Allanw

My Touran is with Club Auto. It's my daily, but I've never had to claim so far. They were the cheapest I found, that actually had suitable cover. My (or any) standard insurer wouldn't touch mine either - A Golf R32 = OK, a Touran = OK ...but both frankensteined into one = NO WAY!

That's pretty standard for an M54. The crap solidifies on the coldest part of the rocker cover. The cream is just from condensation. Your valve cover will have a crack somewhere. Also standard for M54's Buy a new one. It's not the cleanest of engines inside, but you'll notice the crusty stuff is limited to the cold areas, and the cams etc aren't too bad for the mileage. The change intervals or oil quality is possibly lacking a little. DON"T rely on the service indicator for oil changes either - ours used to go out to about 22K, but I shortened it up to about 15K, which is fine with the volume of oil in there and getting up t temp properly. If you do short trips all the time, reduce the mileage a bit. You possibly do quite a few short trips and/or your thermostat is a bit dodgy - taking too long to warm up. Don't trust the gauge, use the OBC secret menu - the gauge is a waste of time for telling engine temps - straight up covers from about 75C upwards, which is still very cold for an M54. See here:

In the very late 90's, I used to see one not far from Ponsonby, just about every time I went that way (Heading towards the Zoo). I assumed it was either someones daily, or that's where it broke down, and he pushed it to a new spot every now and then, so it didn't get towed ?

Idle control valve is common issue. Clean it with CRC or similar, and if that doesn't work, borrow a good one to try. It will be stinky alright - especially cold - if it doesn't have a catalytic converter... Dads E30 was a 1990 NZ new version and there was zero emissions stuff on it - not even a charcoal cannister.

A friend just got a new hatch version a while ago, after selling her VW Golf R32. She totally loves it and thrashes the arse off it all the time (Although in "sport" mode, it's done some scary handling moves on her!). I haven't driven it yet, but they seem to have done a pretty good job on them... though they still don't feel "european".

I suspect BMW doesn't do just the O rings - they probably sell the unit. AND they probably use the same WRONG seals they used the first time around ?

Their "0" key appears broken....

Dads E30 was an april 1990 built NZ 325i SE - it had no charcola cannister... just a hose ? No cats either - standard NZ issue at the time.

FWIW, our two same model VWs have different brake pads specified for USA/Japan compared to the rest of the world - different PR codes and different pad part numbers. Hers is jap import, mine NZ new (ROW). I used the rest of world pads in her car, and the braking is far more positive - I suspect the major differences are the dust level and the poor "bite" of the original Jap spec ones that were in my wifes car are a consequence of that. The pads are physically the same size and fitment, but clearly different compounds. I didn't replace or machine her discs, but the brakes are a totally different feel - it used to be hard to stop when in reverse on a cold start with the reduced vacuum assist. Now it's fine, far less pedal effort.... ... and more dust

Have you REMOVED the bolt from the uni clamp?

I know exactly where that is parked

Check Micks Garage.

Yarp. Did you actually notice? It's hardly a standout ?

Were you smiley yesterday because of the car?????... you were behind me, pulling out from the Hospital Very shiny

You got your moneys worth out of that pulley!!! ?

Bonnets are the same... the grilles are different and interchangable I thought you were an E39 "anorak" (or "rivet-counter")

It's about 1/44527778th the circumference of Earth? That should clear it up immensely.

Lets all chip in a few bucks and buy it, so we can burn it with fire.

fixed that for you.

WHAT? WHY? Just leave the furniture.

They are supposed to have a "LIFETIME WARRANTY"... and I just ordered a boatload of them for my Touran... The ones I already have in there still seem tight, and E39 ones still felt OK... I think! Hit them up and see what they do!!!

If it's not urgent, order one from xcar360.com

Facelift Xenons are acceptable. Facelift Halogens were about as good as my '72 Beetle was! Never had any prefacelift to compare though.

@DnR it was on an E39. They may or may not be the same??? No drawings, Sorry! I used a new strut mount as a template, knocked out the studs and fitted bolts through from the bottom. The plate I made was 10mm aluminium, threaded for the bolts, so that locked it all together, then the nuts were fitted as normal to bolt it into the car. I fitted a strut brace too, purely because the E39's give the strut towers a hammering and like to mushroom them: For the rears, I believe I ordered the "rough road" version top mounts, and just fitted a spacer onto the longer studs on them... The rear spacers are made of that plastic sheet stuff. In my Touran, I got polyurethane spacers from ebay. all hardware included. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tema4x4 It had dropped 10mm after my VR6 + 4WD drivetrain conversion, and I wanted it a bit higher, so put claimed 20mm spacers in (they are less than 20mm thick to acheive the 20mm raise). The 4WD rear subframe already had to be spaced down 20mm, because of the the floor shape for the 6th and 7th seats, so it worked well with the geometry anyway. It's worked out about 10mm higher than my wifes standard one, as expected: