Eagle

Usually unbolt them from the diff flange and leave them on the driveshaft. Could unbolt it from the driveshaft instead, shouldnt matter either way.

Stihl have a 500i, the 'i' being fuel injected like BMW's

I like my electric stuff for certain small jobs but the batteries (rather the battery management) just aint reliable and are too susceptible to random failures. Long term they end up costing more and get obsoleted eventually even if they dont fail.

Dealer probably knows more about it than anyone here. It was imported into the country in 2019 and only done 6000km since so history is probably very lacking.

Exhaust manifold flange gaskets. All the shifter bushings if they havent been done. Maybe engine\transmission mounts, rear main seal, slave cylinder, flex disc and center bearing depending on their condition\wear.

Patience or just make an realistic offer. A certain percentage of sellers use a higher listing price to get near their actual wanting price, eg list for 20k to get haggled down to 15k, rather than just list it for 15k. Most asking prices are based on what the owner thinks its worth or wants for it rather than true market value. The market is still cooling off and prices are still dropping, you should see more realistic prices from owners who are serious about selling as time goes on.

Saw you looking for parts

Worthwhile improvements.

Cold start? Sounds like it could be a loose wastegate actuator arm which is a common rattle on these. If you remove the heat shield and O2 sensor can see and hold it with your hand to verify. There is VW rattle clip you can modify to fix the noise if its vibrating and causing the noise.

Get the N52 6 cylinder instead.

Nothing wrong with cloth if in good condition but ripped cloth seats just look to naff for me not to care. Leather wears much better and can usually be restored much much cheaper via DIY as long as its not too far gone.

Interior looks like it been diddled well, so If thats anything to go by then its likely got plenty more issues.

Technically yes but thankfully very few people care about that stupid rule

Auto boxes arent really worth much\hard to sell. Always better off buying a manual example if they are readily available. Main reason to do one is if you have already spent a lot on the car and plan on keeping it. Sure the value will increase but the conversion cost will negate it so doing it for any financial gain isnt worth it. Manual conversions are likely to be worth less than factory manual given the same condition too. 3-5k in parts to do a proper manual conversion in my books - new flywheel\clutch kit, shifter bushings, cylinders, fluids etc. If you have to pay someone to do it then its not worth it for the average 130i.

Hasn't sold it yet and likely wont at that price. Its a mid 30's car at best given the likely lack of work done to it.

Need to scan to determine what is it. Typically the passenger occupancy sensor mat fault or seatbelt pre-tenioner wire\plug loose. Worst case\less likely a module fault. Most workshops should be able to scan it for you

I meant inner door handle. You can get away without removing the outer one to install the locking mechanism although some may find it easier. As long as you can get into the car you can remove the door card with the door closed and go from there (may result in some damage to it)

At that price im not sure why he thinks driving in to Auckland is going to improve his odds. By the looks of it he's only just started replacing all the original parts that are at their end of life cycle.

E36 are easy compared to anything that came after. I only removed the glass, window rail and door handle.

Yeah sorry i was getting mixed up. Yeah replaced the door lock mechanism, actuator was fine. You could probably pull it apart and inspect it, maybe repair it. We just dont have time for that for went for 2nd hand one. 3k for a new one at the dealership if you feeling rich.

Did a customers one last week for the exact same problem, typical actuator mechanism jam. Luckily managed to get it released by working the inner mechanism and giggling the door.

Id say a gamble - no mechanical history, not great spec and cosmetically very flawed for an M3. My E46 was basically the non-m version of this(besides the interior work) when hqstu bought at 290,000km. Mostly on original parts with the clutch the only big item been done.

Owned both in manual and auto form and you certainly feel the added weight of the V8, plus steering rack vs box makes a big difference in feel, hard not to notice that. The auto 540i is probably near 200kg heavier than a manual 6 cyl depending on options. 540i is great on the open road when you need passing power but mostly wasted if you doing typical Auckland driving. A M54 in good running condition with working vanos has great torque for a old 3L.

Buy a msport 530i and swap the manual bits into it. Not quite as fast as a 540i but way more reliable, better handling and you can use most of the parts from your 528i (540i mostly limited to interior, exterior and rear suspension parts from 528i). The average auto 540i is too much of a ticking timing bomb with timing chain guides, unreliable transmissions as well as the usual E39 issues. So unless its been owned by someone like @hqstu or someone who has thrown lots money at it, id probably avoid it.

Fair enough, if have to pay someone to install it probably makes more sense. I always inspect them and replace the brushes etc if needed. Remanufactured\rebuilt is such a broad term that you dont really know what you are truly getting for your money, same with alternators.