Eagle

Only go to replace the rest of the original worn parts now

Pedals like those with no rubbers are bloody dangerous in certain conditions.

Looking at Pirelli site they appear very similar\same grouping to the P7's i have on my compact, made in asia somewhere too iirc. Those are generally slightly better stats if you go by their performance ratings. I can't fault mine for a daily driver in any area especially since they were only $99 each.

Sway bar bolt hole is typically larger than the link bolt but shouldn't be by much ~1mm. They do have fairly high torque value so shouldn't move if tightened correctly. Have you done any other front end work? or what been replaced? Manually checked\felt for any play in bushings, ball joints, steering joints\bushings etc when wheels off the ground and\or loaded?

May of rounded out the hole a bit. Could try to lower the strut down and try to press it in with a c clamp.

I remove and reuse those studs all the time. They have always gone back in fine using the same nut to draw them in and holding/pushing them up by hand. I'd just get a 2nd hand one. They are stepped with splines so unless you get a bolt with with the same step or add small washer to fill in you are leaving a small gap.

Ive always liked 80's German blue interiors. Some balance between light and dark and something different. Grey is just really depressing to me, many cars i never bought due to that. My E39 tan\beige interior was nice but had the black dash and other trim pieces which balanced it out a bit. Worst looking interior when worn and dirty like most Nissan Tidia driving around

Yeah having Koni's and the adjustability would certainly help.

Tilted trolling?

Weird code and wording but aftermarket scan tool so no surprise. If it is the OBC immobilizer then you could try a reset. Ive seen the procedure at some point but cant remember. Google search will yield no doubt.

Eibach pro-kit is basically the same ride quality as OE sport springs, but slightly lower to remove gap. They work well OE dampers and are black so look stock too. Maybe not the best choice for tourings it seems but are fine for the more common sedan and coupes. Ive run never H&R sports but they are lower and firmer than the above, uprated dampers seem to be always suggested which bumps costs up or at least harder on stock units. May or not be an issue but it could be an expensive exercise especially if you dont like the change.

Yeah when I looked I'm sure they were all the same number as Olafs. End digits may of been missed on Spareto or wherever I looking

Springs are calculated based on options and body style I presume hence no part numbers. Assuming no one has swapped them they are probably correct. As you know Eibachs prokit are soft and non specific, so stock touring appears to be the better choice

Was beginning to think i was the only here. May take me awhile but i could probably build up a quality tool set for a similar price than some cheapo new one. Facebook marketplace can deliver too despite the rubbish 'search'. Used Koken stuff (mainly ratchets) always seem to be for sale on trademe for around $50. What ive used for most of my wrenching life - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/sets-kits/listing/4405203721 Love my Fenix headlamp. I know some people dont like them, but i wear mine much that forget its even there sometimes. Lamps have their uses too.

Tightening bolts etc like that via rattle gun is incompetence/inexperience like you said. Average alignment shop doesn't have the best tool selection but you provided tools, no excuse regardless. Bad luck i think, maybe you got more cowboys down there in Christchurch. I tend to use only one alignment shop + dealer here in Hamilton because ive never had an issue in over decade. F\L toe is a bit poor. Guess you going back in BMW once you get it all sorted\certed anyway.

Yeah if it has spark then pull all the plugs, fuel pump relay and crank it over without them for a bit and retest. Pump could also be priming but not supplying correct pressure at rail. Pulling the fuel return at the rail if is the basic way to check.

I get thr feeling that japanese stuff was more common place and probably cheaper back in the day. Aigo spanners used to common and cheap, now they fetch good money 2nd hand. Used quality hand tools are one of the best things you can buy with money, they don't tend to lose value, last forever and never become obsolete.

I just like stuff that holds up for life and feels good to use, just like id buy a quality used car over a cheap new one any day. Started off using my father Koken set hes had since 70's, still perfect and been used quite a by me over the years. BMW's are pretty good but when you working in tight awkward areas undoing stuff in more comes into play, those tool test channels like Project Farm etc give you a idea.

Is it getting spark? Pull plug\coil, make sure its no flooded then ground it and crank. Bad CPS shouldnt trigger the fuel pump and or coils. Slight bump in rpm on the gauge when cranking too is another basic test but easy enough to do the proper resistance check on the M60 with a multimeter.

If you knew were to get them in the past there were some good deals via i-tools in Wellington eg $349 for m18 high torque.

Toolpro ratchets suck and fail easy like most of the cheap brands. Plenty of good second hand stuff around ive bought Koken and Snap-on ones for around $50 and can they can be rebuild for around that price if needed.

Lives down the road from me. Seen it for sale for the road. Not bad but nothing really special about it. Good thing for buyers its still basically the same price as it was nearly a decade ago.

Shipping cost for 2x bump stops converted to NZD. FCP (not to mention the always way overpriced genuine parts) - $67 Rockauto - $27 Spareto - $48 Schmedimann - $36 Turners - $28 (better than i though) They also have the most balanced shipping cost calculator ive found. All the others adding certain items that weight nothing\arent large ramp the shipping cost up considerably, near doubling alot of the time. You could probably email to sort this but i cant be fooked with that rigmarole.

Both are i suppose but technically not as good as they once were. Britool is the more cheaper brand now days. That same ratchet cost about $400 here in NZD, no way id pay that for one given they are made in Taiwan). Ive got Bahco ratchet spanners and screwdrivers which i cant fault. I dont think id bother with anything fuller for any use in my experience. I dont find the difference price between typical higher end Taiwanese stuff (Toptul, King Tony, Genius Gearwrench etc etc) and mid range that much for your basic tool kits. In saying that every brand has their good and bad stuff for the price depending on your needs. I always keep an eye out for quality 2nd hand stuff on trademe or facebook as too you can pickup some good bargains.

Yeah just about everything, crank bolts or axle nuts may or not work vehicle dependent but will do everything else in most cases. If you don't have a rattle gun and can only buy one then its certainly the one to get in the Milwaukee range. The M12 3\8" fuel ratchet is mostly my Japanese front of engine tool time saver, BMW's i tend to work on i can use the impact in most spots or just use hand tools easy enough. https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/britool-hallmark-prxl-12pc-extra-long-flat-ratchet-ring-spanner-set-8-19mm/ I bought this from the same place for around $~350 landed at the time. Was the only set i could find (at the time) that wasn't crazily priced. They don't feel as nice as higher end Taiwanese, US etc ones but they have held up nearly 6 years of full time use without issue. https://www.tooljunction.co.nz/products/toptul-flat-type-extra-long-double-ring-wrench?variant=41195417501845&currency=NZD Ive got one of these which i used to use before the above. Does the job of cracking fasteners before you switch to normal ratchet spanner or wrench https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/facom-sxl-161-12-dr-extendable-ratchet-264-397mm/ Not really a must but have but i use it all the time for any thing 1\2" related, suspension and turning engines over being the main ones. Ability to extend to give breaker bar like leverage then shrink when in tighter spaces is very handy.