Eagle

Probably need them for the ever increasing number of terrible drivers

Star Insurance Modern hobby for the E46. Seem to be one of the few that had agreed value while being well priced @ $585 p.a. Classic didn't want to insure my vehicle as it was too modern or generic according to them.

That's styling in general these days esp front ends. As above without the grill its basically generic.

B28 would be the easier\cheaper conversion, less engine problems and nicer to work on engine compared to the B30. B30 is basically the opposite of the above. Only real advantage is more power and torque provided the vanos is working properly. MS43 ECU has a lot of community support for modifying etc.

More like Mercedes swapped but good V12 engine choice

Maybe too low ball offers (which would be legitimate in this case) or realized the price was unrealistic?

Yeah 2nd hand dealer approach is usually pure greed. Minimal effort and maximum reward. I understand they are a business, but buying a car, putting a huge margin on it, then not even bothering to address even minor issues nets them no respect from me.

Yeah they have been my go to for awhile and we get our customers cars done there too. Never had an issue with a vehicle driving poorly after being done.

Finally got the welding done. Certainly not a job i ever want to do on axle stands again but i think it looks decent for an amateur? Penetration appears good so certainly don't anticipate any future problems. Paint will have to wait due to weather.

Im sure it is but for an imported, manual converted and engine swapped car the pricing seems optimistic

Don't see the point tbh. Exchanging the key blade involves cutting open a sealed key and having to cut and re glue the blade etc and risking damaging it. Just not worth it for not having to swap the battery every few years. As for charging i would think the IR equipped car use the same antenna ring as RF (which does the charging). Maybe check BMW parts numbers via http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/

Haha I wouldnt stake on that claim either

"These engines are bullet proof' such an over used\exaggerated term, i don't even know what its suppose to mean anymore. Guess its cylinder head rebuild before 200,000km for this guy.

Maybe be ticked them up against the mortgage

I didnt see that, posted at same time. Yeah would be good to know. Does certainly seem to be some conflicted info looking at pictures and part numbers. Catalogue pictures have always been correct in my experience but maybe they arent in this case Either way if it looks like the above its a no go if not then you should be good.

Not sure why. Do does it looks like this ? https://www.bildelsbasen.se/nb-no/pb/Søk/Bildeler/s1/BMW/BMW-6-E63&64/2002_2010/Girkasse-&-Drivaksel-&-Mellomaksel/Girkasse-6-Trinn/Alle/ID-41373351/23017563660#pb_product_image_group

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E63/Europe/650i-N62N/R-N/browse/manual_transmission/manual_transmission_gs6s53bz_smg/ Same box as the E46 6 speed SMG\SSG with a different bellhousing

As far as i know the 650i never had SMG III which was for M5 and M6. SMG II was for E46 M3 but used the same system setup iirc.

It occurred to me you may of been talking about converting the SMG box itself to H pattern? (i was thinking SMG vehicle>H pattern at the time) If so then its not practically possible to convert as the shift actuator is bolted on to the rear housing to form part of it, then uses a shortened internal selector rod (SMG II is just a external actuator attached to the H pattern shift rod). It could be done i think if you had a broken H pattern swapped parts ove

Yeah should be both MS43. Maps are likely different but you are reflashing. I've never tried cleaning them myself. Never saw the point when you can replace them for 150ish and be done with it given they are already decades old. Suppose be done every 150000km. You can clean them yourself via diy methods but they proper machines will spray, flow and leak test them well. Was around $25 per injector last time I did it so not too expensive. I was thinking installing seal on crank not the cover. I've always just put them in flush. A workshop maybe able to do it or have something machined up maybe if tool is costly.

Looks like its had a rough life and your right it probably deserves a rebuild. Im going say likely an import? Water pump damage wouldn't worry me, cant do much about it anyway. Oil on the intake ports will be from the inside the manifold. Those feet with bolt hole where the gasket sits on the manifold are just a press fit and im sure allow oil to seep past. Are those codes that have been cleared already? Factory software is good as it logs details of the fault and how many times it has occurred. You could add: O2 sensors to the list but they are hard to find without going universal (well one bank is anyway hence why i haven't done mine yet). Injectors cleaned and tested + seals. Maybe fuel lines to rail The rear main seal should come with a plastic cone tool which does the job.

Car version of hot potato

I'm curious what the shipping process for gearbox etc is like. What did it cost or you still waiting for a tax bill etc?

Yeah i guess its the same reasoning i applied while with doing the full subframe reinforcement, just about everything is out so why not. Could of just done the underside which probably would have been fine based on what i know now, but fact is you can't fully know that car is 100% without cutting holes and inspecting. I would think in general anyone doing this sort of repair work would have adequate welding quality given the scope of it. Once sealed and painted etc and put back together it would be much hard to critique. The cert guy isn't really applicable to my situation but the people who engineered the fix are the only people id query if needed.

Underside and floor mostly prep'd for welding next week. Wheel arches and trailing arm pockets will be stiched reinforced also along with redoing some of the spot welds that were a bit iffy. The poor factory MIG welds for the front threaded receiver under the rear seats will be redone too. Finally the trunk floor reinforcement plates that connect the floor to the side of chassis legs. Underside plate are also plug welded from the trunk floor cavity for an even stronger connection.