Allanw

My M54 expansion tank didn't explode until 160 kms The radiator will be the next to go Everything else is done. Ours has High OBC and tells you when the coolant has escaped anyway... and my Mrs stops and phones me EVERY time it "BONGS" at her

Our one seriously has an uneven lack of compresson when it does it - Someone said it had to be the lifters? My Subaru wouldn't stop until the end of my road, and it had NO compression when I cranked! I thought it had broken a cambelt again (that car broke 3!) Anyway - EVERYbody needs to run the engine longer!

savebarn used to have hand cranked gear pumps pretty cheap.

Yeah - pretty much. (I'm makiing some assumptons here, like the starter is actually engaging with the engine and turning it etc) It's not really good for the starter or battery, but foot flat down, crank it for 20 seconds or so at a time then give it a little rest. once it starts to run a bit, you let off the throttle, but may have to use the throttle to keep it running. If it doesn't start running, but you can hear the compression coming back (the RRRrrrRRRRrrrRRRRrrr-like nrmal noise, then try crankiing with your foot off the gas and see if it runs) If it runs, but rough: after about 30 to 60 seconds at about 1500 rpm, shut it off completely, then immediatly restart, if it's smooth, take it for a gentle run up to temp before parking it. Then never do it again My understadning is that the short run, on cold/thick oil, creates really high oil pressure in the system, then shutting it off means that oil pushes into the lifters and they pump up, stoppng the valves closing properly??? Hotwire on here said he see's it fairly often on AA call outs. Basically any time you start the car, you want it to runs for a couple of minutes at least, or wash it after it's been driven, then put it away before it cools all the way down.

Was the engine cold, you started it for about 20 seconds or so, to back up etc, then turned it off and left it sitting??? If yes: It may have pumped the lifters up and is holding valves open - I can make our E39 M54 do it. I push it out of the garage to wash it. If I wash it, then start it, drive in and switch off - gauranteed no start, and it sounds like no compression (whiiiiirs, but no firing). Extended cranking and it slowly starts to get compression and fires. If you run it longer, it doesn't happen. In ours, once it's done it, you hold the throttle wide open, and crank it for quite a while and it will start up rough then get better. Foot gas on the throttle means it shouldn't inject much fuel. I've had a couple of cars that do it... although ones used to wait until the end of my road, and would stall, with no compression and I'd have to sit there cranking for about a minute! (company car!)

Is it cranking slower than normal? Did you have the radio on while washing? You sure the battery isn't flat It doesn't take much for it to result in a non-start.

I dunno if you can swap them. If you got the matching springs and shocks, should be fine... but there weren't many "aftermarket" options for mine, and I sure didn't want the steel body Munroes that apparently are available. Mine has the S704, I got alloy Sachs ones, from Milland. The originals were 100% shagged at 115kms, and I suspect they had been for a long time. This pic is AFTER I fitted new shocks, and fitted 10mm spacers to the top hats, front and rear to lift it up. My rough calcs/guess say the 10mm spacer should give somewhere near 20mm of extra lift (since the height is added close to half way between the inner pivot point and the arc of the wheel travel). I didn't measure though: Partly machined spacer: Before I fitted the spacer and shocks, it was pretty low, and the shocks were so poked, it took about 300kms to wear 10mm off the factory mudflaps I fitted! I've never heard a definite dfference between the 2, but mine is a non-motorsport car, with the suspension S704 optioned (luckily for me, they sprung for heaps of goodies, then couldn't afford an autobox )

Bad landing??? Sorry

I think the REALLY nice ones are desired by certain people, and some of them will pay good money. 18 months ago, I got $8K for Dads 4 door Manual 325i SE, from the second caller (the first was a time wasting knob). I think I could have held out for more, but the purchaser was "suitable" to Dad (another old bloke), and Dad already had a replacement car. A few months earlier, another manual 325i SE (with an ///M badge!) sold for just over $10K. This car isn't a patch on Dads, and his wasn't immaculate but very, very tidy. This guy is talking about "rough around the edges" cars... his is one. The wheels, exhaust, dash and seat are real let downs, and appears to be a non- AC model, based on the front valance. As far as E30's go, it really looks to be a good one, but it's not up there with the best survivors. I'm not sure that coupes are worth particularly more either??? unless motorsport. Graeme is probably right - $6K and everybody would be talking about how easy it is to change the wheels and make a good car of it.

Hahaha! Or nipping past a 911 when he finally moves over, so you can get past before the passing lane finishes without clipping his front bumper... with your trailer. I can confirm its a workhorse. I don't even KNOW how much of MY crap has been hauled in that thing! Most of it will never be able to go that fast again though! I even saw a table saw in there not too long ago.

You say that... but *I* heard that an E61 M5 Touring owner/forum member has been test drving LEAFs... but I won't say who

After watching those... your Mr Muppet would have a hard time driving a Land Rover Defender off road! Where is the :facepalm: emoji?

I thought you'd be happy! Looks a bit like a prius with a BMW front stuck on it.

Did you get a price from Milland? I got one for our E39 (diamond key) a few years back... and it was about $320 from memory??? - It was all coded, ready to go, direct from Germany. All I had to do was sync the remote (1 minute job, no tools required)

But if it's another crappily converted one, it'll end up being a drama at some stage, though.

Especially when they're asking double

Did you have any trouble with seagulls??? Good work though ;-)

supposedly 200kms... The tamper light shows if the LCM and Cluster VINs don't match. IF the LCM and the Cluster are more than 200KMs apart when you reinstall the cluster, you get a fault. once it's updated, you can clear the code. I wouldn't push to close to 200 kms either - I think the milage is updated generally every 100 kms between modules, so if you're at the 99km stage, then you only have 101 until the next update, that may put them over 200kms different. BMW Scanner 1.4 can be used to push the cluster milage UP (only) to match the LCM mileage. Just park it at the panel shop, pull the cluster then, unplug the ABS too - no milages recorded at all :-) Just be aware of no ABS, Traction, Stabilty etc! Have you got software to clear the codes after???

OK... this is the RANT thread though, so lets get back to being dicks about everything again...

FYI... We all know we're generalising - some of them are very good too... but they aren't as fun to talk about ;-)

I only buy online from supercheap. I met a local staff member one time, and decided online was the best option. The other shops aren't any better though. A Repco staff member told me my E39 would need thicker oil, if it's done over 100K. ...Then proceeded to tell me that 10W-40 was thicker, and would be better than 0W-40 for a "worn" engine. P.S. If anyone replies telling me that 10W-40 is thicker than 0W-40, I'll shoot you, then tell you why you're wrong. It's only thicker cold... when you DON'T want it to be thicker.

Very true! In our Touran, I "adjusted" the electric steering via software, and it's MUCH better (I set it to the lowest assist level!)- I'd honestly say it's not toooooo far off the E39 for feel... not quite as tight, but it hasn't had the same work that the E39 has either, plus it's a much simpler setup. Initially, you could feel nothing - it was like the wheels weren't on the road!

And don't hit aluminium arms with the hammer ;-)

"Someone" has taken the driveshaft and stolen the Fuel tank. Battery sorted though - "Mates Rates" for a DIN75 $145 inc :-)

http://www.bidbud.co.nz to the rescue AGAIN - you can set it to hourly ;-) You can also save the same search at different times of the day, to have it sent around the same time.