Eagle

The OE mounts generally last a very long time in my experience and rarely truly fail unless they get oil leaking on them. I just replace them because they are very cheap ($10-15ea) and im in the area. Yeah i guess you could say poly is better, but to me i just dont see the need for them and they cost more?

Very good deal for someone that doesnt have most of these. What's the big puller in the middle blue container used on? if you dont mind me asking

Doing the CCV without manifold removal isnt too bad if you have done it before. but as above id take it off and do the pipes at the same time.

Only negatives using poly transmission mounts for the average car. May as well inspect and lube to starter motor if its unknown condition Exhaust gasket for the manifold downpipes and new 4x copper nuts New lock nuts for flex disc depending on where you ordering from Gearbox selector shaft seal (the one the usually leaks) You can do the driveshaft center sleeve bushing if you wanted , but id probably skip it and just lube it up if in good condition (usually is if the guibo hasn't failed) Guibo is easy to source though going by that part number

A classic status would be good but the whole 6\12 month WOF was always a load of crap, aged very poorly too. They should of extended it or just kept it the same. 2000-2010 era cars are the worse for WOF failures in my experience, cheapish to buy and have 12 month WOF, people drive them no cares given to the next WOF and end up with big list. Pre '00 are better as they tend to be looked after more\still on the road and get the 6 month checks.

Sold

Basically brand new. Bought for my E36 but it doesn't work for various reasons. Includes the new genuine plastic bearing $160 shipped

Guessing its a sedan? If so its not really worth anything besides scrap value

Nice, ive never seen one in white. Its too bad the N42 was such a rubbish engine compared to the M44\M42. Im converting my Ti to manual in the weekend but i like the M44 too much to put a M5X in it.

You can measure it up easy enough and pick the best wheel\tire option. Not sure what E60's are like but i run a full size front wheel\tire in 225/40/18 as a spare in my E46. It was optioned with the 126/80R17 space saver. Raises the boot floor slightly (~5mm) but not enough to impact anything. You could glue feet to the boot lining and space it out anyway if you really wanted.

As above you didn't look hard enough. Most of the engine rebuild instructions are there including replacing an alternator belt

Its still a 12V system using a small light so doubt it anything complex. Im assuming its just a 2 pin plug going into the light? Unlikely need a wiring diagram. As above, you just want to check you have voltage at the positive wire on the plug (presumably around 12V when brake applied). Then do a continuity check from the ground wire on the plug (probably brown) to a good ground (negative battery terminal since its in the boot).

Applies to any used vehicle really. Euros may cost more in general but it's vehicle specific. IMO the E36 318ti is the cheapest BMW to buy and keep on the road.

If these threads are anything to go by car dealers never replace any worn trim pieces it seems. Along with the big markup you get a wash, vacuum, silicon spray and maybe some sort of paint correction if you lucky.

Yeah no doubt, still a fair bit of work though. Every manual swap ive done (E36,E39,E46's) owes me 3.5-5k when refreshing parts. If you got the car and kit cheap then it probably makes sense. Most manual conversions tend to be missing bits for the more OCD peeps, so i prefer buying the more costly complete wreck.

To be fair his conversion kits tend to be priced a bit higher than average private seller being a business in all. Not sure what they are really worth but imagine the demand is much lower than the older stuff. Surely its way easier and cheaper to buy a manual one in the first place than convert it (at this point in time).

Mileage is steady and appears to have had decent life being 1 owner and imported in NZ early on. K's mean very little in regards to engine health but you'd do the relevant tests on it anyway. Suspension is stuffed on most old BMW's regardless so you'd likely be replacing most of it if not already done.

Looks like @hybrid's car

Shame they aint higher offset. Finding nice 18's that dont cost thousands in 30's and 40's offset is hard.

You have to be desperate to go to all the effort of removing the dash to replace it with that garbage.

https://salelink.co.nz/collections/car-parts-accessories/products/23pcs-front-wheel-drive-bearing-removal-tool-kit Similar kit to what i use along with a hammer for removal. Getting the axle out can be bigger issue, then you need heater and a big puller.

Lean codes are mostly vacuum leaks on these engines so you need to start with a pressurized smoke test, waste of time imo trying to find leaks without one. You can DIY one easy enough with hardware store etc parts and most people have an air compressor. Test is pretty simple - Remove airbox and ducting, remove the MAF and install a airtight zip lock bag etc on the front on it and re-install it. You can then either remove the F connector from the intake boot in front of the maf and pump smoke in there, or you can use the rubber capped intake ports at the back of the intake manifold (which can leak). This requires removing the cabin filter, housing and side of the ecu box which is straight forward but gives you even more room to see any possible smoke.

If it had rings on then you'd want to re-fit some new ones for sure. 80-100km region is typically when the vibration shows in in my experience with E39 wheels. You can spin the wheels up on the car and look for any excessive runout from the tyre or wheel.

You will find BMW 4cyl before mid 2000s were pretty good, many of them better than the equivalent 6cyl at the time.

Hope got it real cheap