aja540i

Brunox, spray on rust converter, in an orange can, give it about 4 coats, then top coat it with something. I got mine from Car colors in Albany.

My M5 has HUD, what do you need?

Also yearly vs 6 monthly WOFs.

Can you not just swap the coupling on the trailer?

The other thing to consider is supply and demand, as the models have been released over the years they have sold in larger numbers, so scarcity is becoming less of a factor than it was with E34 M5, E30 and E36 M3, even E39 M5s aren't exactly abundant in NZ compared to the E60/90 generation M cars.

I think at this stage the value has a lot more to do with the perceived cost of ownership than whether or not it is a "true" M car (which it absolutely is!!) Generally speaking the people who are buying at this price level can't or won't spend the money required to keep them at a standard at which they are worth decent money. Good time to buy one as spares for my wagon....

From what I understand the bearing wear issue is caused by very tight tolerances between the crank and big ends, not by BMW specifying the wrong oil, so changing to a different weight oil and running the motor hotter may reduce the effect of the tight tolerances but it doesn't make them go away, and it could lead to other problems in a very complex engine. If doing this makes you sleep better at night then go for it, but it wouldn't fill me with confidence!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2490907953 Not mine, just saw it earlier this evening.

I officially dislike the entire current BMW line up. If I win lotto this weekend I'm not even going to a BMW dealership.

I bet if you look a bit harder you can find one with an M badge on it.....

Empty coffee cup. I'm an ideas man.

Get it joined and re balanced by a professional shop, you will need to be able to produce a receipt for this work when you go for the cert. I have used ADL in the past, there was a guy there called Steve who did this work when they had a branch on the shore, not sure if he is still with them now they have closed that branch. You will also need driveshaft hoops for the cert.

It has Monroes all round, it won't drive well, but still good buying.

Try Bavarian motors, on the shore and the owner had / has one of these as a daily. Note, fixing the SLS will be expensive, most people end up swapping it for standard struts and springs.

I've got one if you want me to bring it to the next meet.

Ah, ok. When were your runners and tracks in the window mechanism last lubricated? If the motor draws too much current it triggers the safety function and having dried up scummy old grease in the mechanism can be enough to push it over the edge. Take the door card off and put some new grease in the runners where the window carrier slides, and a little bit on the drive gear, then run it up and down a few times, it should help.

There's not much to go wrong with them apart from rust, check the bottoms of the doors, boot floor, around the tail lights, around the door hinges, sills, floor, inner guards, etc, etc

If it thinks the door is open because of a worn switch it drops the glass down a bit so that when you close the door it lifts the glass again and it seals into the rubber properly. Try it with the door open, then push the door switch in all the way with a screwdriver, if the glass lifts back up your switch needs changing.

Check the door switch, my coupe did this, something to do with it not knowing the door was shut and dropping the glass to clear the door rubber when you shut it. The plastic on the door switch wears where it hits the striker, replacement (good 2nd hand) switch sorted it.

Better the devil you know... unfortunately all of these M5s will need this work done at some stage, I was lucky I got 160k out of mine with no crank damage, but some with half that mileage will be toast.

In German, no subtitles, worth a watch.....

You can possibly do it by untaping the loom and moving the modules to a new location, maybe at the side by the tail lights, then re- taping the loom. If you can do it without having to cut/ join any wires it should be fairly easy, but I suspect they will have a common earth that you may have to move as well. You will probably want to check that your wheel on its side isn't taller than the well before you get too carried away, from memory the plastic beam that supports the boot floor is quite deep so you may have to leave that out.

Eventually? My 07 M5 has them, they cocked it up then un cocked it!

It must be nearly impossible for Turners to hire staff that actually know about cars, you know, because they all work at Repco....???

Don't need to watch it, I'm sure it's the one parked in my driveway!! ?