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Of course, a Baur with a roof that doesn't leak, a stiffer body meaning better handling, and far, far easy sourcing of panels must be worth lots more, right? A 13-button OBC (missing from the example in the listing) and original seats can only add to value.

Big lols at someone first offering $8500 and being rejected, and then some no hoper coming in with $6000. Would be a good car to own, a much better prospect to me than an E46 or E46 at a similar price. Ks are creeping up to the Kiwi limit of 200k, but its pretty much bullet proof.

Cheap imports here in NZ are offset by having to import parts to keep maintenance costs down. Hate to think how much ive spent on shipping from 15 years of buying overseas.

153K is honestly ridiculous. You could get a 3 year old low km C63 Estate for 80-90K, and then have 60-70K left to get something for the weekends.

Engine/gearbox/diff/shafts/brakes etc are all bigger on 130. Theyre advertised as 1350kg stock, but I suspect that is dry (and with helium in cabin) and stuff like manual seats. My car certainly wont be the lightest 130, but I think BMWs numbers are a bit goofy. 330 touring is 1700 odd at the tip scales.

Style 360 off an E39? I Googled the number 1095339-7

They remind me of base spec F20 wheels you would find on something like a 116i, although they do appear slightly different, but it might just be the angle of the photo. I reckon style 378?

Plastic flares are temporary until I decide to either build or buy some m3 style flares.. Dont really like the tablet style dash anymore, so will revert back to standard E30 style, and try find some interior parts to put back in.. Kind of regret stripping it out so much and cutting it up so much.

They look a bit like the base wheels that were on E87 LCI base models (non-SE), but may be bigger. What size rims?

Long time, no update. A lot has changed on the car how ever. I see tinypic has conveniently disposed of most the photos. Pulled the M50 out as it dropped compression in cyl 6, down to about 90 psi due to corrosion of the bore, must of been sitting with coolant in it after been parked up for a long time. I suspect it might of got a bit hot during a drunken hamilton style burnout then parked up and the cylinder filled up with coolant potentially, that was the last time it was driven for maybe a year so would of been sitting like that for awhile. Replaced it with an M52B28, tidied it up with new gaskets and ARP head studs. 6 point roll cage, tig welded, and rear strut towers reinforced. Left it NA for a bit and drifted it like that... Reinstalled the old turbo setup the from the M50 on to the M52. New intake manifold. Made a new wiring loom, quick disconnect firewall connector, DR25 etc etc. New fuel setup, removed the stock fuel tank to make room for side exit exhaust. Fuel cell and surge tank in the boot, had terrible fuel starvation problems when approaching half tank with the standard setup. Still running the DTA S80 ECU. Have been running it on E85. But have also installed a water meth kit for when E85 is unavailable so can run regular pump gas or ethanol, mix it with castor oil for extra smell factor. Extended control arms in the front and SLR lock kit. In the rear have converted to true coil over setup, trailing arm bushings removed and changed to monoball bearings along with camber and toe adjusters. Trailing arms reinforced. Front and rear converted to 5 stud. Exhaust is 3", basically straight through with the longest resonator I could fit. 17x8 and 17x9 BBS wheels. Still a lot to do. Photos in no particular order, including some older ones that have gone missing from tiny pic. Will get some proper updated pics once I get back out to the car.

It is.

Not much more info, sitting in a garage at the bottom of the south island for the last 5 years. Might go down and make a road trip of bringing it back up these ways in a month or two and will assess what to do with it then.

Seller has been trying to sell that for a while now. Seems tidy enough but for an auto rag top, may be a hard sell. Who knows these days.

Interesting read!!, I have an E30,318 with an M42 swap, previous owner, a member on here, did an interesting mod, slotted the inlet cam, made an adaptor on his lathe, in his garage & runs the rotor & distributor cap, off the inlet, ca, doing away with modifying, adapting ECU & wiring looms

Near you (I think), give Stevenson Aggregate in Drury a call tomorrow, they used to do it for a tenner and was very accurate. Otherwise yeah, a tip, I think they'll be +/- 2kg ish (or else what's the point) which is probably good enough. Other thought, an alignment shop like Racealign which can corner weight a vehicle but that will be many $$$ more than a simple weight measurement.

Weigh station at 42 Stonedon Drive East Tamaki

Next thing you know your cars suffering anorexia and fat shaming problems, throwing away your wiper/washer system saving a few kgs and driving around with only 10L of petrol on board.

Hmm I wonder if anyone at the main dealer knows the old BMWs?

Definitely a big gap in the market now that Auto 38 are gone. Sutherland Performance seem to have a reasonable rep although VAG-centric, have noticed a few local BMW's with their plate surrounds on. Sadly I think it means main dealer for me for the time being...

Don't see any point in changing it myself. A M40 is never going to be great on the open road and going lower ratio is sacrifice what little acceleration you already have.

Been looking at 130i prices around the world, NZ has the cheapest 130s by a LONG way, we probably have the largest number per capita too. Average aussie auto 130i is 15kAUD + duties, manuals are closer to 20. UK is circa 7000 pound private for similar vehicle (rustier.. ) (~13,500NZD), German prices for similar car is around 11000 euro (18k NZD). Even the Japanese auction houses are ~$12,000NZD+ imported which means the NZ japanese import dealers are not making much on them. Our market is obviously skewed by cheap japanese imports... the question is when do the imports dry up? Japans domestic stock has to dry up as some point, or maybe the coming (or current) regulations will stop making them as feasible to import for peanuts and we will see a big correction in 130 pricing. Might be time to stock up

I made mine using a scaf-plank and some 200x50 H1.2. They're 1.6m long, 250mm wide and 260mm high. Even at that length they still just rub on the air splitter.

I have a couple of railway sleeepers and I have angled the ends with a chainsaw. Didn't cost anything so not worried about how unsexy they are. I was aware most ramps are too steep so I just cut them on a very shallow angle.

😍 looks dope dude

Here's some I found

Cheers Brett. Sounding like I’m on the right page. I’m waiting on state to change value . But sounding like I’m instep with the market.

I have a pair of massive ramps that were used as truck ramps. Really heavy, but really high and wide too. My advice is get the biggest ramps you can find. No one ever wished they got lower ramps.

CHF11S and coolant all the way from the land of freedom in 6 days via fedex (At level 4)

Update time: Did a bit of a refresh of the Vanos + finally got round to fixing up all the errors made on the initial build. I got a donor Vanos and sent it to Dr Vanos to be rebuilt - they did a nice job. This was installed earlier in the week but the engine felt quite different and didn't seem right afterwards with flat spots where the cams switch and overall it felt sluggish. Looking at the photo's we took of the cam positions before taking the Vanos off and fitting the cam blocks it was clear the inlet cam was quite retarded compared to where it should have been. This was corrected when re-installed. I decided not to drive the car much until the tune was checked. With no MAF and oxy sensors the ECU couldn't do anything to correct what might have been wrong. The Link ECU tune I have is non-adaptive and uses just TPS, MAP, ECT and IAT so is fixed and can't adjust to any external changes. Yesterday a slot became available on the dyno today so I fitted the bigger injectors that should have been fitted originally (pink top). I also fitted a modified throttle body with 22% bigger cross-section. The intake duct was increased from 76mm to 100mm and the airbox modified to a proper 100mm diameter outlet tube and trumpet. I then sent it of for a re-tune. It was well worth it. The bigger inlet tube did not add any extra noise. Below is the dyno chart with the before and after curves. Before 263.5hp/313.5Nm, after 297.8hp/343Nm. So, I'm pretty happy with the result. The Vanos is also nice an quiet again which is another bonus.