hybrid

its is an auto but there is no slush about it.. especially with steering wheel controls and an Alpina EGS flash.

enjoy

Looks awesome man ... was quite a good hoon the other day ... its not sh*t thats for sure.

Nice work ... love the colour and look of your car.. and even more so your keeping it all serviced and mint.

From an engineering perspective no, because that is part of the chassis rail and not simply sheet metal, you can see the part that sways underneath the damaged stone protection. If you damage your chassis rail, you'll have bigger problems that a warrant. Sorry to sound a downer, but as per your photo that is what you're dealing with.

he broke the first rule of e30 club, never ever park under trees.

Sweet, its a good car that one.. enjoy.

you need to keep the ews for starter control. no EWS, no starter signal to the start motor unless you build your own. Electrically you need the EWS. The DME + Key sync part can be bypassed with the right fettling in the calibration section of the DME.

a cheeky hint never hurts .. Would be stoked if someone has (is) setting some competition to plates, especially in the euro plate sector.

About 5 years a go we (bimmersport (Graham and Ollie) wrote to the government and looked at becoming a legal plates reseller. The government replied back and were open to the idea and put out a tender. The cost of setup of systems and integration into the backend systems as well as secure data soverinvty was the issue. It was going to cost a lot of money we didnt have to setup. Also the payback on profit from selling plate for $150 was going to take too long. It would of been hell popular again. I actually think personalised plates can stay with plates.co.nz but euro plates with normal government letters should be kept in the realm of NZ government liciencing system. And yes maybe you pay a little bit more ($50) for a euro plate with various end colours. So yes its a monopoloy .. however it is challenagible and the government are open to it. Youll just need 200k for startup costs and some water tight processes and systems already in place before you will be considered.

Yeah I'm hoping too .. Oh nice, yeah I havent really looked into other systems .. only what a mate recommended on his EVO3. Rewired the Honeywell industrial 3 wire 0-100psi 0-5v pressure sensor (which replaces the useless factory pressure switch) for my datalogger/display. Added a automotive sealed connector as it makes removing the oil housing in the future a bit simpler. I probably should have done that from the start a few years a go.. but oh well.

My quest to battle the insane oil temps finally descended in to going all out. At the same time I decided to replace anything on the belt that had a bearing ... Coolant thermostat Water pump Tensioner pulley bearing Guide pulley New belt Alternator ICV to head vacuum drain pipe Internal oil thermostat replaced with external Mocal thermo -8 replaced with -10 AN lines and fittings Vac s50 oil housing to -10 AN adapter. Machined oil diverter valve to allow 100% flow Various elbows and separators The problem with the internal thermostat is that it only allows 33% of the oil when fully open to the cooler. Because I run a larger cooler the oil was not cycling through the cooler properly. It was taking 30mins of driving to even get hot. So it wasn't flowing at all. Effectively making it so I didn't have a working oil cooler. I came up with a much better solution which would push 100% of the oil through the cooler, however it did away with the internal oil thermostat which isn't ideal on a road car. So I sourced a external Mocal oil thermostat which is fully closed under 80 degrees C then will open and allow up to 100% flow to the cooler, which is what I was after! There is one draw back to this option, you are now pushing full pump pressure through a system that isn’t designed for it. So and upgrade of the size of pipe and fittings was in order. I went for -10 AN fittings in a nice black colour (I'm not usually into dazzly colours) and in keeping with mostly stock look. Removed Stock oil thermostat. And replaced with the diverter valve Installed the new Vac oil housing -10 adpater Installed all the boring stuff.. Made up some lines And installed nice 90 degree AN elbows for the oil cooler. Had to install 7/8-14 UNC to -10 adapters .. imperial sucks. Now to finish up tonight and burn everything in... Doing the oil took a while priming all of the lines but lucky isnt something I have to do too often as its really a two person job.

agreed, you should be able to pull a litte bit more dish in the front, also those tire sizes are wrong in the front, you can see the front wheel profile is larger than the front because they use a 245. should be a 235/35 for the front. This is mine on non m offsets.

e46 m3 front and rear suspension geometry is setup for a staggered setup ideally.

I have a feeling ill be doing the same thing ... as gar as priming soon. did you prime your cooler lines too ? Also just a thought, the gaskets and pickups are all sorted ? some times people have moved the pickup to pump gasket by mistake on reassembly. With mine last time I pulsed the start with no ignition connected for 2-3 mins .. being sure to give the starter a break to stop any over heating. I didnt have a gauge at the time so was being extra cautious.

Any coming out of the cooler lines ? Is the oil filter filling up ?

Enjoy

Having a pretty good experience with mishimoto at the moment. pretty much same product as the fluidyne I had but 1/3rd the price. Personally installing an OEM one from other larger engine car is the way to go really if you want OE quality. All alloy is good for the end tank perspective but to be honest unless youre trying to run something massive its just worth sticking with OEM. EG diesel rads are usually bigger and come with extra features.

Shadow chrome finish for that colour would look stunning, still keep in with your darker theme with out looking ghetto. 19x8.5 front 19x10 rears ... any bigger and it starts to go backwards on the performance stakes. work vs-xx are a great choice of wheel, and the barrels are very stable when you hit a pot hole by mistake, keep the tires inflated to 38-42 psi and it will keep you from damaging them when you do hit something, unfortunately I say when because it doesn't matter how good you are, it does happen eventually. Also you get the nice protruding 'ring' of the lip of the tire which is key to making the car look awesome. It is an anodised coating over flow formed barrels, if you curb them, the only way to fix it is to use a very sharp cutting bit which keeps it close to the same shine. Again offset is everything, so do you research so you dont have fall back on spacers. When you order your wheel you get to choose exactly what offset you want which is awesome. Its less off the shelf and will give the car the unique look. Get some decent lock bolts for security ... unfortunitly the car will attract a lot of attention with nice dished wheels on it. Had my 19 inch Work Rezax IIs on my e46 on for 4 years and it became hard to park with always having to keep security in mind. Going the movies was even a pain. So just something to think about.

the fk453s are pretty good. If you want the best go Michelin

sweet ..cup half full .... conversion time. m54b30

There is already a massive N54/55 following for aftermarket bolt ons. The US has gone nuts. Thats on the stock ECU and stock everything. As with any big numbers build you need to spend money on the other things EG plenium / intake which in most cases anyways you get fabricated.

shhhhh nobodys worked that out yet

Nice work ! ... looks bloody amazing. Love the vibe going on at the moment with people restoring cars back to mint. This is why this community is rad.