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Maybe I’m off the money but $3,500+ seems a lot for car without WoF, Rego, $400 behind on RUC and with known mechanical issue, and possibly more issues from the over-heat. Not saying this to put others off and try to snag it cheap for myself either. Would have needed to be below the reserve price for me to be interested. Perhaps I should re-think the value of mine if/when it gets a WoF..

Picked up my newest old toy today, 1998 e39 530d touring, ex Ireland import, 197k Miles, no wof, no reg, started a list of what needs doing to turn it into a road legal, reliable tow mule, 1) EVERYTHING!! will start with a thorough cleaning inside and out and go from there....

https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-cars-bakkies/sandton/2003-bmw-m3-coupe-csl-grey-with-85000km-available-now/1006689877790911152620309

At first I was quite interested, but there's probably a good $3,500 - $4,000 + (if paying retail) to get this thing repaired and WOF'd. At minimum the car requires a water pump, diff mounts, front rotors and pads, and rear pads. That's assuming the engine is all a-okay from the water pump failing. Plus circa $400 of RUC's, rego etc...and then the cosmetic work. Having purchased my Touring at 200km, there was a fair list of items I had to address to bring the car back up to the standard it deserved.

Date: 23 Sep 2020 Distance: 261931kms 1. Brake Fluid Full flush and bleed with DOT4 (from Auto38 excellent product and value), with thanks to @Autoglym. Replaced fluid in the front last year with Front Brake overhaul, and Rear this year, with rear brake overhaul. It was time for a precautionary full-flush. Job done. If I win lotto, I'm getting a garage with a hoist! 2. Strut Brace I'd sourced this on-sale from Garagistic a couple of months ago. Buying on sale and bare (untreated steel) it cost under USD60 delivered to my freight forwarder in USA. Didn't cost much to get it here either. Having studied the box for a week or two, I noted it wasn't self-installing. Action was required. I dressed it first, arissing the edges with a file, using scotchbrite, wax and grease remover, and rags to remove surface rust. I then etch primed it, followed with a couple of thin coats of primer/surfacer. A couple of days later I sanded it back with 600 grit, and shot two coats of Lachssilber (scanned and mixed to match the exterior by Union Hardware), over it. Then 20 minutes later added a coat of fairly average clearcoat. Then I let it dry for a couple of hours, and attempted to fit it to the car, following the logic that it was less likely to get damaged if it was on the car, drying. This was wrong on a number of levels, not least of which was that it didn't fit! I tried jacking one side, which didn't help. So a little damage was sustained. I put the bar in the boot, reasoning that it was less likely to get damaged in there, and the paint might relax as it dries, making it an easier fit. (not really). When I opened the boot yesterday, it was interesting how much the paint had 'gassed out', between Saturday arvo and Tuesday morning. Today - having read the FAQs on the Garagistic site - we tried to fit it with the wheels off the ground... and nothing had changed. A little pursuasion with a rat-tail file, and precision TNE**, and we were there. Torqueing down the fasteners, watching the top plates forming to the strut towers, and waiting for the 'click' of the wrench. M40 love, on Saturday. Painted and ready Admitted to The Bar, today. It hasn't turned beans into peas, though it has tied the front end together, and improved the steering. (I put a brace onto my old Maxima, wow what a transformation! this is less extreme). Less effort off of centre, and mid-corner the camber is consistent. I don't think it was very floppy before, though it certainly is 'tighter'. Result! ** official acronym of "Trial aNd Error" - with thanks to Mr Crosby, my tech drawing teacher ? PS: Note in the bottom image, the clutch reservoir proximity to the bar. In the US of eh, they run their clutch master from the Brake Reservoir. Our right hand drive reservoirs foul the Garagistic bar, in standard position. I loosened the hose clamp and rotated it, and loosened the 10mm securing bolt for the reservoir, and rotated it on the mounting plate, to create space.

I found this on the MS43. I think really the only way is to do some data logging or dyno testing to see what effect the iat has on fuelling, timing, engine power.

Been flat out finishing off the cage, painting and getting ready for the Rankleburn Rally on the 10th October. I'm now just bolting it all back together, really happy with how its all turning out. Pretty stoked with the paint on the cage/interior & engine bay turned our for my first crack at painting a car. Took the day off yesterday to get the engine/gearbox in, drivers side is all buttoned up now minus the final install of the dash.Waiting on my LSD to come back, front struts and a bit of reinforcement welding on the trailing arms. Have entered the rally so need to keep smashing this out. Cheers,

The new Alfa... take note BMW, new cars do not have to look like pokemon robots that just got slapped in the face with a waffle iron.

Got a quote from Classic Cover over email for less than half what I am currently paying. Will certainly pursue but will be sure to read the fine print. I'll occasionally drive the Maserati and park it on the street for work, and it goes to the shops and the like, but the majority of the time it will be in the garage at home.

Since daar is Bokke hierrrr... Chucked some biltong in the other day brrus...made my own machine...fully acrylic..

Well to anyone that thought TL;DR for this, Dave found comfort in a paragraph he found on the internet. He also accepts himself.

Looks great. I did my brake bleed today too and found my strut brace makes it quite fiddly to get the brake fluid reservoir cap off ?

Definitely the old type, possibly the original part from1998, black, crunchy, foul smelling mess! 2ill upgrade to the new design part. Still has the egr and I can't see but I'm guessing the swirl flaps as well.

Lekker bru, the modern day gusheshe.

So simple but so good... https://www.stuff.co.nz/motoring/122859372/chevrolet-reinvents-the-tailgate

M52, M54, M56, straight from BMW: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e36-320i-cou/wiring-functional-info/power-train/engine-controlms42/air-supply/intake-air-temperature/Y1duGiq You guys are just making stuff up.

Insurance is good until you put a claim form in!

I am aware they can die, but it is doing everything it should at the moment so I will give it a service and hope for the best!

Thats what I am assuming, it has had a lot of oil changes but not much else in terms of maintenance. It will also be interesting to count the swirl flaps.....

Fixed that for you ?

I'd like to donate to the cause, I've got a set of facelift corner tail lights I'll give to you next coffee meeting @aja540i

Sssshhh! Keep it on the down low.

Hello Everyone This is my 1st time here, and i have always love BMW's. My 1st was a 1988 730i, which i had to sell due to money issues... but so far the best car i have ever owned. However... I will be picking up a new car on monday! A 2015 435i M Sport ?? in (midnight blue?) with Cream leather interior. im so excited I'm gonna explode ? I'm glad to be here and will post more pics when i pick her up!

I do this drive several times a year and there is nothing you can say to convince me to drive SH1 through Taihape, Waiouru, Turangi, Taupo, etc. It's just truck after truck, campervan after campervan. Get away from it all and do SH1 to Bulls, SH3 to Whanganui, SH4 through National Park to Te Kuiti, SH3 to Otorohanga, SH39 to Ngaruawahia and then rejoin SH1 at Taupiri. I've even done SH23 outside Hamilton and the back roads to Pukekoke which are a brilliant drive but you may not want to do that in a wagon. It's only minutes difference to SH1 all the way and I can only recall once being stuck behind any kind of traffic in the last dozen trips.

Oh man... Supercats. Had them on my Evo 4 RS, probably one of the worst tyres I've ever had but lots of fun sliding around roundabouts in the wet. In terms of my go to Tyre now, Michelin PS4. Pricey but worth every cent.

Another wang option, going cheap on faceballs, which is surprising as its quite tasteful.

Yeah its my 1st upgrade planned ?? Where is the best place to get them?? Cant find a NZ supplier Thanks for the tips ?

Those seats! so good.

If going through the Desert Rd make your lunch stop Cafe Express in Waiouru. Probably the best pizza I've ever had, and every soldier tends to go back every time they end up spending any time in Waiberia for training.

I think it is my bias towards the East Coast. East>West. I very rarely enjoy driving any of the routes we have suggested to be honest. Maybe 2-3 in 10 drives you will get minimal traffic, no road works, good weather and the Pie cabinet at the gas station will have the pie you want. At least they have good fuel all the way through now. Remember the days when you could only get 98 octane in Auckland, Taupo and then stretch it out to Upper Hutt.

Pretty much ready to go, new cores, comp housings, 14 T billet wheel, 9 blade turbine, new wastegate flapper valves, actuators. Am told spool times with this setup is on par with ball bearing units, should be good. Got silicone inlets, outlet mod to OEM squashed tube section, downpipes. Like the sound of a catted exhaust, mellow and deep, have a couple of narrow 200 cell metal core units, will try and fit directly to down pipe exit flanges behind trans tail shaft.

Another anniversary. 10 years today. The last two years have been the hardest two years in my life and I'm still a non smoker. I'd hate to be addicted with the cost of those products these days. How many other achievers are there out there ?

Stocking up for Christmas gifts .....the cam, port and tune..???

If this performs as good as it looks, will be rapt!!

I think you’ll find there’s a difference with the iat disconnected, certainly on a dyno measuring afr’s. This is absolutely the case with the ms52 dme programming and suspect also true for ms43 dme’s too.