Eagle

Built by @BM WORLD Looks fine to me. Hatchbacks can only go so far in the looks dept.

Prices have gone up quite a bit over the years due to E36's becoming more popular and all the parts along with it. If you SC the 4 then it makes a bit more sense to start with that and add whats needed. If you got a complete wreck for cheap enough you could better off , but bigger engined Z3s arent a dime a dozen. Always a gamble buying used parts like engines and transmissions so id rather start with a working car i know is a good base.

Not F30 specific but H&R springs are generally considered to be one of the more firmer\lower options and require uprated dampers. Eibachs would of been the better choice and work ok with B4's or OE replacements. New OE, B4's, Koni SRT, or maybe TRW option if available are about all you can really use for a cheap options. Anything is likely to ride and handle better than your likely worn ones you are riding on at the moment, but looks aside would be probably be downgrade from a fresh OE setup.

Yeah they are fairly plentiful. M50 2.5, M52 2.8 and M54 3.0L engines range from approx $800-$2000. All M4X and M5X engines share the same bellhousing so all gearboxes, flywheel\clutch, starter motor etc can be interchanged\bolted up. Driveshafts usually have to match the specific vehicle type and transmission used, auto and manual have different length front sections. Transmissions are Getrag 220\250 used in ~1.8L-2.5L cars or stronger ZF 320 box used in 2.8L-M3 cars, both use their own cross member, shifter linkages and driveshaft. Diff output flanges can be swapped out to match axles. The Z3 uses a E36 front and E30\318ti rear setup. A lot can be mixed and matched. Dont know of any specific threads myself but Google and http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/Z3/ using part numbers will help you cross reference so you can see what interchanges with what. IMO if you going to a 6 cylinder then its probably way less hassle and cheaper in the long run to buy a 2.8 or 3.0L (especially if you keeping the auto), they arent that expensive and you get the everything along with stronger drivetrain, correct diff, brakes etc etc.

The auto is a old GM 4L30-E originally a 3 speed, heavy and do rob a bit of power but no real flaws when maintained. Not sure how on what they can handle and aftermarket support, would assume its very minimal. S42.net on facebook would give you an idea of what achievable on the 1.9. These engines aren't that cheap to get power out of. ITB\airbox + ecu remap appear to be the best value for money if staying N\A, but otherwise there are a few SC kits available it seems. 6 cylinder swap is certainly the easiest and cheapest, bit more nose heavy depending on the engine, not as reliable and harder to work on but decent output for the $.

Welcome. Is it manual or auto? Whilst Z3's arent the most popular model they quite reliable with the 1.9 engine (only one fatal weakness). Being quite a basic car and using E30 rear suspension setup they don't cost very much to refresh compared to the newer stuff. Feel free to start a project thread when you get it as there's lots of info that can be given if you really want it.

I was getting sick of the diff noises so i swapped the mfactory helical back into my original diff. Decided to do it myself to avoid the shipping hassle and buy the shim kit with new output shaft bearings from difflabs.au. Since i had 4x original shims from both diffs including thinner shim i could build up, figured i could make most sizes without needing to get them machined down. After a bit of fiddling around with different sized shims i got the backlash and gear pattern looking like it was originally. Backlash @ 0.09mm down from 0.14mm so clunking\knocking mostly gone or much quieter. Unfortunately still have a similar gear whine when cruising ~110kph. Both diffs have wear to some extent, but i can only guess based on the previous diff being ok before the solid subframe mounts and\or meyle front diff bushings that they are allowing more noise to be transmitted. The plan now is to convert most of the suspension back to 'OE' spec, chuck in a replacement open diff and sell it when economic outlook is better. I did plan on keeping this but i find i don't really desire to drive the car after converting my Ti to manual. Given the state of the average road these days its very harsh (compared to that) and only really enjoyable when driving fast\hard on decent condition ones. The 80's BMW ethos is what drew me to them nearly 2 decades ago and why i had E30 for 8 years.

Looks like a great example to refresh. No doubt she regret the cheap running costs if she somehow keeps the 4 series for 15 years.

Haha i forgot about UPS. Im sure some of the costs are out of their hands, but certain products seem to be vastly marked up compared to places in the EU. I feel like its the classic case of - company reaches a certain size and becomes more shareholder centric\profit driven.

Just checked, November last year was the last time i used them so i dont think ill ever use them again. It's schmeidmann these days when Spareto doesnt have it. They are a bit slow to ship compared to the rest but are usually quite a bit cheaper than FCP to compensate.

Yeah i dont see the point in doing just the guides either when crappy rings is the main issue, but then if you do those you usually doing a full strip down\refresh. The later model M54 apparently have reinforced valve cover that doesnt crack as much, but you need the later style coil packs to use it. Personally i don't think that's all that common here in NZ at least esp with NZ new cars. The old style coils have better metal design with a more robust base and connector. They feel much more solid and are harder to break\easier to remove. I feel they dont fail as much too but i have no real proof. The new style ones use that plastic quick release tab that can snap and the connectors and coil themselves just feel cheaper and weaker. BMW cost cutting design first used on the legendary N42.

Yeah FCP 'OE supplier' is suspect and why I went with genuine. Like they don't want to brand it because they bought a truck load and don't want loose sales. Did your leave a review so it could be deleted?

Owner just screams lazy

Got solid ones in my E46 atm. Before that was meyle HD rubber ones. Bushing refresh on E36 is pretty cheap parts wise probably $300-400 at a guess. I wouldn't bother inspecting them and just do them all at once when you got the funds. Add struts/shocks, links and mounts if not already done and then you good

Sealed spherical bushings are better in just about everyway compared to poly usually bar cost. Otherwise it's solid/HD rubber for me. Like @Olafhinted at people go from worn old rubber to poly. New rubber firms things up well enough. If it twists then lube maintenance is required at some point also. Subframe bushings are the probably the only place i mainly used to use poly because it's set and forget and easy to install. I don't like the bright colors most of them use either but that's me Spherical bushings on trailing arms arms and hub along with and poly or solid subframe mounts make a big difference in rear end control, but can a bit harsh over sharp bumps in road with low profile tyres not helping. I'd just stick to fresh rubber and enjoy it.

Doesn't even have a wof so who knows. Not sure why the owner doesn't get one?

I would add the nipple caps on the back on the manifold too, 2 smaller ones and a bigger one. Always seem to be cracked to some degree. Can be done later but very easy with it completely off.

Yeah clean end of threads too along with fluid. If they feel like they are binding up when loosening then work them back and forward with more fluid . If still that doesn't work then heat them up with gas torch. No reason for snapping if you aren't forcing them tbh. Wire brush and clean threads then put some anti seize when reinstalling and they will come off easy in the future.

Yeah really don't need fuel and air orings since you don't have to remove either of them but upto you. Oil dipstick is the main one as above. I'd do the ccv system then monitor oil usage before other mods.

The OE mounts generally last a very long time in my experience and rarely truly fail unless they get oil leaking on them. I just replace them because they are very cheap ($10-15ea) and im in the area. Yeah i guess you could say poly is better, but to me i just dont see the need for them and they cost more?

Very good deal for someone that doesnt have most of these. What's the big puller in the middle blue container used on? if you dont mind me asking

Doing the CCV without manifold removal isnt too bad if you have done it before. but as above id take it off and do the pipes at the same time.

Only negatives using poly transmission mounts for the average car. May as well inspect and lube to starter motor if its unknown condition Exhaust gasket for the manifold downpipes and new 4x copper nuts New lock nuts for flex disc depending on where you ordering from Gearbox selector shaft seal (the one the usually leaks) You can do the driveshaft center sleeve bushing if you wanted , but id probably skip it and just lube it up if in good condition (usually is if the guibo hasn't failed) Guibo is easy to source though going by that part number

A classic status would be good but the whole 6\12 month WOF was always a load of crap, aged very poorly too. They should of extended it or just kept it the same. 2000-2010 era cars are the worse for WOF failures in my experience, cheapish to buy and have 12 month WOF, people drive them no cares given to the next WOF and end up with big list. Pre '00 are better as they tend to be looked after more\still on the road and get the 6 month checks.

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