Leaderboard

Figured I'd pitch in here, since I've spent a lot of time looking over LVVTA's standards for wheels, brakes and spacers recently. Most of those points are all highlighted here: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf Granted, that's dated 2016, but I don't see any of these points being laxed, and if changed, would expect them to be tightened. 1. It can, for pressed steel wheels. However, for cast aluminium wheels: see 2.5(2) a: the spacer is designed to fit only one stud configuration. This is clarified in the notes: ‘Configuration’ means, within the context of 2.5(2)(a), that whilst a spacer can be of a multi-fitting design in that it fits varying pitch circle diameters, it must be of a type that will fit either a four-stud wheel or a five-stud wheel, but not both. Spacers that will fit both four-stud and five-stud wheels must not be used in any situations. 2. There is a method is pretty clearly spelt out in 2.5(1) f: be set-screwed or attached by another secure method to either the wheel or hub face; 3 and 4, I think that's pretty spot on in 2.5(1) e: be fitted as to ensure the wheel locates snugly over the hub spigot so that the hub carries the weight of the wheel assembly instead of the wheel studs, or where there is a mis-match between the hub spigot and the wheel centre, a close tolerance fit center bore locator must be provided 5. I'll just nitpick on this one, it's 6.5 turns: 2.4(4) b, i: in the case of a 12 mm metric stud or bolt with a 1.5 mm coarse thread pitch, 6.5 turns OR in 2.4(4) c "in the case of an unmodified hub assembly, not less than that originally provided for the fitment by the original vehicle manufacturer." , but given that you've spaced it out, I'd say b would be applicable. This is all from the LVVTA standard, though as myself and may others have found, the interpretation is entirely up to the individual certifier, so what one certifier may say is acceptable, another may not. In particular your local guys notes about using a heat resistant adhesive, some might pass that, and others might not. And then whether you get pulled up on it for a WoF is another story. As your cert guy says, since you already have a cert, for spacers, it wouldn't be worth going in for a re-cert providing you meet all the criteria above. But in terms of other modifications to your car that vary from it's initial certification: What does your cert say in regards to your wheel size? Unless it's stamped OEM, most will specify a diameter and width (but oddly never offset, or tyre size) With regards to brake calliper changes, that also would require a cert as per: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf See section 8-1, as it doesn't list a calliper change there. How that would be proven given that it bolts on would be another topic, but figured I'd bring it up. But you can fit those larger rotors, as I'm assuming they would be "the same size as the OE rotors; and catalogued aftermarket items for that make and model of vehicle (and can include cross-drilled and/or slotted types)"

Come on man, where's the build thread on that?! Looks very interesting, and probably significantly less pricey than a Giant Green Egg or Kamado Joe. @Driftit I like the idea of the Oklahoma Joe you mentioned, but lack the space. I've been running an old BBQ Factory 4 burner Capt-n-cook that I refurbed (including flame tamers, enameled grilles, cleanup, reg, and sand-back, repair, re-oil the frame) for 5 or 6 years now, including smoking with a pair of smoker boxes that I cycle through (hint: soak your chips in cleanskin Cab/shiraz/merlot - whatever's cheap!). I'm about to assemble family xmas present Weber Family Q3200 as key alternative while kitchen replacement is in-play Feb-Apr. When one's better half suggests 'we should get a Weber Q to cook on while the Kitchen is in pieces', there's no need to question.

A few new findings regarding the brakes. Multiple people in the UK have since confirmed their Style 208's fit the m-light brakes... yet my calipers and wheels (and hubs and rotors) seem true. There's a small possibility the rotor hats are too thin but, being Zimmerman, that seems unlikely. I visited a LVV certifier today, and aside from being quite derisory about NZ Transports entire LVV programme, he was very helpful. He pointed out that certification, quoting NZT, was required because "you need to get an LVV certification if you heavily modify your vehicle" (emphasis added). He couldn't speculate on why slim spacers are considered a "heavy" modification. He also mentioned that NZT costs have gone up and a new cert could be between $1000 and $1500, 75% of which is administration and fees, not 'on vehicle' time. This is just more BS NZ hidden taxes. He suggested that at a fixed cost of $200 per certifiable change, more people would come through the door exposing dangerous mods rather than just skipping the cert altogether. Anyway, he answered these questions which are either ambiguous, misleading or simply missing from the certification standard, leaving it up to the certifier and customer (if you're lucky) to interpret it and sort it out. 1. a spacer can have more holes in it than required for the application (e.g. a spacer that suits both a 4 and 5 stud car, so 9 holes, is fine). This is not clear in some parts of the requirement and ambiguous in others. 2. A spacer must affix to either the wheel or hub (rotor) but, since there's no method specified and most can't be affixed, then simple heat resistant adhesive is good enough to stick it to the rotor hat (it's not load bearing and, being hub centric, can't move about). It's just to stop the spacer falling off when the wheel is removed and some numpty forgetting to put it back on. 3. All spacers must end up being wheel-centric (regardless of vehicle type) and this is real tricky in some applications. For a BMW we must use hub-centric spacers that have a corresponding flange on the outside unless... 4. The spacer is thin enough to allow the hub flange to extend beyond the spacer and engage with the wheel. 5. With <5mm spacers you probably don't need new wheel bolts but check they turn fully 6 times before torqueing them up. The good news is with 3mm spacers I will both clear the brakes and have heaps (~7mm) of the original hub flange engaging with the actual wheel to ensure wheel centricity. His final bit of advice? If you already have a cert (I do) then don't bother with a new cert if you're using 3mm spacers, it's a waste of time and money because most WoF shops won't ask to see the cert or even know what to look for on a cert. Since my last warrant never even required sighting of the cert I can understand this advice, regardless of how prudent (read: legal) it actually is. But he did emphasis that you must use high quality wheel bolts or studs and nuts and never, ever aluminium. Anyway... I'm ordering some high quality 3mm slip on spacers this evening and will attack the front brakes again when I get the time. The LVV guy said to take it in to him for a quick look-see after I've done the work to get his opinion on whether it's safe and roadworthy. I'm not really sold on a particular long-term path yet but will change the brakes out and use a slim spacer in the short term. If worst comes to worst I have confirmed my BBS RC's clear the calipers without spacers.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-2926873918.htm

I'll have a black manual motorsport up for sale around that money shortly

Just bringing this post back to the front page for good. Pinned.

Compared to previous progress things are happening fast now ... final bit of seam welding done in the rear seat, only showing the welds painted with epoxy primer as they don't look great naked Made a custom socket for the subframe mounting studs so I could avoid trying to locate a cheap 30mm crows foot. Worked a treat !! Fuel filler neck, fuel tank and subframe now installed ... will clean the factory wax off the tank which I missed, don't worry

I don't disagree with any of that Nick, indeed that's all the stuff I found amongst others. I think the highlighted bit above is the key... for example my interpretations was similar to your but differ to the LVV engineer guy's, then add in a page like this (including all the comments) and the confusion is just amplified, it's a minefield! I will double-check my bolts today on the back of your post... stock is 25mm (thread) and I can get 27mm bolts if necessary, 30mm will probably be too long (potentially bottoming out) but I'm not sure. That's one thing I will not skimp on. Thanks for the post, helps as a good cross reference and sanity check. 👍 Edit: I've asked for non-multi-fit spacers, so 5 holes only, that was one of the things that concerned me most.

I'm holding off until I move into the new place later this year. A friend has one of the Oklahoma Joe's and it is so easy and the result is amazing. @*Glenn* was smoking some nice stuff a few years back.

Nice one, be careful of that guys advice. He asks a question on facebook, gets an answer, and then makes a video out of it claiming to be an A grade mechanic the next day. His mate is the "BMW doctor" on youtube, who is a raging halfwit...

No actually, that was something I learnt. It's called wheel centric if you're using a spacer... sort-of makes sense because there's no hub-to-wheel interface. Most places refer to them as hub centric only but, since you can have a hub centric spacer that's not wheel centric (i.e. it has a flat outside face) then referring to them simply as hub centric doesn't give you enough information to correctly identify them. In "proper" terms the required spacer is both hub and wheel centric (if the wheel can't engage the hub sufficiently). The LVV engineer was quite particular about this! 😇 I used to also think that hub and wheel centric were the same thing, now I know they're not. Edit: yes the ones in your link are hub & wheel centric.

No I love that. Drum smokers are amazing for stable temps. So efficient on fuel too.

~10mm... unless it has it's own flange to centre the wheel on which a lot do. Basically, if you can't engage the actual hub flange, the spacer itself needs to have a comparable (same diameter) flange, flat faced spacers are a big no-no (apparently) and lug/bolt centric solutions are also unacceptable. Essentially, if the only thing stopping the spacer (or wheel) moving around is clamping force then it can't be certed.

I have a 200litre drum smoker I built - does an amazing job, incredibly stable temps and just as comfortable with chicken as brisket / short rib etc. But looks like a POS 🤣 We are moving in the next few months though and might retire it and get a Kamado style one.

how much will it cost to pay a shop in auckland to do this for a sedan? which shops do it?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32256380276.html?spm=2114.12057483.0.0.667c41a4ih5Gua found them for ya

Bought new tyres for the front of Miss Ms car. Seem to be in constant cycle of service and/or repair at present! Oh well. Better go look at another this arvo. That way we'll keep one working...

I'm pretty impressed with Weber's (BBQ's) customer service. I need new burner tubes for my 6yo "Family Q" (3200) and they're not supplied at retail. Smart Marine gave me the email address to reach, I sent them an email over the weekend, they replied on Tuesday. I wasn't able to reply to them with the requested photos until after 5pm on Tuesday but received an email reply less that 15 minutes later that my replacement parts will be with me in 3-5 days, no charge. Happy with that. I don't mind paying a margin for quality products with quality service standing behind it. Well done Weber.

Just completed the following: Rocker cover gasket kit incl new bolts Drive belt, tensioner, idler Oil filter and Oil cooler gaskets 5L antifreeze Decided to leave the Sump gasket, Thermostat and Water pump for now as no apparent issues. Also forgot about the DISA check until too late! From a "noobie" experience, I found it all quite daunting, the on-line videos were helpful and some unhelpful Videos dont tell you how to undo all the clips (some were obvious, others mind-numbing) and how much wiring to remove so there was enough access to lift the rocker cover off. In the end I found George Austers guide the most helpful (he has other guides, also used his CDV delete one with success!)

Continental Cars are at least focusing on BMW... MGs are goneburger to Gazley... and yes fingers crossed for positive change and more general brand enthusiasm/support. Lots of work to rebuild their profile, image and reputation and we can only hope that the new owners inspire the staff to warm up and get enthusiastic. Leaders/owners can have a huge impact. Locate a Dealer | MG Motor New Zealand

The issues are twofold. SH2, SH51, SH50 (etc including SH1) are maintained and managed by NZTA. NZTA are useless - they fail at planning, they fail at implementation, they fail at contract management. They seem to rely on others for quality control. These are the guys who bought a 4-lane wide stretch of land through Hawke's Bay, past Napier, then had a single carriageway road built. In the centre of that strip of land, so any plans to expand will disrupt traffic in both directions. Why not build to one side? There's no answer to that, suggesting it was purely and simply a cock-up. They then decided that the road they'd had built was unsafe, so they disrupted traffic for months which wire ropes were installed down the centre. And in some places, down the sides. Regional roads are managed by District Councils, and there's no single source of funding, no overall control, no single contract management operation. It's done district by district (not even region by region). Downer seem to own many subsidiaries who too often deliver a sub-standard service on regional roads. This isn't a criticism of those working on the roads although I've seen some individuals who are pretty useless too - when you see the same person sitting, standing, leaning, smoking, playing with a phone and generally doing anything except working, day after day, regardless of the time you pass through, it's hard to see what they are bringing to the job. It's the fundamentals of the operation - the techniques, design and implementation - which are at fault. Once that's been decided, Mr Roadworker is left with little option but to follow instructions. And NZTA must bear the brunt of the blame for that. Big government group, apparently not overseen (that job must currently fall to Michael Wood?) and with no apparent expectation of improving delivery.

No good asking us Kelvin, ask Trade Me. Oh wait, its almost impossible to speak to a person there, no one answers the phone and their much lauded "chat function" is about as useful as tits on a bull.😡

Next week sees a general return to work, assuming doc says that's OK when I see her. Sadly the thought of that is not helping at all, and it'll be difficult to resolve the feelings engendered during the few days ahead. Need to work. Need income! But my health and wellbeing is uppermost in my mind.

Been a while but still been chipping away at trying to get it to final sand down. Started sanding down the guide coat that was on it 2 weeks ago and found these hidden Christmas presents no one in the house wants to own up to cause it was flat when I left it !! Lucky only a few hours to get that flat, bizzare no one knows how it happened, looks like a chair leg connected or something. A bit of force required to make those dents. Anyway went over the kinks and lines with fresh eyes over the holidays and realised those lines were definitely far from being sharp. Technique has come a long way, amazing to learn that with the wrong technique you'll get no where on a complex contour which this e46 has taken me on crash course for. Learning to spend more time using lighting and shadows to guide the final Sanding Ontop of Long primer runs with guide coats Got a good break of decent weather this week so provided I can sign off on those quarter panels I'll be doing full car sand down and diaaseably for paint this week.

Cheers, still a long road ahead to get mobile !! Maybe some Nissan emblem bars sticking out of the side of the BMW one Big milestone today, getting the first item reinstalled on the car !!! (even if it was just fuel and brake lines hah)

I didn't use the dealer but it wasn't for want of trying. Was going to use Winger in Wellington but it wasn't worth 4 figures to me to update it 🙄 Coombes Johnston in Hamilton and Hawkes' Bay BMW quoted a much more reasonable price - PM me if you want details for self-updating. I think Carplay requires new hardware for pre-mid 2016 build cars Also not technically something done to my car, but joined NZ BMW Car Club! 😎

Got it from storage and bought it home. Now to clean it up, guards rolled and a wheel alignment

Re-complied. WoF'd. New plates. Rego'd. Road legal. Yesss, today was a good day! 😊

Finally made the conversion in the e91 to full black leather. Big thanks to @Steveo1 for the fronts + door cards And big thanks to @BM WORLD for sorting the other half of the puzzle with rear and side bolsters. Getting those seats back in require some pretty advanced tongue twisting and trigonometry, good thing I read up on some forum topics giving some pointers to the little seat being loosely secured first and then the bigger seat jiggles/ jolts onto it. Had to convert the rear sedan door cards to the touring ones, luckily there was a some what cutout for me to follow carefully with the help of a jig saw and drill, felt extremely un easy cutting into a nice condition door card. Managed to transfer the bracket across relatively easy with some OEM BMW glue to re secure in place.

My E28 has original Black Plates, I received them today after saving it from dereg.

I had a fist fight with the 130 whilst retrofitting cruise control today. I won, barely. https://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/62890-my-fun-130i-e87-lci-motorsport-auto/page/13/?tab=comments#comment-683270

Id call the other flavour "wrong" but, semantics I had a wheel shop lose one of the hubcentric rings on my wheels once and then just bolt the wheel straight up thinking no one will notice the fact that wheel doesnt turn in a circle anymore....

Finally killed it properly, and now I can't find them on aliexpress 😕 There used to hundreds for sale.