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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/15 in all areas
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6 points
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6 pointsTrade Me user not allowing me to pick up a couple of CDs, instead he posts them with El-cheapo $2.75 post, they get lost and I never receive them. He raves on with excuses and then files for lost items via NZ posts. After weeks and weeks of dialuge still nothing. Two months later NZ post isn't doing anything as hes fed them some sort of lies about it being found, even though I never got them. The seller has also declined to reimburse me in any way, not even with CDs of a similar value. I just found today he has blacklisted me from his other auctions. What does that say about his integrity - he just thinks I've got them and have tried to lie so I can get my money back. I've just filed a Trade ME non delivered item report, probably wont do much, but we shall see..... The two CDs were only $28.51 including shipping but its not the point, the sellers "In Trade" with 3000+ feedbacks yet is unwilling to help when his non tracked shipping fails to deliver them. It's more the principle of resolving the situation, I don't care for the CDs or money but the fact the seller thinks he can just move on is what annoys me. I'll keep poking at this until I get a result.
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4 points
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4 pointsSome love to be given. Into Precision Auto for some love thanks to insurance.. Respray on the side skirt, wheel dents and curbing fixed, and some clear coat peeling problems to be fixed.. She also hit the mighty 270kms.
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3 pointsWould anyone like to have some workshop experience for a week starting the 28th September ? Must have a full license and be of tidy appearance and speak english Give me a call (09) 2722546 0r 021921377 Ask for Glenn
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3 points
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsBMW M6 GT3. In 2016, the BMW M6 GT3 will replace the BMW Z4 GT3, which has been in action since 2010. The new car is powered by a 4.4-litre V8 engine with M TwinPower Turbo technology, which has been modified for use in motor racing. The power train has dry sump lubrication and generates up to 585 hp – with the whole car weighing less than 1,300 kilograms. Further technical characteristics of the BMW M6 GT3 are the drive concept, six-speed sequential racing transmission, and high-performance motorsport electronics. The aerodynamic properties of the chassis have been optimised in the BMW wind tunnel. The engineers worked meticulously to fine-tune the BMW M6 Coupé, which formed the basis for the new car and was already perfectly suited to outings on the racetrack. Priority was given to ensuring maximum driver safety. To offer the drivers of the BMW M6 GT3 as much protection as possible against the effects of an accident, BMW Motorsport itself developed and produced the FIA-approved safety cell in accordance with the very latest safety standards. The engineers also placed great importance on efficiency and ease of maintenance, as well as reliability, which is particularly crucial at the 24-hour classics. The development of the BMW M6 GT3 incorporated all the experience that BMW Motorsport gained with the car’s successful predecessor, the BMW Z4 GT3. For example, the new GT3 racing car boasts many improvements, particularly when it comes to driveability and economy. The positioning of the driver’s seat towards the centre of the car and the long wheelbase make driving the BMW M6 GT3 a unique experience in the world of motor racing. The net price for the car is 379,000 Euros.
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3 pointsfaaaaaaa that timeless ad for the e38 is amazing with awesome clear pics. so much want...
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2 pointsI have nice tidy E23 that I am selling on behalf of a friend. We're both very fond of this car and would like to see it go to a good home. 1986 E23 735i New Zealand new Only 178,000 km Excellent 3.5 litre M30 engine Electric sunroof Fog lights Original owners manual Nearly complete tool kit First aid kit in the rear seat armrest. The kit includes all the supplies still in their original plastic bags and a handy multi-lingual book on first aid. Rare Water Buffalo Leather interior; an entire herd of water buffalo must have given their lives for this car. There is leather everywhere: door cards, dash, center console, etc. The seats are in excellent shape other than two holes in the backrest of the driver's seat. The leather is slightly stained in a couple of places and is nicely worn in but does not look shabby. The tyres (Bridgestones on the front and Michelins on the back) have good tread on them Haven't found any rust anywhere on the car Recent transmission service Well maintained Runs and drives very well; comfortable and stable at speed. Dependable. I wouldn't hesitate to jump in and drive anywhere in the country in it. I also have a BMW towbar available for this car as well; it just bolts right in to existing mount points. There is no need to drill any holes. Due to some SI board swapping, the trip computer no longer reports fuel consumption. The body is very straight and tidy but there is a small dent repair on the left front fender. The paint has peeled and a bit of the bog has been chipped away. It's not really noticeable from a few meters away but it really should be fixed properly. The clearcoat is faded to the point of being effectively gone on the the bonnet, roof, and boot lid. The base color is still all there and there is no rust. I have been quoted $600 to repaint all of this. These panels really just look faded, unlike most cars with missing clear coat. There are a variety of light cracks in the dash. There is a light clunk in the front suspension. I suspect it's a top mount. Current rego and WOF. It's not perfect but it is a very good original classic sharknose BMW The car can be available to view and test drive anywhere between Timaru and Christchurch. $2,700 ONO Call or send me a PM if you have any questions. 027 55 55 116
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2 pointsHey guys, so after a couple of weeks and a few stupid glitches all is well. Averaging 15-16L/100 with mixed driving. Well and truly worth every cent, I've found the Idrive is far more user friendly than what I've read from other people's experiences. The acceleration as I'm sure you can appreciate is surreal in 3rd, 4th and 5th. 1st and 2nd gear are a lost cause.
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2 pointsEnjoyed a 2 days business trip to Hamilton Tokoroa Rotorua Taupo Whakatane Tauranga and back with my 540i... Thr car wad brilliant, fast, safe, economical (10,1L/100km)but i have to say that the road network outside the motorway sucks....Especially the tarmac quality is so rough. Plus so many bloody trucks. They are EVERYWHERE.
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2 pointsSeems after Trade Me has got on his case hes suddenly decided to give me a refund. 80s CDs for my 90s OEM CD player of course. I like the nostalgia. On some days I play tapes too...
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2 pointsIf anyone was seriously looking for a nice e9 they would go see it in person anyway.
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2 pointsMy favorite trick is when people use the photos of the car when they bought it off the last owner 5 years ago or something. Lazy buggers, clean the car and take some current photos!
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2 points
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2 points
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1 pointStraight in to taking care of the important bits, the engine. Vanos test in GT1 tells me the exhaust advance value on Bank 1 in crank degrees is way out of wack, like 11 degrees out. Bank 2 passes with flying colours. No fault codes in relation to Vanos, so the issue points to being mechanical. I initially swapped the solenoid packs from bank to bank thinking it may be a solenoid issue. No joy, time to open the engine up. This engine is very clean on the inside. It was apparently rebult 35k ago with : -New oil control rings (excessive oil consumption) -rod bearings -all new chains, tensioners and guides Bank 1 valve cover was removed this evening in preparation to check static cam timing, as per the DIS recommendation during the Bank 1 vanos test. Bank 2 cover and some other bits to be removed in order to do the work. This is the underside of the valve cover on bank 1. Usually these are gummed up badly with old oil so it means one less cleaning job to do.
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1 point^ This. Feel free to give me some money, ill find some nice seats, and stick labels on them saying they are made from purebred grain fed unicorns who freely roamed the prairies of venice. Id suggest figuring out a build plan for it first, and work out what ya going for. Its a bit of an odd ball car being LHD and not particularly high spec etc, spending silly money on it is just dumb, spending money on a non M3 E30 isnt exactly financially wise, spending money on a weird one is even less wise Either go period, and find some nice second hand M seats, get em reupholstered locally if it tickles your pickle, or find some period buckets. Another option would be going "ultimate bmw" and finding some late model BMW leather sports seats and getting custom rails made up for em etc. Why not turn it into a 333? Get an M30 and a proper gearbox, or find a later model 3.0 six and swap it over for a modern 333.
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1 pointSeats made in the Caribbean.. what. Just hunt down some stock motorsport seats. There has been quite a few sets up for sale this year on this forum alone. Make sure you are getting 4 door seats as they are different. If you are not willing to hunt locally and be a little patient for the parts you want you are going to burn money and build a Frankenstein's monster. Get to know the community and the BMW parts guys and you will find the bits you are after.
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1 pointBribe the service manager at your nearest BMW dealership Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointdrunk guy in town gave me $100 to drive him to the street where the prostitutes hang out, 3 minutes drive from where we were. perfect
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1 pointWill get you some prices tomorrow and flick you a text, have access to cheap Conti and Michelin tyres.
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1 pointAh you know you have now spoilt almost everything else now It'll be an addiction haha
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1 pointThanks for the offer. I'm in Napier so a bit out of the way. I'm already committed to this path and the car is going into the shop on Monday for the upgrade so a bit late to make changes now... One other change being made not mentioned so far is the MAF is being removed so MAP & TP will be used instead. This should help remove a little more restriction from the inlet. Will report back how it goes + any problems found along the way.
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1 point
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1 pointYup. I'm the same as all the rest. If things go as planned on Monday I'll own yet another E38 so as much as I like this and wish I could give it a home in my garage I'll have to pass but I cant see it sitting around for long.
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1 pointthe ABS/DSC units are also fairly common to fail on the E39 and E38, so wouldnt put it past it to be that too. I never did get an answer to my low offer, i suspect its a no.
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1 pointMAN, that is cool! I particularly like how the fan has a "volume" control If I wasn't married, I'd probably be making arrangements for a road trip
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1 pointi got scammed for over $900 for a laptop and trademe and popo did nothing about it...
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1 pointLol, what a winner! Maybe he was trying to remind you of your obligations as a seller under the Asshat Consumers Act of 1586, wherein it clearly states that a used cars engine failure, when bought privately on the secondhand market, is solely the responsibility of the private vendor to remedy or offer a complete no questions asked refund and supply a grovelling apology for the inconvenience? Send Brent a PM to confirm, i'd hate to put you on the wrong track bud
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1 pointThey never made a road going version of their previous GT3 car, which would have been a PERFECT platform for a road going version.
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1 point
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1 pointHellBM is a company run by Ray (forum sponser) in Silverdale. Worth a trip just to look at all the awesome cars/projects he has if nothing else! Brent runs a parts business called BMWorld - you'll see him a lot in the for sale section of this forum. There's a couple of facebook groups I only just found that people post parts etc in also - search groups for BMW NZ parts and ask for an invite. Don't forget there is a Want to buy section of this forum. Post what you're looking for there and more than likely Ray or Brent will contact you.
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1 pointI dunno, I really liked the 17" Alpina clones on my E30 I have a Mtech E30 wheel in decent condition in my closet if your interested 333, but it looks like you already have bought that "improved" one End of the day, its your car do whatever you want. Just a personal request - No M3 badges or altezza tail lights
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1 pointthey replied the other day saying the price will drop if it doesnt sell. dont know what to and didnt seem open to any negotiation in the mean time. Will keep an eye on it. I would pay 3K. I REALLY want to restore it.
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1 pointYou just need to trawl forums and auction sites for good deals. I paid $200 locally for the M-Tech 2 steering wheel I bought for my E34. A set of leather sports seats will set you back around $500-700 dollars, they pop up on Trademe every so often. To be honest if you're in Auckland go and see Ray at HELLBM, he's a sponsor on here and will most likely have a bunch of great E30 stuff to sell you. Sure he'll be happy to see you and your chequebook!
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1 pointI don't think anyone is trying to burst your bubble, rather they're trying to ensure you don't get ripped off. It sounds like you have a healthy budget to modify this car but if you do your research and follow some of (but not necessarily all) the advice you get on this and other forums then you'll get a lot more bang for your buck. A good example is the steering wheel you bought. As members have pointed out, that is a very common SE spec steering wheel that has been reshaped and recovered. If you paid close to $1500 for it then realise you could have bought one locally for less than $50 and had it recovered/customised at an upholsterer. Doing that would have saved you well over a grand to put towards other modifications. Remember, no matter how lofty your modification goals there's nothing you can do to an E30 that hasn't been done before. Research, research, research and learn from others' mistakes and triumphs. You'll save a lot of money in the long run. Good luck with your project.
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1 pointPlease contact Daniel at:[email protected] or 0274514367 Please use my name, Dimitrios, and say you are from the BMW club. He is a nice guy. He can do steering wheels, leather seats, etc.
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1 pointi have Bridgestone RE002s on my E34 too, which are no longer made an superceeded by RE003 Running 235/45R17 on the front and 255/40R17 on the back, the back doesnt kick out on the power with the V12 driving it. Even tracked on them this time last year.
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1 pointNot much input here... But I recently put Falken FK452's on the 540i and in my opinion significantly worse than the (worn) Bridgestone RE002's for grip...
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1 pointRegardless of the asking price if you are selling a car of that age, people want to see what sort of condition its in, and if you dont put up decent photos most will assume the worst and not bother to follow it up. A photo of an old photo of a car is pretty much a waste of time on a trade me auction. My 2 cents.
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1 pointAwesome. that's a healthy output. Good to pick up power in the mid range, after all that is your usable power, low to mid range is where you drive most of the time.
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointHey guys, looking for some advice as I'm really on the fence at the moment. I saw an 09 135i with 35,000kms two months ago at the Japanese auctions which sold for $31k. It needed a replacement DSC/ABS pump which may cost $4k in parts and labour to replace (correct me if I'm wrong), so total is $35.5k landed. I found the exact same car all fixed up and being sold by a Japanese dealer for $40.5K, plus transport and registration it should be almost $41k landed (this is his last price, have tried negotiating like my life depended on it >.>). Extra parts: - BMW Performance exhaust - BMW Performance suspension (shocks, springs and sway bars) - BMW Performance black kidney grills - BMW Performance short shifter - BMW Performance alcantara shifter and boot - BMW Performance alcantara handbrake - 19" Leon Hardiritt wheels (looks ugly imo but still better than the stock 261 rims - will prob have to change these for 18" so I can fit 235/40 (F) and 265/35 (R )) - Herman front lip Long story short, the price seems to be up there for a 1 series because I have seen similar mileage 335I selling for $37-38k here in NZ. I also won't be able to go FBO for at least a year because my budget when I started looking was $32k, went up to $35k and then to $37K *sigh*. So just need some opinions on whether or not I would be getting ripped off if I buy this car. Can't shake the feeling that the dealer is raping me with his price. More info on the car here: http://www.ap-now.co.jp/first_website/ap-now/cat2/post_80.html
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1 pointWell here is a few pics from a few months ago now, with the leather restoration. Give them a clean as you do, do your carpets etc whilst you are in there. Its not too bad to do holes as I was swapping seats I had a lot of sacrificial leather hanging around, with the filler and glue, it's a breeze, if you can do basic panel beating you can do this, pays to have some natural artistry to you too I guess. Its pretty bad, another way would be to totally replace these I guess, but I like old s%$t and oh well. Normal clean, then of course there is the cleaner in the kit So once you have cleaned it too death, fill in the bits you really think needs it, you could spend a lifetime at this stage and if you want it looking new, this would be the hard way, I still wanted an old patina of sorts. With the filler and laborious sanding it's very rewarding. The turps takes off the glean and really is the etching stage. You can use a more specialized primer at this stage but I think Turps...S%$t could be meths, cant remember is vastly cheaper. Now its starting to blend in with the old leather, I used a brush too at this stage as the leather was pretty brutal...hence the brutal approach. Rubbing between is good, you don't have to be too fussy at this stage, not if you are spraying later, but you don't want large brush marks either. So in general you concentrate on the worst of the leather, no point layering in areas that are still good. Mind it's relative, these were pretty bad, so lots of elbow grease on these. The back seats of our cars will be a breeze. I wont even use filler, no need for glue and might go straight to spray for example. This is looking good now but keep in mind there could be 5-6 coats in some of the more worn areas. This is pretty much it. You don't need the last clear coat, but I wanted the better wear value included. Obviously you need loads of sandpaper of various grades just use your head. Pliers for all of those pesky bullnose clips in my case. You need plenty of rags, you need to buy your own Meths, yeah meths. You can make a fair mess with just two front seats and you need room to lay everything out methodically (theory of course, my garage was an abomination). So I bought a 3x4m Marque cheap s^%t one off trademe. Got a reel of number 8 and cut it in 12 inch lots to tie various pieces to the under carriage of the Marque. The instructions are comprehensive. But in general, use a very low pressure, high volume? Cant remember, but I just go by instinct. If you can paint, you can paint. Be patient, drying times a relatively quick too. This was an enjoyable mini project within the bigger project. Much more enjoyable than finding vacuum leaks that's for sure... I don't have pics in the car or fully assembled as I had to do that part real quick. But its been 8 months in the car, there has been some stickiness between the leather initially but then they settle. I think they look great, and so I have myself a full seat of front seats in black leather, not dark blue, that are fully manual and s*&t loads lighter than the originals. Im happy. Enjoy