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I recommend 4 cylinders on one bank and 4 cylinders on the other bank. My type of 4pot

I think this dude hasn't posted in the forum since this thread in 2013, so pretty likely that it's sold and/or he's not around anymore. Now run and hide before a Mod tells you off for posting on old threads.

Finally was able to bring the car back to the shop and speak with the owner to show him the car. He was pretty pissed off to see some of the work done, while a reserved older guy he was not impressed at all. As it turns out part of the repair was done by someone they have since sacked! Argh. The following will be done to sort the main issues: > I've supplied them a replacement guard so he has agreed to repaint it. > The random holes in the bumper to the side of the no. plate will be painted to hide them > The RHS pin stripe will be redone to the correct height > The front fender pin strip on both sides will be finished between the headlights and wheel. > The hole in the door panel inside skin will be tided up and painted to stop it rusting.

Fedex you rat f@cking bastards.... I guess aliens abducted my missing door gaskets huh?

Another night behind the polisher, couple more to go, should be good for some updated pics this weekend

Temporary speed sensor / joke.

Mmm 7.2 mpg. Nice.

Sounds like the best possible outcome for what is basically a nightmare of a situation. Well done and good work getting it sorted. No one in their right mind would see this kind of work and think its okay.

^^^ This! Have run various different grades in multiple engines, FI and NA over the years. Suffice to say quality shows. After pulling the M50 out of my car and taking the top covers and sump off, and observing the sludgy crap in the sump as opposed to the grey surfaces of the head, running full synthetic with 5000km oil & filter changes proves its worth. If you must run a cleaner through have the work done by a shop that offers a warranty on their labour. Chances are you'll end a wave of particulates through the Vanos screens, the fine oil squirters that jet onto the timing chain and cylinder bores etc etc etc and all hell will break loose.

$3.17 plus GST

Managed to set the timing for bank 1 exhaust cam after work last night. To be able to do so, as mentioned I needed the vanos on this cam to be in initial position. To achieve this I loosened the hub bolts to be able to relieve spring tension between the vanos hub and cam gear and wiggle the piston forward to it's initial position. I then followed the normal procedure to time up the cam. To get the cam to line up once you crank the engine over a few times to check it's position you need to adjust the cam slightly out of the timing window to compensate for slack in the chains. Then when you crank the engine over a few times and check it falls in the window like this : So with the timing issue out of the way, I now need to remove the vanos unit on the other bank of cams to replace a leaking o-ring.

How about now? it's a new day

Thinking of selling my NZ New 2000, 3.2 manual Z3M Coupe to fund another Car, VGC, 56,000 km's, FSH with Black & Blue full leather interior, expressions of interest sought. $42,000 https://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=hMy808

I bought it from a guy in tauranga. Ill recalibrate my wideband before I give you figures, just to be sure im giving you an accurate reading. But from what ive seen so far its pretty reasonable. Ill put up a break down of WOT, cruise, load. The fail 110kw was done on the factory chip, although I believe it was other factors that I had overlooked while performing the swap the reason why it was sh*t. Doing tests to see if the ecu was powering the o2 sensor (open loop?) Showed me that ever since doing the swap it was in closed loop (I may have them the wrong way around). I had missed connecting the temperature sender for the ecu. Which I think would send the ecu into a sort of "limp mode". Well thats my theory anyway. Factory cams at the moment, id like to get some sort of piggy back before I get cams. A lot of learning to do.

BUMP price drop

On Road Costs: Included Kilometres: 157,000km Body: Green, 5 door, Station Wagon Fuel type: Petrol Engine: 6 cylinder, 2793cc Transmission: Automatic Import history: NZ New Looks like he's just changed some of the details from the listing he used to have of an E36 wagon Beats paying for another listing fee

You should start a refuge for neglected 7s. That way I can say that my e38 went to a wonderful home full of frolicking e38s where it will enjoy a pampered retirement.

The fact that the seller is putting a $1200 premium on it for some aftermarket mags doesn't bode well. No picture of the cert plate (I'd want proof before going to look), and be aware that the cert plate is only current if the car has the same wheels on it as when it was inspected. So if it currently has 16x7s and the cert says 17x8 you shouldn't be able to get a warrant and will be stickered by the cops if they pull you over. It looks to me like the car has been converted from auto to manual so I'd also want to know what ratio diff is in it, and more importantly is it mentioned on the cert - if no, fail! Get some useful information from the seller and it might be ok. Or just buy Brents - more torque from the 2.8 and better goodies on it too. just my 2c

I need a new daily!

"2 b red" on mana esplanade, looked much better than my e34

SOLD

Talk to Tom, Andrew. If there's something he doesn't know about these cars it isn't worth knowing.

The more I see of the M-sport optioned E60s the more I get the 'I wants'! Just such a pity there are so few diesel M wagons in NZ Anyways, apologies for the thread jacking

On the weekend I'll make a new thread in other European cars

Owned one for 4 years and use it daily. Clocked up 60,000 kms and the cars done 107,000 kms Went against internet and bimmersport M3 E46 buyers advice guide and brought a 2002 (April) with SMG. Wanted an M3 with less than 50,000 kms . Drove a few and this one was nice and tight and seemed have a bit more go for some reason. Car has most options except headlight washers, electric seat bolsters and 19 inch wheels (prefer tyre choice options in 18s) Issues Rear view mirror dimming failed shortly after purchase (replaced mirror glass ($130 usd) Power Steering hose developed leak. ($500 ish , gold plated part ? ) CD stacker played up after track day. (DYI repair, lub required $15 ) Maintenance Usual services (intervals 24,000 km) Front rotors and pads @ 77,000 km ($1800) Rear rotors and pads @ 92,000 km ($1000 ish) Tyres 53,000 km Bridgestone Re11's ($2,200) Tyres 106,000 km Michelin PSS ($2,200) AMG Battery @ 95,000 km ($500) Mods Run 235/40/18 & 265/35/18 on factory rim rather than 225/45/18 255/40/18 standard size (don't see DSC warning light flash as much) Stereo project $NDA encase wife sees this (BM53 tuner mods for sound quality , kilowatt of headroom, carpc integration) Mk4 Nav with 2014 map , Bluetooth ULF SMG re-flash with Z4mcoupe software (smoother auto changes) Thinking of CSL load next with DME mods ISOfix top tether brackets Dyno ( car is supposedly standard, 56,000km 307 rwbhp , 90,000km 302 rwbhp on dynopack dynos) which is 20 - 30 above what it should be. Good bits Car corners like on rails SMG grin factor Shift lights on tacho with sMg with upper shift programs Xenon headlights , high beam is fantastic Nav options with rev camera (don't back over kids toys) Grip in wet and ability to put power down (see tyres) Cross wind has little effect on car Stable at speed and under hard braking (Taupo track) Induction sound / exhaust rasp Bad bits Hitting cats eyes / highway joint sections Ride on rough roads Stop start traffic uphill with SMG SMG in reverse gear (fine line between moving slightly and moving lots ) Handbrake goes off every couple of years Rubberised trim easy to mark and scuff No Aux in on factory radios / nav until late 2002 Factory hifi option is very average, HK system slightly better. What I'd change / add if money was no object Supercharger ECS 530hp option BBS e88's on 18's 245 / 275 combo P Plate

Going from a e46 330i to a e87 or e90 with a N46 motor is a backwards step in my opinion. The N42/N43/N45/N46 series motors were terrible. I'm having to rebuild the head on my N46 after only 130k - many fail much sooner than that. In contrast the six cylinder engines are beautiful.

Hi guys, just completed a manual conversion (getrag rather than ZF) on my import 1995/96 328i too. I've also got the rev hang issue and looking to try a trick I found last night. Apparently it's mostly caused by the ICV, and you can reduce the effect of it by shoving an 11mm 1/4 drive socket into the ICV to intake boot pipe. I'm going to give it a crack and will report back if it helps! I've also still got the check engine light after my conversion. Is the TCU a separate box or a chip in the main ECU case? If the latter is it as easy as cracking open the case and removing the right chip? sounds too easy!

im pretty sure this is #5 on Dave/Kulgans road to seven 7's list.

I guarantee you will spend an extra $100 buying a 4 pot to every $10 you might save buy not buying a 6 pot BTW... buy a big drip tray for your garage and a Honda Civic to get to work on a regular basis

Pretty sure it was at the top of the list when I opened the sub forum. Still though..lol Rookie error.

Decided on Friday night that my little 2002 wasn't going to start restoring itself, so spent Yesterday today tearing it down, mainly to investigate the rust situation and see if my gamble has paid off. Several surface spots which are nothing Some reasonably set in rust in the bottom of the fresh air box in the firewall and drivers side floor pan is totally rotted out, including in the chassis rail for want of a better word, I am confident sorting out the rust in the firewall and have done floor pans before in my Suzuki SJ410 i had many many years ago, However I will have to get a professional opinion on the chassis rail as there is very little integrity left in it. Have also decided I need to build a carport off the side of the house or find an alternative residence for my E30 while i am doing this sanding and whatnot, dust just goes everywhere, and you need quite a bit of extra space for panels and seats etc when they are not in/on the car!

Got touring2.0 complete and running and driving after manual conversion. Shifter is nice after replacing all the bushes, drives really nice too but isn't quite running right. Has been sitting for probably two years before it moved today. Struggled to start initially but after some fresh fuel she came right. Ran like poos first time out, noisey lifters, but they quitened up after a few mins. Still ran sh*t tho, missing, smelling like fuel. Checked plugs and, Uhhh, not pretty. After a very good clean up and re gap she ran a lot better but is still hesitant low down and bogging under load. Unsure if conversion related or not as still have auto ecu plugged in and trans fault light on the dash. But from what I've read that's how a lot of guys do it and just take the dash light lamp out. Will do some research and probably get it plugged in for an assessment next week