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Hope you all have a great Christmas and a Happy New Year. Behave yourselves and play safe out there on our roads. We are closed from the 22nd Dec to the 5th Jan You can contact us through our new website for bookings or help. http://botanymotorworx.co.nz/

99% Done for now, Majority of the last freakin month and a half was getting the exhaust headers fitted with the V bands to sit in a suitable space, Plus they are an absolute nightmare to fit with the motor in. Hopefully won't be touching them for a long while. Also had the Driveshaft hoops done. Went in for it's cert last week, didn't have any issues except for needing to provide some documentation for E30 vs Z3 rack to ensure no pivot points had been changed, Just emailed them the E30Wiki and a Googled picture of E30 vs Z3 rack which sufficed. Today the cert plate was mounted Actually doesn't ride as bad as I thought with coilovers, abit more noisy but handles well I missed the quick Z3 rack for sure after driving a fully stock E30 round for the last 6 months it's crazy how different they feel and how much better this one handles, very sharp responsive steering. Still to do: Look at raising the Idle RPM abit, Flywheel is noisy as hell and rattles until I give it the lightest bit of throttle to about 900 and it's good. Finish the last 1/3rd of the exhaust from subframe back it's joined to my old 2.5" Coby + Magnaflow, too loud for my liking but I intended on getting some Borla mufflers from Summit racing early next year anyway.

Parked to do some last minute Xmas shopping and this followed me in. Owner was a nice guy and has appropriately had the E24 for 24 years!

In real world terms - I don't think generally it has anything to really do with the oil you put in your car, its more to do with how its driven (cold startup etc) and neglect as to why bearings fail. The 'going bang' issue was more a oil starvation issue with the reversed sump and oil pickup design under hard braking and transition to cornering. The S engines have tighter tolerances than normal but most oil that OEMs choose is more based on stability under longer service intervals than out right performance under extreme conditions.

Flash back to original Post # 1 in this thread, May 2013 "Just keeping it pretty OEM.. Resisting temptation to m50 it or something though hah."

"I think Polly summed it up once in a thread, buy some bloody oil, change the filter, do an oil change, close the bonnet and just go enjoy your car." Yep, thats what I do. I own a car that is 22 years old. The oil I put in it now has a level of technology that is well past the level of technology BMW had in it's original design. I buy some 'decent' oil, not the best, and well past the worse, it's either Castrol or something, it's synthetic and it gets changed regularly with an oil filter every second one. If I had an M3 or M5 or something, I would just buy the best whatever, that's a different level altogether.

Please share the results, they'll be devoured by the internet. Castrol themselves say SN EDGE is equivalent to TWS. Most (myself included) do not believe they make TWS with unicorn blood.

M60B30 looks identical so beware.. If you have the ECU, it will have the VIN on it, use that to pull up the build sheet, it will tell you what motor it is. Otherwise the code alongside the engine number will tell you the capacity.

Saw this at the mall

Interesting video on the BMW M10 F1 engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5Dbp_SuMHE

Swap for an E39 M5 ? :-)

Have run it on several cars for the past 10 years ... no issues ever. Infact Jamez ran it for 4 years in his race car that only ever saw extreme conditions, engine started with 80,000ks on it ... and was compeditive and still had all factory hoan marks when he dismantelled it for a routine rebuild. This meant that he didnt actually need to rebuild it. I wouldnt believe everything youre told on the internet or around some traps. I prefer to rely on proven race performance. At the end of the day as long as you select a good mid range oil which is matched to you temprature condition of where you live (again a non issue in New Zealands mild temprature range) and you maintain oil change schedules you car will last you 300-500ks easy. I would be more worried about cam lobe wear than bearing failure in this case. I think Polly summed it up once in a thread, buy some bloody oil, change the filter, do an oil change, close the bonnet and just go enjoy your car.

i used 3/4 inch DD shaft and got the correct U joints that fit the e30 spline and the z3 rack spline. Ergen Motorsport in the UK do a plug and play bolt in brake booster relocation kit with a small servo and master cylinder to suit.

Yes. Unfortunately a simple registration error on import. The vin on the car matches all details on car jam. Is an 88 touring. Was at the Euro Car Club meet a few weekends back. If you would like to view and test drive it is available in Castor Bay each evening except Christmas. Call me on 0275050303.

So sweet! All the hard work has payed off, bring on the summer cruising!

a2 logistics

Colour and make up completely different. Got a bottle of both and chucked each in a cup. TWS noticeably green in colour vs a honey colour in the standard SN. Might also add those who I personally know that have used SN have had rods go and other issues. I'd stay clear.. For the sake of $10-$20 difference between the two, why the hell would anyone bother risking it? Keen to send away to lab and test both out scientifically.. But may be seen as taking it to far.. Hmm

http://www.motortrend.com/news/bmw-e30-wagon-takes-on-2016-bmw-340i-on-ignition-wvideo/ This was awesome. I guess NZ might have a few hot E30's that would be up to the grade of this one?

Badass

This was on one of the BMW Facebook pages recently and I queried that. Owner assured me it was just a registration error and that 95 was the year it was brought in or something. Imagine how many times you'd have to explain that if you ever took it to a euro meet 0.o Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

Glenn(NUSTAD) sent me this today that he spotted. So I dont have the only one in NZ after all. And I'm not dissapointed about it either..lol 2000 750i with the M sport package. low kms at 117k and I want it so bad...lol

Very nice seats, I reckon they wouldn't quite look right in anything but an M3 though!

i like your car.

Bit overdue as i've been taking pics/vids and forgetting to post. First up, Genuine E30 M3 destroked to 2.0L with a hairdryer on the side. Right Hook 635CSI (Auto ) Mint Condition E28 M535 And saw this E30 while cruising one day. And this 740 that sounded like it was Manual, checked the VIN and it was originally auto, but the way it took off and changed up/down sounded very manual.

perfect "dont open ya f**kin door on my car" parking

OK - this one is perhaps not quite so cheap, but it's not ridiculously expensive either. All the same, probably best to check you will actually need it before caving in to the collecting tools fetish. http://www.tite-reach.com/

typing a monster update on a build thread, accidentally click off the box, press back space, the page jumps back and loose the bloody lot. Lets try that again on MS word where i can save....

Vibration solved rubber mounts worked a treat they cost $30 but well worth it to stop the vibration

Still trying to track em down... They have to be here somewhere

First 335i I ever drove was the 335d...i was so damm impressed at it! , but hated the sound of it lol and the salesman wouldn't budge on price.....(car is still on the yard for sale lol 2 years later!!) Here's a thread about the alternative flashes for the Transmission http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22180 TQ, wait till you run ethanol on the 335i.... here's a mate chasing me at hamptons in his e60 m5