Eagle

Need to scan to determine what is it. Typically the passenger occupancy sensor mat fault or seatbelt pre-tenioner wire\plug loose. Worst case\less likely a module fault. Most workshops should be able to scan it for you

I meant inner door handle. You can get away without removing the outer one to install the locking mechanism although some may find it easier. As long as you can get into the car you can remove the door card with the door closed and go from there (may result in some damage to it)

At that price im not sure why he thinks driving in to Auckland is going to improve his odds. By the looks of it he's only just started replacing all the original parts that are at their end of life cycle.

E36 are easy compared to anything that came after. I only removed the glass, window rail and door handle.

Yeah sorry i was getting mixed up. Yeah replaced the door lock mechanism, actuator was fine. You could probably pull it apart and inspect it, maybe repair it. We just dont have time for that for went for 2nd hand one. 3k for a new one at the dealership if you feeling rich.

Did a customers one last week for the exact same problem, typical actuator mechanism jam. Luckily managed to get it released by working the inner mechanism and giggling the door.

Id say a gamble - no mechanical history, not great spec and cosmetically very flawed for an M3. My E46 was basically the non-m version of this(besides the interior work) when hqstu bought at 290,000km. Mostly on original parts with the clutch the only big item been done.

Owned both in manual and auto form and you certainly feel the added weight of the V8, plus steering rack vs box makes a big difference in feel, hard not to notice that. The auto 540i is probably near 200kg heavier than a manual 6 cyl depending on options. 540i is great on the open road when you need passing power but mostly wasted if you doing typical Auckland driving. A M54 in good running condition with working vanos has great torque for a old 3L.

Buy a msport 530i and swap the manual bits into it. Not quite as fast as a 540i but way more reliable, better handling and you can use most of the parts from your 528i (540i mostly limited to interior, exterior and rear suspension parts from 528i). The average auto 540i is too much of a ticking timing bomb with timing chain guides, unreliable transmissions as well as the usual E39 issues. So unless its been owned by someone like @hqstu or someone who has thrown lots money at it, id probably avoid it.

Fair enough, if have to pay someone to install it probably makes more sense. I always inspect them and replace the brushes etc if needed. Remanufactured\rebuilt is such a broad term that you dont really know what you are truly getting for your money, same with alternators.

Never replaced a BMW starter motor in my life. All the cars ive ever owned look to have the original units in them. Id trust used OE starter over aftermarket.

All the BMW ive owned with factory LSD's were listed as a separate option. Easy enough to check regardless. Not sure about practical given the hassle swapping diffs? but certainly cheaper and you can have a track and street gear ratio too.

Should show up on VIN decoder unless someone has retrofitted one. Last time i saw one for sale was $1500 and you dont know what condition the clutches. Either way its not cheap given mfactory ones around around 2k+setup costs if you pay someone.

Blew his load on the engine

All the ones ive come across and owned with factory LSD's are earlier 6 cylinder models without traction control, typically M50 engines. Like the E34's before it once ASC was standard equipment they tended to stop using them. There are examples of cars having both but its not very common, maybe customer optioned or certain packages in other countries?. Mfactory is probably the best aftermarket for the money imo - clutch or helical types.

Given the same condition and price id always take NZ new over import but that's probably not a likely scenario in used car market. My main issue with imports (usually Japanese and Singapore stuff) is the region specific electronics, body panels, sometimes odd things like Jatco transmissions etc. Less of an idea what sort of life its had\no history. Not really applicable to an M2 but the worst cars ive owned and problematic ones i see on a daily basis are typically low k~100,000km imports, mostly entry level models that have usually been imported way later in life as opposed to a few years. NZ new cars do seem to be generally cosmetically worse eg stone chips and have higher k's, but usually some sort of service history with BMW's and more of an insight of it life.

Cavity wax works very well and the internal areas are pretty well sealed. Usual case of buying first gen or earlier generation products, later versions are almost always improved upon. Vincebar and CMP were the only hidden options that were available when i was looking.

Even dumber response in the Q&A. Q: Car lost control? Or did the driver lose control A: Both Is this guy trying to defend someone feelings or something.

Only if cant see or read

Sold

The average car reads around 5km over actual GPS speed in my experience, most of BMW ive owned have as well iirc except my old E30 which read 10-11kph too high. Current cars are both +\- 1km though. Probably some correction value programmed into the instrument cluster.

New genuine upper spring perches for lowering. P\N - 31336764093 $20

Eibach Pro-kit springs for 330ci sedan and coupe. Near new condition. Can include Febi E90 strut tops for extra if you want additional ~10mm lowering - $300 Meyle HD front control bushings. Near new, removed to fit Z4M bushings - $20

Ah yes Schmiedmann customer 'service', they are great until you have an issue.

Engine bay looked filthy. Wonder if that why no pics no advert?