Eagle

Beat up 530i just arrived at pick a part Mangere if you something fast. Its sitting right in an inch of mud though.

Doing anything to the evils under the intake?

Mercedes considered a W18 in response to BMW's experimental V16. The M120 was the response for M70 which was BMW response to top the M119 5.5L V8. I think the M120 has held up very well unlike the M70\M73

Hopefully he removed that stupid american feature

Yeah could possibly be the module im not sure. Others can probably confirm the location etc as i haven't played around much with E39 audio, i would think its below or behind the amp etc, possibly hidden behind the carpet. I don't think having no nav would change the location but you can remove the screen easy enough and check for the plug. Yes if you dont have the 17 pin plug in the dash then you will need to run the extended harness.

Thought it looked familiar. 240k is not even close to being high k's.

M54 return is at the filter. Suppose you could re purpose the old fuel return line for regulator vacuum or rip the hard vacuum line off an E46 etc and re route to suit

Makes sense given the Commodore was always a decade behind the 5 series. These days i wouldn't to have a decent crash in anything older than BMW E38\E39.

Yes you can't claim exemption but certain businesses will refund you the VAT as above.

Most places have never charged me tax regardless but some places ive ordered stuff from in the UK will charge VAT for domestic export deliveries. but you could get VAT refunded upon proof of export via license

Probably just DOT 4. Penrite is what i use now, i wish the 4.4L was around back in the day as it would of saved me a sh*t tonne of $

I got brass brake caps for lines and calipers but as above i just use varying brake clamps most of the time

I was meaning putting the axle nut back on the shaft to secure it so you can try and get the rotor off again I think going to need a some more gear if you want to do it by yourself. You still going to be a wheel bearing puller kit or big rod and plates with correct diameters to get the actual bearing out and in.

Ive used my Koken 3\8" E12 and bar on every BMW ive owned (and a few Mercedes) without issue, if you need more power then you can slip a jack handle, pipe etc on the bar. It can take a little wiggling to move the socket past the axle boot (worse at lower positions obviously) but i guarantee it will work. What stopping you from pushing back in the axle and putting so you can reattach the puller. Ive never used a butane torch so maybe they aren't quite as effective as LPG but it can take awhile when using low temp torches. Heat + slide hammer with a towel or puller is what ive always used to pull hubs but im not sure how you planned to remove the hubs even if you got the rotor off.

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?

You'd want the SLS setup is working properly, so many ive driven had shot accumulators ($350 ea local when i looked years ago and cannot be imported as you normal would). Still prefer it over air setup though.

Doesn't appear to take much for the flap develop some play causing a rattle,but the pin coming out would take a fair bit of wear. Its a worse case horror story imo and would think it would be very loud leading up to it.

Which one? The one Christchurch looks the best if its just a sensor fault. Its had at least had some work done also.

Ive only had issues with M43 ones myself. One of them threw a lean code and rattled and both had split diaphragms which gave a little idle surge and some loss of performance. I only replaced my M54 one because of a vaccum leak at the seal Haven't hear many N52 running good or bad tbh.

Cant hear anything tbh but you tried running with the the DISA unplugged

Oh right. Never had any trouble with my motive one but i only use it for pressurizing the reservoir so don't actual fill it up.

I believe the proper BMW tool is a metal plate which you bolt the slave onto and wind in the bolts compressing the rod. You can do it yourself with a one man bleeder system and pushing the rod by hand or against the bellhousing etc depending on how strong you are. Helps to have some keep watch the fluid level though. Are you are talking about too much pressure pushing the cylinder out the bore? I suppose you could always reverse bleed with a decent syringe

If you are sure there is no air in the system then its likely the master. Ive always had to remove the slave, rotate it with the bleeder is facing upwards then push in the rod while the bleed screw is open to get out the trapped air. A lot easier with pressure bleeder.

LPG torch would have it off in a few mins with that puller on it. Don't know if it heat gun would generate enough heat doing the same but you could try. Otherwise it may be less hassle to pay a garage etc to do the heating part.

Probably not if you have to remove them twice but still a good upgrade for any car, not as hard to install as i expected. In my experience ive never felt any difference when using stiffer(street grade poly bushings) as opposed to good condition OEM rubber.