Eagle

Id add some stuff having owned both for at least 6 years- E30 tax(obviously), all E36 front end benefits - 5 lug\wheel selection, plug and play steering racks, M3\vert underbrace, camber washers, easier to work on and generally far more part options available. Rear end is easier to work on due to more space and the inner brake lines are way easier to change. E30 benefits that i can think of - factory medium case diff and axle setups if you doing a engine swap\power upgrade. Some interior stuff is higher quality - door cards, headlining etc. Proper spare wheel. Old style sport seats and no airbags (preference). Possibility the having a stiffer body due to rear seat bulkhead. Great engine which suits both chassis with a manual box. Always wanted to see it in a drag race - M44 vs M20B25, i reckon the M44 would do ok.

If it weren't for the 4wd system id agree, shame they did make a rwd version as its pointless for most people.

Yeah M54's in the X5 are sluggish and are always revving out to get moving. Amazing how much better the M54 goes in the E39 and E60 M54 with the 6 speed auto.

Not defending, just proving you completely wrong.

As above pretty much. Waste of time\money getting 2nd hand ones as they will likely be very worn original items with torn boots at the minimum. You can get aftermarket Meyle upper arms for around $250 shipped from Spareto (usually arrive it 4-6 days) https://spareto.com/products/meyle-track-control-arm/316-050-0054 & https://spareto.com/products/meyle-track-control-arm/316-050-0055

I pity the fool who thinks compact practicality is nil

Ive taken apart an E39 one which id class as a stepped tandem master cylinder, presumably the E46 would have the same design but M3 one may vary in diameters compared to non m. Have you looked at the price on an M3 master cylinder?

You have to book well in advance and have them fitted\balanced? How much cheaper were they compared to the usuals?

Yeah they just lack practicality

Been like that for awhile now hasn't it. I stopped using Hyper once they dropped Michellins. Just bought new PS5's via trade, $600 less compared to Advantage tyres which includes balancing, tyre disposal etc, but that's still at least a $400 saving so basically got a tire for free. Hard to know know what sort of margins these places put on tyres. Even with trade prices there was $100-200 difference for the higher end stuff.

Why i like the E36 Ti vs E30, the less attractive sister with a ugly bum, but she's objectively superior in just about all other areas.

Haha. No E30 is better value to me having paid 5k for similar car back in the day.

For 20k the central locking should be working. That rusty battery clamp is just off putting.

Be interesting to see what they look like mounted thats for sure

Most places probably arent going to repair that for customers. Plenty of techs etc would on their own work hacks which aren't being driven hard.

On the very high side for sure. Fitting and balancing shouldn't be anymore the $50 per tyre, usually about $20ish-$40 here. Dealers here charges about $150 or $170 to do proper alignment, general tyre shops are usually $60-$100. The E34 only has front toe adjustment so they dont have to do much regardless

The outer seal can go bad and cause a vacuum leak and the flap can wear and get rattly. You can buy the outer seal separately. The whole DISA unit was $500-600 new but you can get them 2nd hand at pickapart, wreckers etc. You just buy the whole unit package from trademe or aliexpress https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing/4885607931

Way more reliable engine than anything in a mini. Highly recommend replacing the 2x plastic coolant fittings for cheap overheating insurance if not done already - one at the back of head and one under the manifold. p\n 11531709232 & 11531708808. Usually do the PCV\water hose and pcv valve at the same time as its all connected - p\n 11157501567 & 11151743386. Water pump and coolant expansion tank bottle if not done are also good preventative measures, along with the thermostat which are usually bad (run cold) Temp gauge is buffered so you wont be able to tell from that, so you need a scan tool with live data or unlock the instrument cluster to display coolant temperature (google it) Thermostats are usually bad and run cool and DISA valve diaphragms are usually worn causing some power loss. You can get the diaphragms on ebay and its only usually the smaller one that goes bad. O2 sensor for good maintenance. Belt pulley tensioner bearings can get worn over time.

I honestly thought you were running a blue gold theme. Suppose the subframe bushings will have some company now haha.

There was another diamondschwartz import manual one the E34 facebook group recently which i think sold for 12k asking My valuation would be 20-25k in this market based on the info. A similar 540is to this sold for 18k pre-covid.

Didn't like the original gold colour?

Been on the market for awhile now, started at ~35k iirc. Looks nice but probably still on mostly original parts. 3 or 4 E34 540i6's for sale atm

Gold caps and 235\40R18 Michellin PS5's fitted, got $500-600 off compared to average retail price so though id buy them while i can.

Removed the harmonic balancer to replace the crankshaft seal which had a very small leak. Decided the put a fresh Corteco one on given the mileage. Had to remove the radiator and drop the condenser down to fit my high torque Milwaukee which still took a few 5s bursts to remove it. Decided to make a tool to install given the 410nm torque and the $80 torque to yield crankshaft bolt, the local dealer surprisingly had one for decent price. My torque wrench only went to 350nm so it was that and a oomph. Was a bit careless with the flux core and welded the middle a bit on the piss but with GR\JP high tensile steel way its overbuilt for the job. New TRW LF-30 pump. Old one was starting to get noisy with glitter in P\S fluid. Not cheap at around $500 from Spareto and sadly made in China with a C&U bearing even, but at least its new and hopefully better than the other aftermarket ones or random 'rebuilt' ones Installed new belt Conti belts along with an INA hydraulic belt tensioner upgrade. Replace the stupid torx pulley bolt for a 16mm bolt to make your life easier

Good excuse to clean up the old system and re-assemble with new gaskets, nuts and E90 etc upgraded exhaust studs(shorter with e-torx head) Hand scotch pads, die grinder pads and a product called P21 polishing soap bought it up decent. Far better product to use than nasty Autosol.