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So at the behest of my wife I sold my Jap import E36 325i and it left me with my "Project" 93 325i coupe and as I always seem to be doing something to it I just don't get to drive it very often. Turners had a 96 318is coupe on a dollar serve so I had a bid and got it for a grand, its not bad had a leaking oil filter boss and worn front bushes but pretty cheap to fix them, and of course it was Silver so it matches my hair. My wife gave me that look that says I am not impressed but I ignored and said the car was actually for my boy, so that was ok. Then perchance I saw a 330ci advertised on TM for 4k. Now 4k 330ci's are not common so I rang him and he said just got back from holiday and I have a lot of messages re the car but come and have a look if you like. I had a drive and noticed a leaking valve cover but no other major concerns so I shook hands on it. Now 5 weeks later I am actually going to pick it up, I thought the seller was a bit dodgy as he wouldn't return my calls but he said he had to get a new transponder key from Germany so I could lock the car. If it is dodgy then I can always ell it as a parts car, car Jam says it has no money owing on it and the owner is the first NZ owner so fingers crossed km's are 180. My wife is unimpressed, but I am happy and after all I feel thats whats most important.

http://www.bayleys.co.nz/Listings/Waikato/Taupo/Lake-Taupo/4500518 Formally, properly up for sale. By tender (of course) since a realtor these days doesn't actually value anything. (PBN, POA, Negotiation, Tender, auction "let the market decide"... Winds me up reet proper, that does.) I thought a starting offer of $11.35 and free chips for long-standing TCC members every other Saturday might just take it.

Rossfeldrennen 2014 - Oldtimer Bergrennen - Autos 27 - 35 - BMW special enjoy

got my gross crash damage sorted - and at the same time the crew did my random bumper for $175.... the first quote i got was $700 -.-

Errr... maybe ARMY? It's good, but it's not easy.

The Silvia was a genuine $2k purchase that needed a few things tidied up, in saying that we give a bit of slack for people who are racing in the series for the fun of it. We take great pride in our integrity and we were not swayed by the fact his family also catered the last round free of charge, we are not suckers for free food so make sure if you ever need a food truck you contact https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hungri-Hunter-Ltd/299962780017228 because it was a damn fine feed. Ok, maybe our integrity goes out the window when you put on catering at the final round

I've done a LOT of research subsequently and ended up just biting the bullet and pulling the actuators in my M3 out myself to see what was going on with them. Sure enough... the gears were all pretty badly worn. A very well known BMW dealership in AKL told me the only options were to replace the full actuators, fully re-program the entire electronics on the car (???) and that it was best to replace both at the same time. They quoted me $1750 +GST per actuator at two weeks ex-Germany to get the parts. I did a lot of searching and worked out I can import brand new OEM actuators straight off the internet and paying customs, freight, GST and currency conversion for about $1000 each. The dealer also quoted me 8-10 hours labour to replace them. Having just pulled them out myself it probably took me about 2 hours tops to remove them using guides on other forums - it will probably take me even less to re-install them. So they can go jump with their quote for 10 hours! One crazy thing to note.... all brand new actuators still have the exact same issue with the gears wearing as they contain identical parts as the very first actuators used. - Siemens VDO, who make them still use the plastic on plastic gears and same materials. So brand spanking new actuators eventually wear out too so the root cause has never been resolved by BMW/Siemens VDO. After much deliberation I've decided Im going to buy a pair of aftermarket gear seats from a member at M3Cutters - these are custom machined gears that remove the plastic on plastic contact by using a combination of brass and a different formula of plastic. Theyre about 200 pounds per set so not cheap but should hopefully actually solve the inherent design fault with the OEM gears. If I install them and the electrics fail on the actuators shortly afterwards, as can also happen, then I'll import one or two brand new actuators from the US and then swap my gears over into the new ones. Heres some really useful links if anyone is interested. http://forums.m3cutt...ead.php?t=94742 http://www.m5board.c...e-actuator.html http://forums.m3cutt...hlight=actuator

Car Fairs - if you can be bothered to haggle and are confident you can spot a lemon before buying it. Wave a wad of cash at the sellers and there can be good deals to be done. Might be a bit below your price bracket though, you never know?

A 320is would be pretty sweet. More power than a 325i and presumably less weight.

I had to laugh at this.... was going to ask how many you get and where they're from http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/dinghies-rowboats/inflatable/auction-883911314.htm

Hopefully not a divorce lawyer, after all my wife is younger than me, better looking by far and earns more money than me, plus she secretly likes BMW's she just doesn't want to admit it publicly. Now all I have to do is find replacement trim for the E46 as I am not a big faux wood fan and perhaps some bilsteins or Konis and some 18'a nd some Pirellis and some ......................

Enter the e34 crunchy, just have to bring a bbq with ya

health family friends my dogs the ability to travel

Might have fixed the suspension computers diagnosed issues

Guess that means I'll be living in a shed with my cars in the middle of nowhere in years to come

So its been pretty quite at work and i brought some injectors to get cleaned up, I was going to send them off and have them re done for about $200 but i thought i could do it cheaper, The plan, Have a injector connected to a pulsing circuit and run a cleaning solution through it under pressure. So far i have made up the circuit and it works really well about 30ms between each pulse. see photo below Hers the circuit it is just a simple 555 Timer circuit driving a solenoid. So now all i want to do is be able to run a cleaning solution through the injector while it is pulsing, Whats your ideas i was thinking a pump of some sort ( fuel ? ) with a adjustable FPR that feeds into the injector so i can test them properly, Let me know your ideas please ! I also need a injector plug !!!! -- so i can connect it to the circuit with out shorting things together, And a fuel rail ?!!!! - i really only want to connect one injector at a time tho not 6 any ideas ? FPR Pump I know its nothing compared to a proper ultrasonic clean and getting flow tests but its much more fun !!

Yip that's sport mode

Everyone seems to have forgotten about the Integra that ran a type R gearbox in season one and got away with it, he did also provide catering for the final round. Starting to see a theme here.... The majority of the people in 2KCUP will take free food over integrity of the rules(this is proven when we vote for penalties), because everyone knows what a real $2k car is, who have spent mega bucks and who is just having a bit of cheap fun.

Very very eloquent Lionel. You captured the true essence of what a person feels when they have a love for something dear to them in a way that not many other people can understand well done ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have an E34 530i manual (with 4.0l now). My Co. car is a new Nissan Juke cvt jobbie. My theory is that during the week, I drive a very civil, quiet, non offensive, nonchalant unassuming vehicle (some may say hideous) that is designed to go from A to B, using piss all fuel attracting next to no attention minding its own business. When I refuel, I hope out, pay, hop back in drive, repeat. Come the weekend, I do the opposite, and I am literally dying for the analog experience. I sit in the car, and absorb for a minute. I turn the key, and actually hear the fuel pump whirring, and all of the other machinations rising like a symphony before the explosion that is called my rear box delete, its rough at first whilst it is clearing its throat and settles from an idle some 1100 to 800, before I careful adjust my psyche to suit. It is an experience that I never tire from due to previous few days of civil (some say boring) transport. I would go the E34 for the rush, but that's just me. It's like everything else, during the weekend I wear bare feet, it's good for me.

I have to seriously question the 2k thing cost wise, i was there weekend just gone and watched a manual Silvia rotating in the field,i could be wrong but when do you ever see one of them under 2k? Did see the E30 cruzin home after the meeting followed him for a while up the motor way

Same as you Ash..... Whores .... actually I was looking through the inflatable dinghies listings

Mate you don't need to spell to pass NCEA.

Just a thought have you had a look at the idle control valve and what sort of fuel flow do you have to the fuel rail. When I changed the fuel filter on mine the fuel coming out of it was black.

So good I'm skeptical . On a related matter, Koru club!

That pic isn't an E39 though, right? Or is this for the E60 sport mode mod???? First pic looks like E39. If you're fitting them elsewhere, or plastic welding things to fit them, you could maybe rewire to VW ones: shop.carstyle4u.com has some cool ones (and weird ones!) and I've heard he's done custom ones for people: http://shop.carstyle4you.com/

A vacuum leak would be there almost all the time. And would have to be huge to make it stall. My first thoughts were failing crank sensor

fix the vac leak 1st . also does it start up straight away?? sticking throttle body ? fuel pump dieing??

Right, sorry, need sleep. Regardless, real testament to your boost-related know-how.

Gave it a wash for the meeting this morning

Repinned the broken MAF plugs. Some of the pins just wouldn't budge (even with correct AMP pin removal tool) so I ended cutting the plug off one side. In so doing I must have squished a couple of the pins as they wouldn't stay in the new plug when I connected it. Have fixed it but next time the plugs need replacing, so will the pins. Still, it'll be good for a few years!! Here's my best guess for wiring colours in case anyone else that has to do this. The wires were old and quite discoloured so please chime in and correct anything that looks wrong. RHS 1 Yellow/grey 2 Red/blue 3 Purple/white 4 Brown 5 Brown/white 6 Blue/white LHS 1 Brown/yellow + white dashes 2 Red/blue 3 Brown/purple 4 Brown 5 Brown/white + yellow dashes 6 Brown/grey + yellow dashes

Having my brothers missus work at Silver Fern Farms means I get heaps of cheap steak. Only downside is that I have to cut it up myself and I would make a sh*t butcher.

Front sway bar end links arrived from FCP Euro today so I put the sway bar back in with those... the ones that came out were dire. Back to non-bus handling!

My soul died when I went to Hamilton.