Michael.

I approve.

PCS (Powertrain Control Solutions) TCM-2000 6 months old. $1300 NZD Full featured automatic transmission controller, can do nearly any 4, 5 and 6 speed automatic from the 1980s to early 00s. Requires custom wiring and tuning, their website documents most of these details, and provides base maps for most common gearboxes. Used in my car 5 speed A650e since the start of the year (5 months) but a new engine and gearbox setup means I will no longer be needing it, it will be removed from my car around late June if sold before that. Original import cost for unit and universal loom, plus shipping plus import taxes was $1900 NZD so I feel my asking price is very fair.

yay P&S Auto, they're a pretty good bunch down there.

What did removing the fan actually achieve?

Great buy. Pretty tidy. Would be a good project.

Original M60 below, note the dual chain setup and the idler gear in the center of the block, a logical proven design, but more costly. Single row main chain, no idler gear at the center of the block, instead plastic guides / alloy backed curved guide takes the strain. Cheaper to make and more simple. Also note the valley coolant reservoir without the top plates. There's about 20 bolts that hold them down, often start leaking from the rear.

They're crap. I'm a 3UZ guy now A lot less, they are what I would run If an M6X was what you really wanted. Non Vanos Normal alternator Normal thermostat Dual parallel chain timing setup so are typically more 'tough' compared to the single chain in the M62s Just pointing out the reality

Yeah I can appreciate the originality 100% but you're putting yourself a few steps behind using those M62 motors. I wouldn't touch those N series either. Lets not forget they came from an E65, one of the most unreliable BMWs ever. The M62 was fine as a new motor, but costly to refresh 15 years on. If you were serious about using one you'd need to consider these problem areas: Water cooled alternator - they fail, replace it $1XXX later or try fit a air cooled unit Electronic thermostat, always seems to be a problem unless replaced, that includes most of the plastic cooling parts that crack and leak. Block valley cooling reservoir plate, they leak, bolts rust, an engineering disaster, I've never seen an engine with such a design! Timing chain guides, we all know what that means, special tools and guides are needed, likely new chains too given they get sloppy. Vanos units need resealing... O rings and seals aren't one of BMWs strong points. Headgasket failures seem more common in these than the majority of V8s out there from the 90s Electrical sensors and such related gremlins is another matter again. There's thousands of dollars of parts and time to just get the motor healthy again, all for a 300hp V8? Retrofit costs are high too, the sump customization and oil pump changes are a challenge in themselves. I'm not alone in the negative feedback about these motors, two BMW experts I've spoken to said to stay away from these and not bother, one runs a reputable shop the other was an ex BMW mechanic for 20 years - what does that say? I guess it's a long term project like you say, but I'd reconsider such an engine choice and use something that will give you the results your effort deserves.

Those V12s sound average compared to the V8s which is the biggest disappointment with them. Cylinder count alone doesn't make for a good engine

For the effort there are much better V8 engines out there to use.

Just watch the new Top Gear. Avoid. Avoid like the plague.

What is with those awful pictures... like how do you even do that?? Gah!

Awesome. Very good stuff

What an absolute twat.

Thats sooo nice. Those seats!

Discussed it with Seal House, seems they have the right type so ordered a bunch of the seals I need. Brake fluid Glycol based needs EPDM rubber, with a peroxide cure - FDA approved and more expensive. The cheaper ones are sulfur cured and less stable. Cheers for the recommendation Glenn

Sent them an email.

Oh god, that car again. LEDs in the M3 side grilles....... Please kill me now.

Top work James Life wouldn't be the same without BS being alive

Dubious statement it was I guess they are a love hate car, is probably what I should have said.

Wow, they are ruining Chris Harris. What a misguided use of him in a menial role with some other guy know ones herd of.... he out does all the host, especially that failed actor from friends and that buffoon of a radio host. I hope this new TG crashes and burns in its first season, it's bound to get panned by critics I predict a spike in viewers for the initial release followed by a sharp decline once people realise what a fraud the show will be.

It's more for custom repair stuff, replacing no longer available seals etc

Hey lads, Does anyone have any experience with brake fluid and it's compatibility with different seal materials? I've done my fair share of googling but it will be of further benefit to discuss it more. With dot 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluid I understand most types are a glycol based. Widely available seals are Nitrile 70 (NBR) however this material seems to be "not recommended" or "not suitable" for glycol base brake fluids - but to what extent is what I'm wondering, do the seals perish sooner, or do they just fail within days or weeks of use? Such isn't so clear. Instead ethylene propene (EPDM) seals seem to be the best suggestion for application with brake fluids. The trouble I've found is they are less common and more difficult to get in metric sizes, with only some NZ companies offering them in imperial sizes. Anyone here have knowledgeable insight of such matters? Please share your thoughts!

Good to read this thread I missed. Covers most of the point drawn up in my own post. PS3s it shall be

127km on the listing yet it says miles on the dash. False advertising! That hanging exhaust doesn't do much for "well maintained" description. Seems like an issue you'd fix immediately.