Eagle

Low k's but maybe high hours, either way it's still 15 years old and probably on all original parts.

Bicycle Edit: I was serious. Obviously its situational and distance dependent but i save about 1-1.5k on fuel + all the other running costs when biking 16km per day, 4 days per week.

Nope

Revealed a hairline crack on the subframe floor awhile ago whilst cleaning (the usual L\H crease). I was planning on dropping the subframe anyway so went ahead. Luckily it didn't appear to be any additional failed welds or cracks, but Redish V3 plates will be going in anyway once Fedex Australia sorts their sh*t out. New subframe bushings and inner control arm bushings done whilst its out. Inspected the clutch\flywheel. Very little wear so must of been replaced not too long ago. Re-used the flywheel and installed a new clutch kit. New winner for the hardest job on this car. Not something you ever want to do on axle stands with standard floor jack with a cramped transmission tunnel to boot. Unfortunately the refurbished slave cylinder was weeping, probably due contaminated fluid from wear given the marks in the cylinder. Seal still looked ok so honed the better spare cylinder swapped it over and bled it. Appears to be holding for now but will refurbish the old one again for insurance. Cleaned all the solenoids, drained all the fluid and flushed some new stuff thru using the pump so hopefully cleared it out. Driveshaft nose bushing, Meyle HD flex disc and Febi center support done. FAG front wheel bearings, replacement rack and new Meyle HD control arms also done while everything is apart. Just need to do install rear wheel bearings, put everything back together and parts cannon along with the operator can retire for awhile.

Id say that chart is based on whatever mineral oil they were using at the time period. Modern synthetics are far superior.

Id keep running that and monitor usage. 20W is NZ is usually for band aid for a smoker, can't see why you'd run it otherwise.

Yeah msg me if you can't get it sorted. I don't know what modules you need to read for the E36 manual conversion but it will work with all the main ones (DME,EGS,SRS,ABS,EWS)

Ok. The 16>20pin adapter is what ive always used and most common way to connect. Dont think ive ever seen cable like you describe. Mines not for sale but PM me and i maybe able to loan it if local.

What car are you trying to connect to with what software.

Cost me around 2k to refresh most of mine. Plastic coolant flange on back of the head is the only major flaw. Usually do it the same as PCV\hose as the coolant hose is glued together with it Grab a M42 bottom airbox and intake duct if you can, cleans up the engine bay and maybe a better throttle response.

For 90's hatch they aren't that slow up to legal speeds imo (even with the power robbing auto). Most are in average at best mechanical condition and not close to their potential performance wise. Looks the same as mine but without style 43's and jap plate holder.

Penrite ATF FS is what you want. I usually buy a 20L which does 4x drain and fills on these. Probably can get you one at trade price if you like. Id recommend doing the filter and fluid, driving around for a week and doing another drain and fill. This gets rid of most of the old fluid and less likely to upset anything. After that a transmission adaption reset in INPA etc should have it shifting noticeably better. PS - Saw you driving pass Repco that other day.

Comparing your random dyno numbers to factory figures, yep seems legit.

That was the buying part. E30's are cheap to refresh. You may as well drop the whole rear subframe and do all the bushings and brake liines. Weld in eccentric plates\bolts for the subframe are a worth while addition to correct toe out and neg camber from being lowered. Will certainly pay for its self in time by reducing your tire bill.

but it has working aircon (rare) 12-20k + GST LOL. What kind of moron comes up with these prices.

True but i suppose it depends on how much the 'ish mean to you. 10-15k i would expect i could get nearly everything at least average condition.

Yes i used the wrong term in that regard but they are both products of the 80's. Yes ive owned a 525iA and 535iA M30. Suspension basically the same up front with a modified subframe\diff carrier using the same trailing arms. E28's less rigid, aerodynamic but lighter chassis with shorter wheelbase which is where the older feel likely comes from. End of the day its just my opinion no one is going to think or feel the same, im there's people out there who think E12 vs E28, E21 vs E30, E36 vs E46 aren't similar and predecessor is always the more raw\pure version. My general view on cars is unless a complete re-design happens eg E34>E39 they don't tend to be a rapid departure from one generation to the next. Ive always said the M60 is better than the M30 in all except when i comes to working on it, one of the best engines ive come across in that regard.

All cars mentioned in this thread would likely need money spent of them to varying degrees.

E39 530i manual - nicely sized good all rounder with decent power. Imo a better choice than the V8 having owned both in manual\msport form. E87 130i manual or auto- Good daily and\or fun car E36 328i, E46 330i, E90 330i manual - final 3 N\A sixes E34 540i - Most reliable BMW V8 ever made E34 535i - M30B35 workhorse

The suspension design, steering, engines, interior design\layouts are 80's tech which the E28 also used, hence the comment. To me E39's feel like the older 'modern'. E34 535is have generally been a 3-10k car for as long as i can remember(~10 years) and still appear to go for that. Sure there's been the odd 20k+ examples but as above.

Just about anything provides better value with current E30 pricing. One could argue a E34 535is is better value for money than the E28. Like E36 vs E46 they are very similar in most regards.

Id say the only time you'd really see smoke is the the CCV completely fails. I figured the old ones were just clogged up or diaphragms were getting old\worn and maybe had slight leaks. Yeah rings are a very known weak point. If everything on the outside of engine is working you just live with it. If you drive at Autobahn speeds with a lot of engine braking you will certainly use more.

Had one at work last month very similar spec to this one. Was a 2k repair bill for ABS module and a few other bits so naturally got written off.

All back together. New Lemforder tie rods, boots, OE swaybar bushings, boot struts and cam sensors for good measure. Aligned to BMW spec for now but just about everything is back to being the job properly. Steering rack will probably be changed in future also as it has some wear on center.

Yeah i saw that and it seemed a bit off. Ive installed the cold weather one in the past when doing the water pipes under intake.