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If you live in London and have too many cars, you'd want to call this crowd. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2X-FwJO1xZM Ok, so 50 psi, racing fuel, put a drop of engine oil down each spark plug hole and rock the car...

I admit it I am a big E36 Coupe fanboy. I know the E30 is the golden child but for me E36 Coupes are my favourite shape. So for a very lowly amount of cash I picked up this Hellrot 323i with a broken starter motor. Like most E36's she need a bit of tidying but I am getting good at fixing them now.

Hey Team So update for the v8 wagon. Been a few busy weekends moving to a bigger shed so had to delay pulling cars apart. But Finally in and this weekend getting stuck into the 5 speed swap. Also nice to have all the toys under one roof. So far since last post have managed to put xyz adjustables in. Over the weekend started pulling the auto box and rear end out of the car. Also found that old owner Eddy had welding some subframe plates in which is a bonus. Just one small torx bolt stopping me from dropping the box as i need to go and buy a torx ring spanner in order to get the bolt out. and change the brake lines to m3 hubs then everything is good to go back in. M3 rear end and zf 390z 5speed box with other little bits. . And a small update for the v12 m3 wheels that came with car and ones ill be swapping to.

Sunday update. This morning I: Touched up a couple of marks in the topcoat on the ARBs Scuffed the primer with Scotch Brite, then top-coated the Rotor Shields Primed the Strut Housings This evening I: Top coated the Strut Housings. I didn't bother rubbing them down, scuffing them up... they're not meant to be pretty, they're meant to be protected. Hopefully the paint has enough time to cure before installation Weds/Thurs/Fri! Conclusion: The hot-water bath for the aerosols to pre-warm the paint, really does make a difference. The paint is easy to mix with the ball in the can, and the paint flows better, easier to get a good finish. Tomorrow night I'll clean the brake caliper pistons, clean the slider pin housings, and then assemble with new seals.

WHAT? WHY? Just leave the furniture.

Finally finished fitting all new suspension arms to the front of the M5, took it on the motorway for a test run, had a mild panic attack, went home, tightened the wheel bolts properly, went for another test run, all good!

Car is now sold, onto the next project...

Hey so i thought I'd share my latest retrofit project. Couple of my mates have f8X m cars after seeing the seats i wondered if they fit the e92. I couldn't find any info or even pictures on google. After acquiring some from a damaged f80 i got to work trying to fit them. At first i was pleased to find they bolted directly in. I swapped the connectors from f80-e92. With only 5 wires(power,canbus,lighting). It was easy to swap. The car did not like the f80 seat module at all and quickly rejected it. Because of the can protocol between the chassis. And with the canbus connection removed the wake up signal was no longer being conveyed and after 10sec the seat shut down. Luckily the passenger seat was simply a high current switch. All worked as it should except the heated seats. Using the e92 seat module i use it to simply work the heated seats instead of all other seat functions it used too. After playing around it was looking as though it would not be possible aside from a can emulator that would relay the wake up signal. However this isn't easy. I was running out of ideas. I brought a very cheap pair of seats from a x1 at first for parts but then noticed it used the same style of connectors as the f80 but the car was only a 2010. Part of a total fluke i tested the module out and to my surprise it worked. It was enough to makes the seat stay awake however no heated seats because the x1 seats weren't heated. After that i was stoked and immediately sourced the heated version of the same module which worked perfectly. Only last remaining problem is because they were from a 4 door the seats do not release forward which is a problem in a 2 door so ill order the parts and try convert them?

Only just come across this site tonight and glad to finally find a group of kiwi BMW owners. Had my 335i for about 2 weeks now. My first BMW. Some of you may have already seen my post on r/e90 if you are reddit users. Managed to get her with a little over 53,000 km. M Sport with iDrive, sunroof, comfort access, black leather interior with aluminium trim (I think? The light silver trim, not too different from my exterior colour). I want to eventually do the NBT EVO retrofit as the CCC iDrive the car came with is pretty basic and a bit cumbersome to use. Plus the UI looks very dated now. Also want to retrofit some LCI LED tail lights, LED angel eyes/headlights, the homelink/compass/auto-dimming mirror and maaaybe the DCT electronic shifter mod from motive mods, although I'm on the fence about that one as I've heard you have to cut the shifter stalk to fit it and I'm not sure I really want to do that. Was also originally considering fitting the LCI Up/Down paddle shifters to replace the old push/pull silver ones. But I just converted my silver push/pull paddles to left side downshift pull, right side upshift pull + downshift push the other day, and they work just how I want them to now! Plus the look of them has grown on me and I think they may actually suit the car better than the newer black ones. My K+DCAN cable should get here within the next week or so. Planning to do the xHP transmission flash. That's about it for now though. Performance mods will come in time. But for now I'm just enjoying her as she is (LOL, give it a few months and I'll probably be eating my words with downpipes, fmic and JB4 on order xD ) Look forward to seeing some of you guys around and perhaps meeting up for some cruising. Stay safe out there!

Hampton Downs June 2019.mp4

please replace the indicators asap

Welcome back. E36 life is best life. Hellrot really does suit the shape, lovely.

good spotting , ok buy the ones from the 2010 120i then

imported , failed compliance check , needs engineers report on past repairs (left side sill repairs), such a shame

You don't mention what year and if M-sport or otherwise, but I reckon at those sort of KMs, you wouldn't want to be paying more than 5k. Plenty of things other than just the engine wear with distance.

12 months since the first clean up and ceramic coating, used the rest of the sonax profiline kit up.. the 2nd step gloss coat has run out of propellant so had to cut the can open and do it the old fashioned way. 12 hours later, its pretty shiney. Last application was still beading 6 months later, didnt do the wheels the first time around but did on this go, will be interesting to see how long it holds up.

My thoughts too

Be good to meet up some time when you are installed in the sunny HB

how cheap is it? these cars are pretty cheap now already

Made my e36 too low. Now to raise it up so I can get out the driveway.

Drivers training Hampton Downs 9th June Thanks again Dave the rack worked well at HD. But it's back to the drawing board with my twin fuel pump system. In the final session I had fuel stravation coming out of turn 1 and turn 3. Filled up again at Pokeno 43ltrs. So roughly 20ltrs left when stravation started. Didn't set a personal best this time 1.17.7 (I may have peaked ?)

As a follow up to this - managed to obtain a towbar and electronics module off an NZ new F30 being wrecked (thanks SD European) - fits perfectly, has the chain mounting and is essentially invisible with the swan neck removed. Approx cost $1400 including installation but I believe a better solution than the non detachable non OEM versions being sold locally

All sorted. Thanks Graham.

Apparently that wasn't an option! <Mutter mutter mutter mutter...>

Installed 2 thirds of my new Bavsound speaker set up in the E39 Rear deck drivers and rear door tweeters done. Will tackle the front door drivers and tweeters next day i don't have a 3.5 year old nipping at my heels

M760Li was the fastest accelerating production BMW of all time.

So today I ran some errands. Bought rubber grease from BNT, more abrasives from Bunnings. and some other stuff. As it wasn't raining, I took Grey Thunder. After chilling a little this afternoon, I got stuck into it in the workshop. I was initially doing the tubes with the flap disc, and the cast iron with wire brush on the drill. It was slow going. After about 30 mins, I figured I needed something faster. It was time to try: The Cup Brush on my angle grinder. I just have a baby grinder, Black and Decker. A present from a friend years ago for helping him out with computer probs. When I'm buying my own kit I usually buy Bosch Blue, De Walt etc. I find the 'pro' tools have more power, more torque, do the job faster. I've been pretty impressed with this little grinder. I think going to the cup brush reduced time to complete by 2/3! So I've bare-metaled both front strut housings, and brushed on rust converter. As you can see above, the brush cup is pretty much shagged. And above: the beauty of CRC brush-on Rust Converter. Yeah I've left the cups on as I don't have a 3-jaw puller. Hints. Eg, if you're going to do this: - the cup brush produces little metal arrows that'll go through 3 layers of clothing and nick your skin. Overalls are a good idea, or better still, a leather metalworkers apron if you have one. - Make sure you use full PPE. This is not a rehearsal! I used 3M respirator with 2297 particulate filters; De Walt safety goggles, Peltor H7F Class 5 earmuffs (Ear Defenders, if you're from Blighty); and Welding Gauntlets. In case I slipped with the grinder, to protect my hands and wrists. We might not be doing this for a living, but the damage occurs just as quickly, and a trip to After Hours med centre or A&E to get stitched up or your eyes operated on is much more costly than some saftety gear! - Buy 2 cup brushes, you might go through one and not be finished. They're not expensive. 20 or 22mm spanner to tighten the 'Brumby' (from Bunnings) quick release into your grinder. Oh, and here's some pics of the rotor shields that I primed this morning before errands. Tomorrow I'll be painting.

It also allows you to go balls out around say on a track or wet coner right up to that mechanical grip limit. You can also initiate a slide and it will do a good job of holding it and not letting it oversteer too much. The MK60 is a productionisaed OEM version of the Bosch motorsport unit. certain version can be turned into a full blown motorsport ABS/Traction system. The Georg Plaza 1 series Judd car had this system with bespoke PC software to control the maps and telemetry from the unit. Its also a true stand-alone unit which can be used in other vehicles requiring signal only from source sensors and proxied signals from the DME.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2181972024.htm $5k now..

That's a nice looking 645ci cab! Fabulous.