least one down a month to Autosafe in Chch)

It looks like a good tool for difficult engines or a time saver in business capacity. BMW engines are easy to bleed. I don't see the point of it for the cost\quality in average DIY usage.

I dont know what Alpina have modified about it but 5hp19 is pretty smooth transmission. The TC lockup is a more gradually controlled transition. I would expect it more 'slushy' than the Audi 4hp which is probably on\off type lockup. Not sure what '..take a moment to come out of it' part means? If you have diagnostic software you should be able to see what the TC is doing in regards to lockup based on your throttle inputs. Was an adaption reset done when they changed the fluid?

Both have 4cyl money pit petrol engines.

What ive used since forever. It's the most durable for the application in my experience.

So your car has EDC suspension if that part number you been given is correct? Whats your VIN number? Do you wires coming out of the top strut mounts? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-assembly-e34-edc-31316750030#description If so you'd going have to convert to convention setup with new mounts at least because those strut aren't available or not economical to buy.

Micksgarage are probably the cheapest shipping for heavy parts ive come across. The selection isnt the greatest though on some vehicles. Rockauto can be hit or miss on shipping. Recently FCP was much cheaper to ship a pair of E36 struts both using Fedex.

Just about everything on this planet has gone up considerably in these last few years. Probably cheaper to just buy a manual E46 manual given you have to pay some one to convert. They are still semi affordable atm.

Or smart business if you a BMW exec

ZF boxes go for $2000 just by themselves these days so a properly done conversion with new components would be easy 5k just in parts Cert is technically required by if using all OE drive line parts its not likely to be picked up or non issue

You have to buy the whole assembly which has the lines,regulator and float attached. Another N series money sink at $193.50 USD + shipping from FCP. Probably better off back flushing it to see what its like.

Yeah shouldn't be using any sort of grease on them. Id clean it off the parts and try with dish soap instead.

Brake fluid is the weak point. Fresh high temp fluid before every track day is what i subscribe to. I found OEM pads ie Jurid etc usually handled half a dozen lap sessions well enough on my 80-90's era BM's with good fluid. Pagid RS421 are what i used to run on E34 for street and occasional track day. Expensive but no complaints.

+1 Jatco

I think your giving the pieces of sh*t too much credit for their intelligence. The damage stated above is nothing if you fix yourself besides labor. Rain getting is a problem though if its going to sit outside for who knows how long. Hopefully you can save it as they are certainly the cheapest and most reliable BMW you can buy at this point.

Well spec'd and appears to be in good cosmetic condition but way overpriced imo. No mention of service history so mechanically its likely on mostly original parts, fluids and probably has areas that need attention.

Used all common models ( B4-B8 ) with various lowering springs, mostly in older models. I did have B8's re-valved to match to H&R springs on my old E30 which improved damping over certain surfaces. I didn't think think they were too bad but many factors to consider. In saying that i prefer Koni's especially if you using std springs. Down side is rebound adjustment in rear on E39 isnt that easy to do (if adjustment required after install) Shox.com is where ive got my Koni in the past for a decent price.

I used MS1 struts on my ACS Msport 2 springs no problem. I don't really get why you'd spend all that money on new MS2 shocks and springs? You can probably get Bilsteins or Koni's with springs for less cost and better performance.

"There were some guides and sleeves missing that would have made this mistake nearly impossible" Least its a typical N series motor then