Eagle

Oh right. Never had any trouble with my motive one but i only use it for pressurizing the reservoir so don't actual fill it up.

I believe the proper BMW tool is a metal plate which you bolt the slave onto and wind in the bolts compressing the rod. You can do it yourself with a one man bleeder system and pushing the rod by hand or against the bellhousing etc depending on how strong you are. Helps to have some keep watch the fluid level though. Are you are talking about too much pressure pushing the cylinder out the bore? I suppose you could always reverse bleed with a decent syringe

If you are sure there is no air in the system then its likely the master. Ive always had to remove the slave, rotate it with the bleeder is facing upwards then push in the rod while the bleed screw is open to get out the trapped air. A lot easier with pressure bleeder.

LPG torch would have it off in a few mins with that puller on it. Don't know if it heat gun would generate enough heat doing the same but you could try. Otherwise it may be less hassle to pay a garage etc to do the heating part.

Probably not if you have to remove them twice but still a good upgrade for any car, not as hard to install as i expected. In my experience ive never felt any difference when using stiffer(street grade poly bushings) as opposed to good condition OEM rubber.

Wheels certainly make the difference. Id measure the front ride height and check it after a few days of driving, mine ended up settling some more making my first alignment at BMW a big money waster. No holders\surrounds are for weight reduction. Need some M-sport swaybars if anything.

Yeah ive bought some well priced stuff at the dealers lately but i dont know how far that extends or for how long. It maybe new old stock given the car. It wouldn't surprise me if the ones complaining buy other products from overseas for personal use to save money instead of buying the product locally, not many people would pay 2x or more for the same product given the choice. Saving money usually requires putting in some time\effort which is why more probably don't do it. For me the Govt\IRD is the only winner here, the local business point is a baseless empathic spin for those who are are lacking foresight.

What are the springs?

They can't even price it realistically so what would they know about covers

Yeah im well aware but sometimes its not worth using them it due to excessive shipping costs. USPS were the best in my experience but they all are expensive these days. Id hate to know the amount of $ ive spent on postage from overseas.

Just pick it up in 2 years for half the price, similar mileage and add it on

That's why i usually do multiple orders under $400, spaced apart. Im sure it ends up costing more long term in shipping costs but as soon as Customs (also NZ post these days) are involved the process slows to a crawl. It's a lot of work to make a simple GST payment at the moment.

What pads did you get out of interest?

I think its safe to assume 'yes'

Given that Mercedes demographic are the younger crowd these days, i guess they gotta do that type of thing.

After owning 3x 7 series V12's, i got to say most just aren't worth it over the V8 unless its an actual well kept example.

Amp should be plug and play provided its the correct type. Android units connect to the existing factory setup. If you got 'screen type radio' then you would need to buy the extended radio wiring harness, you would then have to run this from the new head unit to the boot to connect into the radio module (which controls the amp, speakers, radio)

It's all relative, an E60 M5 ain't that fast either if that helps.

Ive used Mintex ones in the past here and there without issue but ive never had a problem with any brand rotors tbh No idea about NZAD ones you'd have to ask them, they are likely made in China like the vast majority. If they can handle multiply track days they are good enough for me, i don't particularly care where things are made these days as long as the quality is up to standard. Given BMW rotors have basically no room to work and wear quick you are replacing them fairly often, so i don't see the point of expensive rotors on most cars. Pad choice is much more critical imo. If you can get ATE ones for a good price then go for it.

Not saying anything critically wrong with their rotors or pads but Techstop are a low end brand, ive fitted many set of their pads and rotors to cars but id never put them on my own car. Local generic option is NZAD @ $414 a pair. Yet to hear anything negative, i and others have used them on all sort of cars and driving over the years. Best International option is Micks Garage if you wanted a Mintex set @ $285 a pair shipped. They have always turned up in 10 days or less for me.

I can understand buying car to flick but justifying a 4k premium due to the 'extras added' is grasping

If it stays on it would have logged a fault code and you'd have to get it scanned to accurately pinpoint the problem. Kerry at Mosen Europarts will help you out in that regard.

No idea what 'new shape' is suppose to mean given its a pre-facelift and were are in 2019. +1 to what Dave says. They are cheap for valid reasons.

Assumed everyone who worked on their car would have a vice haha, my one come off really easy in a vice with a little heat applied. My bfg is reversed for angry management sessions particularly on asian cars.

From what you say it's most likely seated incorrectly due to inadequate lubrication of o-rings and\or the surface not being prepared properly (smooth to touch). I did my own car yesterday and used a small wire brush then green scotch bite to clean and a flush to finish. Used a coating of tap grease (in my case) on both o-rings and holes to prevent any damage upon install and make it easier to fit. I doubt Repco would have anything. I use seal innovations for most of my o-rings but you could try the dealer.