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Chaps I bought this car. It’s the real deal. As some one said a very private owner who has never been on trade me before. quiet unassuming and honest I respect that Rather 80s in appearance I agree. I wish I still was. I think with classics that’s part of the point Not too many NZ new( about 20), 2 owner, lowish mileage where the same person has essentially serviced it from new to choose from The buffalo leather just needs a little colouring. It’s otherwise perfect. Everything works as advertised. No dings no rust and only factory/Dinan hot rodding so what’s not to like? the body stuff and wheels are easily changed. And might be one day. The engine is part of its history. Fitted by one of BMW NZ agents. It also makes it rather faster than stock Im happy :)

Recruiters* W the actual F. *no, not all of them - but evidently the majority.

Hmm yeah, whom's cert standards haha. This could be easy. Or really damn expensive. Does the price reflect the quality? Or does he just need a quick sale.

Waved 'bye-bye' to the 318Ci...

Feel free to drop by for some open header goodness E36 being showered with gifts; this arrived today, not as bad as expected being a FG rep.

Looking to buy parts for an E46 330ci manual conversion. Preferably 6 speed, not too fussed though.

I have genuine f20 camera and other bits etc

Thanks for the welcome The car is in for a bit of love - it has been sitting unused for a long time so there's fluids to change, hoses and bushes etc to check, probably new tires - and a tune needed. The standard boot spoiler will probably replace whats on it. I've been looking for a while to add to my small collection and frankly didn't expect to stumble across a M6 so am pretty excited by it (and Mark agreed to a bit of a discount from what he was asking). Will get some pictures up ASAP and make contact SS. Thanks for the offer. Do I confess now that I used to have an X5M ??? Roast on

5 TradeMe auctions. Over 1200 views and 250 watchers between them. Not one single bid on any of them.

Its alright, @M3AN hasnt been along yet ?

...in my case I need to replace the coolant thermostat and housing. Getting this done tomorrow (Frid 31 Aug) at Winger BMW. ?

no point not using the right tools. because when you use the wrong tools, screw it up, try to solve the problem, and end up buying the correct tool to put it back together again any way, why wouldnt you.

@BM WORLD ave a look

Also can't remember if I shared this before or not, present from Kayne Barrie when he rebuilt this motor last year. Those with a keen engineering eye may spot something wrong here ? Untitled by Christian Taylor, on Flickr

can be frustrating, aye. both as candidate, and hiring manager. find a good one, and the pain is minimised. Which field, Cory?

Just out of curiosity, did you get a PPI before you bought the car?

Well it was one of the 3 most likely faults and unfortunately a known one. I agree dealers dont scan cars for faults especially if they are running right, just the way it is. If he pays for anew set of injectors and they are installed by a competent technician then a big win to Steve, if you have to go halves or something still a win as these are failure prone items and would have needed to be replaced at some time anyway.

Dave is 100% right. This has nothing to do with mechanical insurance (which is what the dealers try to sell you in order to cover their ass not yours). "Fully serviced and ready to go" claimed by most dealerships usually means top up with any oil they have and cover it in greasy products all over the interior to make it sticky. and dont forget tyre shine!! They obviously didnt do any kind of code reading checks or diagnostics. lol.. what a joke

I would be very careful what you do next. I suggest only a BMW dealer or specialist to carry out this repair. The injectors & locking elements are $600 ea and it's recommended that you replace all 6. The 135 also shows the fuel filter as being built into the high pressure fuel pump. Parts ordering by chassis number will reflect that is or isn't.. I would wait until you hear back from the dealer first and go from there. Is the Masterton repairer a BMW specialist ? You can pm or phone me if you like

Doh... of course it does... thanks guys.

should have brough the red one mate now its on TM with a new price

Keep it stock and get a very good mechanical insurance policy, keep a stash in the bank for maintenance and you’d get a good run out of it imo. But it’s a modern M car and I suspect the temptation to upgrade will be too great. And so a cycle of depreciation and buyers remorse continues on in the back of the owners mind....

F*** yeah. Bloody vacuum lines weren’t attached earlier CF8AB790-0427-4A9E-81F1-AFD06206C4FD.MOV

This was Facebook, which is probably worse!

The 318Ci is listed at $3250. Just received this: I'm struggling to continue being a nice guy...

I can understand where Autosure is going with this. If the diagnostic check was done properly with the right type of professional diagnostic tool, it should, will show the number of times the fault has occurred and the mileage the fault occurred. The records could also be stored in other control units if the fault effects them as well. If the faults have been cleared that information is now lost. No specialist would clear these without keeping a copy in PDF form to be able to go back on. We saved all of these to cover ourselves and to provide proof of repairs carried out. It's a process.... Diagnostic check saved, Clear fault codes saved, Road test till fault codes appear again save, report to owner. Carry out repairs, clear fault codes, road test, recheck and save.

Yes, even indoors I don’t like to use them. Apart from scratching the paint they also trap moisture. A carport or some sort of tent would be ok. Perhaps you could check out some storage facilities. They have garage size units. Just make sure it is properly ventilated.

The vehicle is not of "acceptable quality", insist on a refund. They'll probably tell you it's "faulty" and they have the right to try and repair it, that's BS - because it failed immediately after purchase you don't get past the "acceptable quality" test to the "faulty" test. A "fault" might be something that popped up 3 months after purchase, not in week one. Anyway, sorry to hear this, do try and negotiate with them, it's always the easiest way but make it clear to them you know your rights. https://www.consumerprotection.govt.nz/help-product-service/cars/finding-the-right-car/buying-car-from-dealer/ https://www.consumerprotection.govt.nz/help-product-service/cars/solving-issues-car-dealer/ https://www.consumer.org.nz/articles/car-buyers-rights#article-when-things-go-wrong http://www.cab.org.nz/vat/tt/bs/pages/buyingfromadealer.aspx Good luck and keep us posted.

@Olaf, I had a question about CGA if that's alright. I'll update you all first As a recap, I had contacted the dealer earlier in the week about the hard-starting problem. The vehicle had not coded. The dealer had organised an appointment with a mechanic to diagnose. I had that appointment today. I paid the mechanic to also do a thorough inspection of the vehicle separately. The inspection was clear. He checked the wastegates for noise and the boost readings on some back roads. Along with other visual inspections, All was clear. Now to the dealer side of things. With regard to hard starting, the car had logged codes but, in the mechanic's words, "not enough for the car to know which cylinder the problem is in, so it just silently logged a fault without a light". You can find a PDF containing the printout that he gave me attached. He resolved to tell the dealer that the car needed new injectors as the fault codes indicated. On the way home, The car threw a massive fit. I went to overtake a car and it cut power. Since that moment, If you apply more than 1/4 throttle in any situation, it does one of the two following things; It cuts at least 2 cylinders out and throws a CEL, OR it puts the big "half engine power" symbol up, and runs smoothly but with reduced power. I finally got an OBD scanner to work and found the following codes: It was at that point that I got cold feet about the car. I rang the dealer and said that I want to return it. Making a long story short, they want to repair the car. I told them that even if they repair it, I want my money back as it is faulty and I don't trust it any more. I explained that I have only done about 1000km (trip home from auckland and two or 3 60km trips), and that if I am going to return it, it will be now. They then switched from "we will fix it" to, "we won't give you a refund". I have told them nicely that I have the right to a refund and that I don't want the car any more. The dealer said that his manager would be in touch tomorrow. I'm currently trawling through the CGA looking to see if they have the right to refuse a refund. I want to be nice, not nasty, and I don't want to be difficult. I just know what I want and am going to push that way as much as I can. Do you have any suggestions on how to navigate this? IMG.pdf

If it suits I am looking to rent out two rooms at the moment - https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1732712766 and because no one cares normally, here are two bonus content pictures. My coms cabinet and shed.

How many times should I need to tell people ?? 13.7v is the maintained voltage specified by all manufacturers when coding or flashing

people don't seem to comprehend what "fully loaded" means, watched a you tube review of an i3, first paragraph "this car is fully loaded" one paragraph later "this is the base model with no range extender" can they not hear what they are saying? does it mean different things in different countries? Have i got it wrong? ?