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So ive been lurking around here for a while with the odd post here and there soaking up the knowledge of everyone, doing basic modifications etc but have now taken on the task of a build project......wont be breaking any records with getting this build done but plan on doing as much of it as i possibly can myself, with the limited skill and tools i have. so here's where we start: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/49440-1990-e30-project/ Here's were we currently sit. Then i purchased a dereged E34 525 to pull all the bits i needed for the M50 conversion so after a lengthy list from pelican parts i have the motor sitting awaiting all new seals and gaskets Mean while the suspension is getting a full upgrade with a 5 stud conversion with all new bushes, ball joints and links through out and some braided brake lines while its all apart. Have just ordered custom spec'd XYZ coilovers to bring it down to a more inspiring height. Spent a weekend scrubbing all the dirt out from every crack and crevice of the underbody and cleaning it all up and painting it back again. The interior has been stripped to A:) check for rust in the floor B:) to clean, scrub and dye the interior carpets. Recaro LS seats have been purchased to fit in the front, and rear trims will be re-bolstered and trimmed to match. Lots of little miscellaneous parts have been sourced to help this project along, M20 flywheel (to be lightened and starter), Fuzzfabrics Custom e30 houndstooth gear lever and handbrake boot. E36 engine arms, e36 steering rack. Renault Booster. Mtech 1 rear spoiler. Still to purchase: Manual Gearbox conversion Walbro Fuel Pump Wheels Copper Spacer & Cut-ring gasket ARP Head studs Turbo - still to decide HX35 or 30, Garret TA3410 looking for quicker spoil than massive outright power. Injectors, wastegate and all the extras that go along with a turbo build. Next on the to do list is sort the little bits of rust in the bottom of the A pillars and around the rubber seal in the boot. Meanwhile the list of parts grows. Will update this as progress continues and ask silly questions where needed along the way

Bit more progress done today while I wait for new parts. HUGE thanks to Josh for helping me clean and re-solder the Vanos actuators. Vanos hubs and spring plate diaphragms removed but not before the upper chain cover comes off, there is a real b@stard of a bolt to get to, you can only turn it one flat at a time with a ring spanner, patience level 100 unlocked. The spring plates changed after 9/2001, these were made thicker, and the concaved plate is intalled back to front compared to the old style. This apparently helps significantly with vanos rattle, we'll see.

its probably WHY you have that idea lol S2000 seems a good buy all round

So after changing my mind numerous times on engine options I have gone 6ltr LS (L98) with 6spd tremec. Roll cage has been started. Still need some advice on the rear end Ideas I do have a winters quick change I am considering using. Any advice would be appreciated

Hey team I picked up my first BMW in Auckland last weekend. It's a 07 325i motorsport. Looking foward to some cruises around Wellington.

i must be sick in the head, i love seeing photos of vanos rebuilds. Vanos units are such cool pieces of engineering. Excellent work.

Dave, it is bound to be a fault in the radio tuner (this was mentioned in the other thread). They are common to fail with dry joints on one of the boards inside. In the E38, it is located on the very inside (nearest the guard) in the group of units in L/H rear corner. I have repaired a few of these over the years, some successful & a couple not.

Even though you necro'd a thread, this would be cool if they were available again

Thinking of selling my NZ New 2000, 3.2 manual Z3M Coupe to fund another Car, VGC, 56,000 km's, FSH with Black & Blue full leather interior, expressions of interest sought. $42,000 https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=hMy808

No worries. I hope to be having a look tomorrow - just waiting to hear from the guy who has it at the moment.

I went into the workshop today to check out progress and do a bit of wiring - sometime handy being an electronics engineer... It's looking pretty good. Everything is in except: Coolant Overflow Bottle - doesn't fit on the all alloy radiator. This will be mounted elsewhere. Driveshaft - the wrong front half was supplied and doesn't fit - looks like it came off a 318. The correct one will be sent out on Monday. Today I installed the Link ECU, changed the wiring for the AIT sensor (as we're using a LInk one in the inlet pipe vs the BMW one in the manifold), installed the relay and wiring for the 1980CFM electric fan and connected the relay control to the old pirge-valve cabling. The USB lead from the Link ECU was also put through into the glovebox for easy in-car access. Left to do is create a 1mm alloy sheet air duct for the bottom of the radiator - removing the airconditioning cooler also took out all the air directors and surrounds so new ones must be fabricated of most of the air will bypass the radiator and go under the car. Here's the engine installed now looking like a M52 due to the M52 Vanos, Cam Cover, Coils and Oil Filter Housing More pics to come of the gearbox etc.

S62 in between the strut towers. That's all.

I wouldn't clear coat the lips if they are polished for several reasons. One being that it dulls the finish no matter what you do. Secondly it will chip very soon after because the paint has nothing to stick to. I speak from experience because I did this with a set of wheels, whith proper paint and a gun not spray paint (and I am not new to painting either). Some paints will last longer than others, but eventually they all chip or peel and then you have to recoat the whole thing, no way to fix it. On my e28 I polished the lips and simply spray with silicone spray after every wash. Every once in a while you can go over them with a metal polish like Autosol to bring them back to 100%, but I've left them for months before and they only needed a light polish. My car lives outside 100% of the time.

my mate with a e36 328Ti track car has put his hand up for it , but im not sure I want to give him that advantage

s2000s are amazing little cars. Very reliable and a great engine and box. Only real issue with s2000 is that they hold their value so you have to be damn quick to pick one up for cheap. I wouldnt touch a merc either, but im very biased (which is funny considering my current employment).

Let me know Graham! I would be so keen on some asap I Have wheels but could always be tempted!

welcome to e30 ownership. you are now better than everyone else by default.

still deciding weather to leave the 2.8L in or swap it out for a 3L clutch/flywheel will need doing I think

Easier to stay at home on the benefit than learn skills and get a job.

I've had pretty good success with Tergo paint stripper. Apply it with a brush and cover the wheel with some gladwrap to keep the fumes in (a trick the guy at the paint shop told me, supposed to make it have stronger affect), then water blast the stipper and paint off. Might have to do it more than once but it's the easiest way labour wise.

I'm probably a teensy bit older than the sort of person you're looking for but if I could get time off, I'd be there like a shot. My daughter is on holiday and would enjoy it, but doesn't have a license.

No Joy... spinning spanners and oil might soil their fingers and hands may be. And we open before 10am

Price updated to $42,000..

could easily spend $4k at each WOF, thats why they are $4k now.

Yes very good point.

Nothing wrong with the system if it's serviced and adjusted correctly using the proper tools and correct parts within the tolerance guidelines

Are you sure? It was a 5 series

Indeed Justin. Policing tyres can't be done in the same ease and manner of putting a lame duck in a car with a laser gun to get results err profit.

This is the design which I am proposing. I think it's a cleaner look without the text on the frame and also having just silver/white stars means that it will suit more cars. "less is more" they say.

I have a 2007 E90 325 Motorsport (Japanese import, to New Zealand). The common wisdom seems to be that the actual radio hardware (or 'CCC') needs to be replaced for the radio to work in New Zealand and receive all radio stations. Am pleased to say that it appears that this is not actually the case.. This afternoon Renming (also on this forum) came around and recoded the radio for me, and I now have a fully functioning, effectively NZ new radio, with all the station tags functioning. Am very happy with it. For anyone in New Zealand, certainly would recommend getting in touch with him. He's done some jobs for people overseas too. Contact below: Renming http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showuser=3772 Thanks Renming - really good work.