hybrid

A photoshoot I did with Aprils, Jamez, mine. Sad to see

take a wild stab

try that .. not sure why you cant edit your own profile ... It will be some hangover from the upgrade by the looks.

You need to read the real time data from the ABS module to see the wheel speed data. This will quickly tell you if the module is receiving signal. Work from there. Next is valid CAN signal from the DME to the ABS

Naffed voltage regulators ? Polley should be able to sort it easy enough.

We replaced one a while back in an s54b32 and it was another one of those crap DIY aftermarket tuner designs. It actually relates back to the a bad volumetric design of the tube thats used. Its really sensitive. If its wrong and the sensor provides the wrong reading back to the DME vs whats actually happening, it runs like a bag of dicks. The next best thing next to the stock MAF is the CSL design with MAP sensor. You need a MSS54HP (2003+) ECU which can then be modded to handle the stock CSL MAP sensor and air flap. Then it can be coded with CSL software and the installation of a carbon airbox can be done. I would probably then also tweak the maps to suit your exhaust setup (assuming you have euro headers and not US ones). Alpha-N is different to the CSL software as it doesnt use the MAP sensor but the throttle position sensor and a lookup table in the DME to calculate airflow and therefor how much fuel should be delivered. This is great for WOT throttle, but not very accurate for mid throttle or roll on throttle. In the real world there isnt too much difference but precision and fuel efficiency is lost.

A simple load test will give you all the answers about the battery's health.

goal?

Brendon and I were testing out WOT with a a small incline when it first happened (pipe popped off). We pulled over, re-connected the pipe and reset faults and reset data logging. Alas the pipe popped off again on map one. Got it back to the workshop and checked the retaining spring clip which is just made of mild steel that has been anealed, bent it to put some strength back into the clip clamp pressure and re-installed. Went for another hoon, this time hit full boost with no worries then tried again. Heard the big pop, this time it broken the plastic collar around the pipe. Basically the charge pipe design isn't meant for anything over stock boost. The design has no tolerance for extra pressure and I suspect the collar was circuming to expansion of the main pipe, hence the breakages being reported. I suspect a lot of it is to so with the weak retaining clip as well. Haven't had a chance to drive and log on the new charge pipe yet, but will do shortly.

I really dont understand get these comments in trademe ads either .. I drove my modded 330 around back in the day and honestly never got this sort of attention (nor wanted it). I would suspect it will be like one of those fellas who drives around with their sounds turned up real loud in full lynx hair product and spray catalog with the latest downloaded 'EDM' .. everyones staring buddy ... yup its all for you.

Done

All good, PM me will grab some details off ya.

Nice work dude! ... car looks tits, and looks like a real hoot to drive with the new donk.

Ha i've been working on mine as well for stock BMW ECUs that support the BMW D2 and 3 protocols, Autronic SM4, Pectel SQ6 etc. Its been in testing for sometime now. The software and electronic bits are the easy part, Where the challenges lay are having it all stay together in a high vibration environment (a car) . Its a challenge to say the least. Mine is integrated as part of the steering wheel which brings its own challenges. Works tits though.

yes.

They are out there and worth paying another few thousand for as its easier to replace a few things than a whole bunch.

Instead of fabricating your own solution, have you though about grabbing a hinge system and locking machism from something like a ford or holden ute ? Just steal it all and patch it in. Done

yerp am around tomorrow changing nappies and doing a spot of gardening.

Its an e30, you dont have a choice .. it makes it its business to turn it into one.

Found one locally. Thanks all

the s50 really should be run on 10w60 ... you end up with the dreaded tractor sound otherwise on snap throttle. Also most sounds like a much stronger pinking sound. I need to change my oil so keen to hear of Castrol edge 10w60sn deals too. I havent seen it on any 50% off sale for a few years now. Lots of edge 10w40 50% off sales but none of the good stuff

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/17440-e36-m3-turbo-part-2/

To do an oil change properly with a vehicle with a remote oil cooler, you disconnect the oil lines and hang them below the oil cooler. Gravity will allow most of it to come out .. the rest you use compressed air gently in one pipe and jar to capture the spray out the other. After this you need to prime the oil lines with oil again to remove any airlock. I personally disconnect my ignition and run the starter motor to help flow oil and create the full loop prime through out all of the channels. Going above this you can buy cheap oil first .. do all this to flush the old stuff out for a small drive and repeat the whole thing with your good oil. This is if your really after that nice goldern oil through out the car.

oils quite black for a service... did they drain the oil cooler properly of old oil and re-prime before putting the new stuff in?

Yeah, thought Id try locally first if one of the racecar guys is swapping to stand-alone engine management instead or something.