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Been collecting this little lot for some time. A few things I forgot when I did the front suspension and complete rear overhaul. Wish I had the time to do it but I can live without pressing bushings, so letting the pros take care of it!!

seem to be popular latley

Picked up from Team McMillan in Auckland.

Bet they wern't expecting that to happen. http://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/news/69026988/volkswagen-golf-springs-drag-race-surprise

Would rather drive a slow Porsche than a fast Golf.

Two on here Dude. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52932-1994-bmw-540i-e34/ http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52958-bmw-e34-525i-palm-nth/ That can buy you a lot of E34, the market rate is poor, which is great news for you!

Not a E34 but you did say 4 door, I have a 318i that I am trying to sell, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=893880968 Meanwhile, In Soviet Russia. Buy off all E34's in the market, they will be sold for Gold, Millions to be made. Buy them all off.

New job is great thanks. In banking sector so quite a contrast from Government , best part is my team has a number of petrol heads so plenty to talk about in the lunch room. Finished off a 20 y/o bottle of wine tonight bar a mouthful left over from a wedding present. Life is good

Serves me right of taking a swig of wine before golf appeared. Need clean pollo shirt !

Close to immaculate 5 series. Lovely car, $2500 0274242086 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=895814164

Does anyone know of a resource(not Wikipedia) for looking up production numbers of BMW's by year and model? I've spent hours searching the web with no luck. I've found total numbers of a particular model built. But I'd like to be able to break that down to ideally yearly build numbers or at the very least pre and facelift models. Like how many 95-98 E38's were built and how many 98-01 facelifts but also to be able to break that down further into models such as 728i 730i and il and so on right up to the 750i and 750il. This is the type of information I've found so far. For example the total build numbers for the E30. By Market: Market Total_Production anon 10295 ECE 1812718 IDN 6334 MYS 2771 THA 20631 URY 432 USA 396649 ZAF 94511 By Model: Model Total_Production 316 126659 316i 385294 318i 556679 318is 41234 320i 461479 320is 3745 323i 98483 324d 76039 324td 28904 325e 152000 325i 352993 325ix 34862 M3 17970 Z1 8000 By Chassis type: Chassis_Type Total_Production CONVER 143371 ROADST 8000 SAL 2089266 TOUR 103704 By Motor: Motor_Type Total_Production M10 653159 M20 1107817 M21 104943 M40 404674 M42 52033 S14 21715 By Transmission type: Transmission_Type Total_Production AUT 419529 MECH 1924812

Hey guys looking for an E34. Looking at having around a 2.5k budget within the next week. Basically just looking for a 4 door so could be maybe be persuaded into another vehicle. Thanks.

You could also try putting the last 7 digits of your vin into the real oem site, it should return a 4 digit production code.

"You can spend a lot of money making a sh*t car go fast, but you are still left with a fast, sh*t car"

How much is not too much? On these things, what you don't spend up front, better than average chances later you will be for maintenance, performance etc.

Bevan here, live in Hamilton. Just purchased my first e36 (have owned an e30 in the past). Sight unseen 328i sports...what could go wrong? Absolutely nothing. Picked it up on Saturday morning at 8am and drove straight home to Hamilton with no issues what so ever! I'm an auto electrician so at least I'll be able to repair most issues that do pop up myself. Have attached some pictures after the first wash!!

@ least two.... http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/50767-fsswap-e34-540ise-5k-dvke-why-2l-daily-cash-my-way/

Such work is a must on anything thats 15 years old + let alone 25! A lot of certain people forget this is the kinda work you need to do on such older modern cars. Its not all fun 'n games simply spending ones cash on rims and exhausts Keep up the good work.

i've been trying to stay positive and recognize that an almost 10 year old car is going to have some issues but my car is in the shop again! NOW i'm starting to get annoyed! a loud rattling noise under the driver side on start up and a yellow warning light (engine light with half solid triangle symbol) followed by car going into 'limp' mode. won't know whats the cause until tomorrow... grrrrr.....

So I have a 94 540i v8 auto with the dreaded trans program, After a good look yesterday I believe the gearbox to be stuffed as there is a not very nice clunk when I put in reverse Just looking at transmissions and found an e39 5 speed auto, will that fit an e34? If not, what models can I get one from or is it cheaper or easier for a rebuild? Does it have to be from a v8? I've been searching heaps but can't really find what I'm looking for.

Seeing the first cop on the western side of the lake in years when I just happened to be following behind a slow car

Interesting Ray - that's less than my bid. Edit. Have spoken to Howard at Manheim and he tells me the auctioneer only accepted bids in 100 dollar lots. Their website doesn't say that but I can understand why. That's the way it goes - good luck to whoever bought it, I hope it goes back on the road.

Okay so you guys will have seen Johns thread selling the iS lips. http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/52437-is-mtech2-e30-front-splitters/ I was in the very first batch, and got mine yesterday. had had a few cans so thought it was better to wait till today to install. Today couldnt have gone any longer at work, just couldnt wait to get home!!!!!! Anyways, lets get into it Open the box and take it out at least a few hours before you want to install it, and lay it out flat, probably want something on it to make it flat The screws that come supplied are woefully inadequate, these come with them from the USA, and not johns fault! chuck these in the bin. Go to Mitre10 Mega, and pick up the following: - 10x M4 bolts, at least 15mm long, i found a packet was cheapest - 10x M4 nuts, you could use regular ones, i used Nyloc type, dont want it coming loose, and there is no way you would know. Mitre10 part number is 198006 - 20x washers, they are called Fender washers, a suitable size in M4 they didnt have, but they had M5/3/16" type which have worked very well. Mitre10 part number is 901484. these washers are probably not compulsory, and at a dollar a piece, you make your own decision. the lip and the splitter are acrylic and either plastic or fibreglass, so might as well. will take one knock and the heads will pull through. washers are good idea okay once back in the shed, first step is to put on the Mighty Car Mods album on. you should only need it once with the lip on the car already, sit the splitter underneath, and decide how far out you want the splitter. if you use the manufacturer holes, it sticks out a hell of a long way. Personal preferance i guess, but i didnt want a snow plow, or trip over the car every time i walked around the front. take the lip off, put it on the bench upside down, and site the splitter on it, at the same spot. measure out where you will be wanting your holes, they need to be in the center of the lip itself I decided they needed to be 20mm forward of the predrilled holes can be drilled roughly 20mm, doesnt need to be toooooo accurate. drill some pilot holes with a 2mm bit. remember you are working with acrylic, you want to be carefull or it may crack. you are drilling only into the splitter at the moment. then use a 4mm bit and open them up to the size you need for your bolts. M4 = 4mm if you didnt already know. Do this for all the holes that you want to use then upside down with the lip again, and clamp it in place. i used a normal g clamp and a vice grips, just what i had available. make sure the lip is on straight, and sticking out the amount that you want. once you got that sussed, drill your first hole, through the splitter and into the lip with your 4mm bit. the one you want to start with is the very middle one, to lock in your decision how far out you want the splitter. Then put a bolt through with a washer, and put another washer and a nylock on. it it isnt clear, you will want the head of the bolt pointing at the ground after the splitter is on the car. Cool! nearly done! easy eh! should be onto the 4th song in the album about now! make sure your splitter is still lined up correctly on the lip and straight!! next drill the holes on either side of the middle one, and then bolt it in, working your way to the outside. dont work from the other side and come in, because you dont want a warp/wave in the acrylic. at this point, hopefully you are just about done, and, needent do this next step. you may choose to do it anyay.. on mine the very edges (by where the tyres will be), it wasnt sitting against the lip, and had a bit of a wave here too. drill a pilot hole with your 2mm, and then with your 4mm. for this nut and bolt, you do not want a washer of course. this bolt is really only to keep it tight up, will do nothing to contribute to strength because of location. now the last step may or may not need to be done. if you have it mounted all the way out, you should have no excess splitter back here.if you mounted it further back, you will need to trim this, either with a hack saw, or get the grinder out like i do. all nicely trimmed! there, you are done!! should look something like this and a couple of pictures on my cabby. you will have to wait for some better ones at hard park on sunday. its raining here so dont want to put the car outside

looks really good andy

$6700

no has to be a e34 540i type as has the cooler underneath . you couold use a e32 740i with the trans lines and front cooler . electrics have to match up. maybe could use one from a early e38 740i m60 type , but would need to swap electrics over or swap drums , clutches etc over . I know a good trans guy

I commend you for wanting to further your life skills however you have picked a complex one to further your in-devours, Ive been at this over 30 yrs and still learn daily if i was to look at someone like your self i would like to see at least 5 plus years in the industry, bare in mind things are changing daily so you have a hard task ahead.

STFU Dan! SShhh...

imo the e36 coupe is one of the most rewarding cars to modify. simple and cheap mods that make a world of difference and bring huge satisfaction.

Was up at the arse crack of dawn to go see this with a mate who was keen. Will be bringing it back to christchurch on Wednesday. He is a member on here so will try to get him to make a thread. If not I'll do one for him :-)

Resealed the rocker cover on the e36. Looks like that might have been only one of many oil leaks unfortunately though.

The work van doesn't look it but is insanely filthy. Was fighting mud in it driving through a coal mine on Friday haha! Cheers for the comments. I'm going to keep it looking as stock as possible.

Dancing with the Stars, inflicted from better half, well at least some of them look hot even if it is tacky and a c rate show

Found this, thought you guys might like.

Still easier to turbo the original engine than swap in a poxy 1j with auto trans

Yes, I too smell a ruse.. very cunning. It's an NZ new car, so it can't be rusty... everybody knows that ONLY UK imports get rust .

I have had a look. Its full of rust and there is a subwoofer in the pace tray.

I bought this car 2 years ago through the "special interest vehicle" scheme that NZTA have. I bought from a private seller advertising it on Pistonheads after I had been granted a permit. It is a 2003 model that has had 3 owners with 1 owning it for 8 of the then 10 years. My interest in the M5 goes back to 2002 when my son's father in law had one as his work car (believe it or not). I was lucky enough to get to drive it once and was very impressed. I considered buying a second hand one at the time but it was beyond my resources. That car was oxford/caramel so I've had a hankering for one like that ever since It did however get me into BMWs, my first being an E46 330d. I really enjoyed owning this, especially the torque it produced. Since then I have sampled a few of their torquier engines but the E39 M5 was always in the back of my mind as the benchmark. To get back to the said car, I took a punt on the seller being straight with me and he answered all my questions and supplied plenty of photos. He took it to an independent BMW service garage for an inspection. Their view was that it was a good example with the only rust they could find was on some of the fastenings and it would benefit from a clean up. Also mileage was correct. After I got it home I have spent a lot of time cleaning it and also getting my local BMW tech to bring everything else up to date. Including... Engine oil and filter, gearbox oil, rear brake rotors, skim front rotors, cam cover gaskets, gear shift link refresh, both bumpers off repainted, bonnet and door repaint, replace rear scuba boxes (supplied by Ray from one of his wrecks), new tyres, battery, mats and steering wheel. Plus a few shipments of fastenings etc from the UK. Here are some photos... There is a depth of knowledge and enthusiasm for the marque here on Bimmersport which I enjoy. I've met up with some of the M5 owners, Martin, Glenn and Darren who are all very helpful. I hope you enjoy my post.