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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/18 in Posts
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6 pointsE10 should be ok, but if you want the full performance you need to use the good stuff. I don't want to sound like an a55h0le but if you can't afford to run your M5 on 98, you can't really afford to own an M5.
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3 pointsOf course. Its just surprising that the current government has broken more election promises in the first six months than the last one did in nine years.
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3 pointsNow with CSL wheels, no stripes. Clean and classy. Nostripes4 by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Nostripes6 by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Nostripes3 by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Nostripes2 by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Nostripes1 by Christian Taylor, on Flickr Let's see how long this lasts..!
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3 pointsIt makes me laugh that people invite realistic offers but provide no indication what they view a realistic offer to be. That coupled with the sellers attitude would count me out. Also interesting that they mention the bad pixels being an inexpensive fix yet they've not bothered doing on their "pride and joy". Nice car yeah, but no thanks.
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2 points
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2 pointsNot by welding. You will end up with an internal engine fire or explosion. Most adhesives and glues will not stick to oil contaminated surfaces and will not tolerate hot / cold cycles- another sump & gasket for a reliable fix
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2 pointshttps://www.trademe.co.nz/1619210198 Bloody good buy I reckon for 9k. better get in quick though. I think the E60 is probably going to be your best friend. It is very affordable now and plenty to choose from in heaps of different colour/options/spec on the market varying from 9k all the way up to past your budget. but something around 10-13k would be a good price and leaves you with a couple thousand left over to do some basic servicing like oils filters maybe belts pulleys cooling system etc and you are away laughing for a couple years easy.
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2 pointsZ1 spotted yesterday, parked up behind it and got a couple of pics - Remuera Auckland, not my personal fave but don't see many , if any around
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1 pointHey guys, welcome to my new E36 project. I haven't ever created a project log as I've never really had a car for long enough.. This car is a 1995 Pre-facelift 328i E36 factory manual NZ new coupe. She has done 260,000kms but has a fair bit of service history and has been well looked after so I'm confident that it's a good starting point. My plan for it initially is to service, modify and refine it. I won't be doing anything too drastic as it is my daily driver at this stage. The plan after that is to start stripping it out and making it a road/track car i.e half cage, semi-slicks, LSD, 330 brakes etc etc etc. The idea in a nutshell is to have a car which I can drive on the street and have it still be relatively functional but also use on the track on the odd weekend and be able to drive it home- no trailer. That's all for now, keep your eyes peeled for updates. Although this is E36 #15 for me, I should be keeping it a while this time.. Time to commit! *Oh! And it has NOS by the way.. more on that later My to-do list with prices is as follows. Some of these mods will be fairly long term goals and may not happen. I don't see many prices put against parts for other build threads so hopefully this will be useful for people looking to do something similar to this. Engine: -'230hp' DME upgrade with EWS delete, ABS fix, 7000 rpm rev limited and rev hang fix. $250 (Mates rates) -Cat/schrick cams -M3 headers -M50 manifold -Waterpump with steel impeller -Rebuild head. P&P if there are significant benefits, lap valves, new valve stem seals, head gasket, head bolts etc -Clutch fan delete -Aux fan install -Engine mounts -New rear main seal $55 -Beisan Systems Vanos rebuild -New NGK spark plugs $58.50 -Oil change+ filter About $100 -Fuel filter -Diff oil -Replace any perished vacuum lines etc -Clean ICV and PCV -Plastic rocker cover $80 -New rocker cover gasket $105 -Fenix radiator -Sump gasket -Fill NOS bottle Sold NOS kit Drivetrain: -New slave and master cylinder -Braided clutch line -New guibo -Gearbox mounts (Powerflex/Nolathane) -Single mass light-weight flywheel and heavy duty clutch disk and pressure plate $1250 -Rebuild shifter linkages -Z3 short shifter -ZHP gearknob $150 -Gearbox fluid change About $20. Used half of the $40 bottle -Replace center bearing -KBM/ second-hand medium case LSD Brakes: -E46 330 front calipers $250 including rotors. -E46 328 rear calipers $60 -Stoptech/Goodridge braided brake lines -Pagid/EBC yellowstuff pads -Slotted rotors all round Suspension, bracing, steering: -New E36 standard front control arms $310 -Powerflex M3 3.0 Offset LCABs $130 -Powerflex RTABs $130 -Convertible X-brace $215 with nutserts. -Powerflex rear subframe mounting bushes -Ultra Racing strut braces F+R -Nolathane Sway-bar bushes F+R -XYZ/BC gold coilovers $870 -Powerflex camber arms $400 -Front and rear strut tower reinforcement plates Interior: -Remove rear front and rear seats, carpet and sound deadening. -Remove headunit, sub and amp. -NZKW bucket seats, rails and subframe brackets $1000 for 2nd hand Racetech RT1000s with NZKW subframes. -Mtech 2 Steering wheel -Remove boot trims, linings and spare wheel -Infill plates for drivers and passenger foot well. -Tidy up wiring and remove SRS -Tidy up door cards (Already pretty good) Sold complete interior for $500 Body and cosmetic: -Fancy wide rear diffuser or similar -GT front lip -PDR for significant dents -Gas struts for bonnet and boot $50 -Replace door handle rubber seals -Replace rear vent window weather strip rubber -Replace windscreen plastic cowl Wheels and tyres: -TBC. Currently have a square set of 7.5' style 24s. Likely to keep these as my street wheels and buy a relatively cheap set of 17x8s with usable semi-slicks. Replaced with BBS RK 17x8 -2x Half worn Dunlop semi-slicks for front wheels- $36 from TradeMe Exhaust: -TBC. SS mid-section and rear if budget permits.. Most likely a cheaper 2-1 from headers to mid-section, resonator and off the shelf 'euro' style muffler.
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1 pointVery rare set of wheels, originally an option for e31 8 series. Front 8Jx17H2 IS10 Rear 9Jx17H2 IS19 Mad lip Will polish up nicely once rattle can paint has been stripped (P.O.) Centres absent. Small inconsequential hairline crack welded for piece of mind, spun by local tyre shop who can provide report for buyer. Happy to ship at buyers risk/expense. I can’t stress how unusual these wheels are, looking to simply recover costs. Wife says too many wheels....... asking $1200
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1 pointBmw e46 coupe 328ci Rare 5 speed manual 2.8L twincam 6 cylinder 192HP Very torquey and pretty economical Nz new Black leather sport seats , silver trims Factory radio tape and cd stacker New wof and reg In papakura for vIewIng 021433600 $7000ono build sheet details VIN WBABM52080JM10138 Type code BM52 Type 328CI (EUR) E series E46 (2) Series 3 Type COUPE Steering RL Doors 2 Engine M52/TU Displacement 2.80 Power 142 Drive HECK Transmission MECH Colour COSMOSSCHWARZ METALLIC (303) Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/SCHWARZ (N6SW) Prod.date 1999-03-23 Vehicle options S168 EU2 exhaust emissions standard S226 Sports suspension settings S290 BMW light-alloy wheel star spokes 44 S302 Alarm system S431 Interior mirror with automatic-dip S438 Fine wood trim S441 Smoker package S459 Seat adjuster, electric, with memory S481 Sports seat S508 Park Distance Control (PDC) S534 Automatic air conditioning S548 Kilometer-calibrated speedometer S661 Radio BMW Business (C43) S672 CD changer for 6 CDs S850 Dummy-SALAPA Vehicle options S864 Retailer Directory Overseas S880 On-board vehicle literature English S925 Dummy-SALAPA Vehicle options S255 Sports leather steering wheel S473 Armrest front S520 Fog lights S550 On-board computer S832 Battery in luggage compartment S853 Language version English
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1 pointSOLD Selling my bmw 633csi 1980 $8500 or near offer. Viewing in royal oak Auckland https://www.trademe.co.nz/1617105211
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1 pointLooks about the same size as the one i patched. First drain oil, i used an air compressor to blow all the oil out of the sump. Then i hit the area with a dremel to score the surface and give the epoxy something to adhere to, i grooved the crack line very slightly so it would fill and hold. Mix and apply epoxy; then to be extra sure it would hold i repeated the dremel step around and over the dry epoxy and put another layer of epoxy over it. Mine has held out for over 6 years now, no oil drips.
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1 pointStill looking great today, colour match is great. Amazing how new the whole cabin is feeling. Drove up the drive tonight though and a random airbag light has come on scanner out time
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1 pointcan't weld it on the car but if you pull it off and clean it up i can weld up the crack for you. (good time for wings and baffles for when you take it racing!)
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1 pointYes, I suspected as much, thanks Glenn. First step is to drain it, clean it all up and have a proper look. In parallel pricing up the replacement bits. Lucky I've got time on my hands at the moment! But I'm losing cold beer fast, no mains power to the house and Vector says the feed to the property is fine... main line is buried under the 25m concrete driveway... yay.
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1 pointdamn.. no popcorn/show for you nathan looks like the admins have removed all the fun that was about to happen
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1 pointHey Team hope you all had a great weekend. So managed to put the style 135 on the touring, at 1st i was like ah maybe i chose the wrong colour. But like the ones on the sedan which are plastic dip the colour is growing on me.
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1 pointI dont think the sellers actually think its worth 15k, a realistic offer on this is $5k to start and settle around $6-7k. Sold my NZ new black msport 2002 sedan with 17x kms for 6k last year and it was as tidy if not tidier than this
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1 point+1, though it must be recognised that a 130i is not a family car in any measure; particularly alongside a Stagea (which is also commonly known as Starship due to it's galactic capacity). Other than a round-town shopping cart with two sub five-year old children in tow, the 130i will not work. I think a 1er anything is likely to be too much of a shock, unless the car mix changes completely and 'Dad's car' is for work commuting only, and has no family duties to attend to. An e60 will be a quantum leap after the Nissan in terms of ride and handling**, still features 50:50 weight distribution (uncertain about the Diesel), and will do duty as a family car, and will be damned comfortable for your daily commute. I commuted mine 80-90kms round trip per day and returned around 11.5l/100km, extra urban, and found it a really nice place to be. Previously I'd done a very similar trip in my e46 325i, and although still enjoyed the journey, was not as relaxed as in the e60. YMMV. The key thing will be to figure out which chassis is most appropriate - e9x or e6x, and go from there to find your powertrain combo. You can find NZ-new 330 e90 with Motorsport, though it'll take a while to find a good solid un-molested example. No reason a 335i shouldn't be workable, particularly if you develop a good relationship with an independent workshop (or BMW dealership) and have a solid MBI to back up your maintenance bills and help mitigate the risk, E60 your main areas to consider - again, covered by MBI providing you're taking care of solid maintenance - are the V8 Valve Stem Seals, and possibly the Transmission if it's not serviced. The trans is the same as that used in the e9x, just has a bigger torque rating. They both require maintenance, ignore the 'sealed for life' philosophy. You can find a sheet online called "so you've bought an e60" (or similar) that is regularly updated and well worthwhile. They're (BMW's) all going to reward you with a good driving experience, leak a little oil, and take your wallet for the occasional night out only without the hangover, but a bunch of parts and service receipts as evidence. You can't run them like Camry's. ** FWIW I ran an A32 Maxima 3.0 for five years with young family; it was excellent, though not at all in the same league as a 5er (e34, e39, or e60). Also have experience with the Stagea - great value. HTH
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1 pointBuy an NZ New e91 330i from Wellington... but seriously - I agree with most of what Kyu says, but most importantly; drive a few different cars/chassis/engines and that'll (hopefully) give you an idea as to what suits your needs, and your taste. Then get the best (or best enough) of that within your budget and what's available ?
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1 pointGave the 130 (and 330) a polish and wax. Got some of that Bouncers Check the Fleck wax, like $180 a container (on sale for $30)... Im normally at the meguairs/mothers end of the wax spectrum, but for $30.. Ill give it a go. Clay bar'd, cut and polished using DA and a range of grades (finished with meguairs ultimate polish), spent the majority of the day, so the surface prep was pretty decent! It smells really nice, it goes on really nice, but OMG the buffing to get rid of holograms. Took forever and the end result is at the level of meguiars ultimate/carnauba Its shiney, but, seriously, too much work. No way could I justify the full price. "check the fleck" is apparently for metallicpaints, 130 is black saphire metallic... honestly, the fleck look better checked after the polish and before the wax
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1 pointSump replacement on the E36 is only easy on a hoist with the right gear. Engine support and drop the cross member. Claim on your insurance and get a professional to do it.
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1 pointI used to buy my wipers on my trip to Taiwan and they are a lot cheaper. I have bought Hella and Michelin wipers and they worked well. Until I was told by my mechanic friend that my wipers are upside down, of course as Taiwan is a LHD country but later on found out you can remove the rubber blade then rotate it 180 degrees and solved the issue. Will bring some more wipers back on my next trip.
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