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New gearbox in the e30. Even got the reverse lights to work. Gearbox is smooth as butter, I used redline shockproof gear oil and changed my diff oil too. Used castrol axle 90 for lsd diffs. That lsd goodness. Took the e30 for a long drive. After almost two months of no driving the battery was actually gone with the wind. 8 year old battery too so not bad. Rang my old man up and he brought me a new battery from the shop so I could get going. Nothing like a cruise with the top down on a hot summers night

Picked up a 2004 e60 545i auto in October last year after being unable to justify an E55 Beautiful tidy car with plenty of go. Working through various rubber and plastic issues that come with age. Previous BMW was an E34 535i which I sold some years ago. Work in IT in Wellington and my other car is a '99 Subaru Legacy GTB which is loads of fun to drive and practical (furniture collection after wife's shopping!) - but now surplus to requirements

Being over 40 and still kicking ass on Star Wars Battlefront fighter squadron... Always knew I'd have been an awesome X wing pilot!

Distilled water is 5 bucks for 10 litres at the supermarket. Don't take the risk.

Well today I reassembled them, but over the past few months I've been slowly working away at them.

And then they offer lower than that.

My new front rotors for the 330ci turned up today, I will use some Hawk HP pads, braided lines and a fluid flush with some new Dot 5.1 fluid. Not sure what brand of fluid so recommendations welcome. The Rotors are RDA and are heat treated and have a corrosion resistant finish.

Hey all - This my new ride! Looking to beef up the sound a bit from stock - been searching muffler deletes and all sorts of things. I am on budget and looking for the most cost effective way to produce a bit more sound from this sleeping beast. Can anyone offer any suggestions? In Palmerston North area Cheers! Like This Back to top Quote MultiQuote Edit Report

For sale 1997 750IL V12 Tiptronic Great runner never missed a beat All the mod cons, I'm sure you guys know about these,I don't need to ramble on Since I've owned it I've done Both air filters Oil filter Oil Fuel filter Both engine belts New accumulators 230 000 k's 6500 Ono Wof/Rego

Welcome mate, we have a meet in a few weeks you are very welcome to come along, bit of a drive but hey nothing wrong with stretching a 545s legs. Check the Meeting forum under wellington

Jealous bro next time we catch up keen to swap cars if you are see what the baur is like you can take the cabby

Hahaha brilliant replies guys. Have had some crazy interest but dreamers it seems. I have a price in mind. Its definitely in fresh 100 notes hahah

Thanks Dave! I too was very impressed. They look even better in person... you'll see them next weekend I used paulfordleatherproducts.co.nz . Paul is a fantastic guy who genuinely wants you to get the best results possible. Very helpful and his products are even better. If you send him an email I'm sure he'll be able to help you. He makes his own products including the dye so I'm confident he could do any colour

Talk to Greg - " Camera Doctor" on here PM me for his details if you want

Bit of a mission, good job on sorting it and the detailed explanation will always help someone else, still gotta love that E39 though right?

That is suppose to be combined. A pointless figure because there are so many variables - a car driving around wellingtons hilly narrow streets with a several motorway runs will burn more than the same car living on the north shore. But like for like a 530i petrol might be another 2.0 l/100km which puts a question over whether the diesel is worth it. My daily commute mostly open road in the Waikato saw my e46 320d at 6.2-7 l/100km while e39 530i was mid 8s. Puts a question mark over the financial benefits of the diesel not to mention the e39 being a superior open road driver.

talk to kayne barrie motorsports he might have a spare v12 manual for sale

Not the salient point of my post. But I'm pretty sure you know that. :rollseyes:

Friend of mine in the UK was going to get one until he saw it in person at the launch, then he decided to buy this instead as it's roughly the same money after attending the launch day for them previously. Apparently only 3 new ones remain and all are spoken for.

Pretty economical for its ability to haul a$$ !!!500NM @ 2000rpm

Maybe an option as my head does smack the roof when going over bumps. Looks like I have to stick with with 36's and 46's just for the room.

Also I will let you know how the water got in. I will try my best to explain it, as anyone with an E39 may have this issue and not know. - Just above the ECU (top right of engine bay standing in front of car) is one of the clean air intake boxes for the air con. - Down the side of it (closest to the side of the car) is a water channel for the water run-off from the front windscreen. - This channel has a rubber seal to ensure the water from the windscreen runs over the air box and not behind it. - This seal was missing from my car! - This is where it gets interesting, the water was running backwards (you know what I mean) and into the metal housing that has the plastic ECU housing inside it. - It is usually OK for this to happen because the metal housing has drains in it, but in my case they had blocked, due to that seal missing and they were being used every time it rained. - This metal housing fills with water and the water runs into the ECU box via the positive pressure pump hose hole. - Once the ECU box fills up, the water then runs down the positive pressure hose, through the fire wall and into the cabin. - This water flows under the carpet into the foot well. The space between the carpet and the floor in an E39 is quite large and the foam under there holds water very well and it has no way of escaping. Sorry about the long explanation, but a simple seal can almost write off your car, it also messes with your electrics so bad that you feel like there is no hope. Please feel free to ask me any questions about this, I am almost an expert.

A bit of an update on this: * I found water had been trapped under the passenger seat for months. This caused the following problems (that I know of so far) - The Yaw sensor for the stability control was under there and was completely shot. - A lot of earthing terminals are under that seat, including the communication line for the OBD system. Once I dried out the water, replaced the yaw sensor and repaired the rusty comms terminals, I can now read the entire network of computers! - This told me that there was a fault with the MAF sensor, I replaced that and now she doesn't randomly cut out! - It also told me there is an fault with the thermostat, I have ordered a new one, and I am confident this will fix the slow-to-start when hot issue. It has been a long battle trying to solve all my issues - but thanks to finding that water under the passenger (left front) seat, I am now having some success. The dealer I purchased the car from knew there was a leak and told me they had a specialist fix it. After calling that specialist, they told me they had never fixed the leak. They went to pick it up, but it didn't start! So the dealer LIED! Thanks to everyone here that helped, and your suggestions lead to me finding the water.

Pretty much this IMO, its cheap enough.

Mate just bust out the vice grips

Repaired a CD stacker over the last couple of days, it needed a bit of clean out, slightly too much dust on the plastic gears for me. I regreased them and did a full recap of the board, it took a good few hours to document their specs, remove, clean the board and solder in new ones. A lot of their locations are near ICs which don't like heat, so plenty of care is required. This one had a CD jammed inside the player mechanism. It seems the deteriorating caps on the control board were causing this issue, other stackers I've fixed including my own usually start with poor tracking and skipping, especially on higher number tracks.

E30 can take you all the way big fella The seats have a lot of travel

All good just as long as it's out of my garage. Andy?

And installed...................

more bling on the doorstep. Pavlov Racing control arms are fabricated from thin wall 4130 chromoly steel. These arms are 100% TIG welded and fully argon backpurged. They are then stress relieved, heat treated, and powder coated. These arms are available in stock length +10mm and +16mm longer per side for increased track width. Standard inventory is 10mm wider track width. These arms weigh 3.8lbs, The arms use high misalignment oversized bearings which allow for increased suspension travel without bearing binding. The arms also allow for bearings to be replaced using a simple press in press out method and replacement parts are easily available. Simply pop out the snap ring and press the old bearing out and the new one in. and Front Control Arm Rear Brackets from AKG these are adjustable

$7000 in warm, sticky coins *shudder*

i love it when people offer "$xxx.... IN CASH" or "COLD HARD CASH IN HAND" lol.. how else are you gonna pay? warm soft cash? smh

^ actually, not even joking, the Passo Racy version with a 1.3 is pretty great. also have seen 1.5litre turbos from the YRV slot in them in South east asia.

It helps if you don't do "or near offer" I think. Set a firm price, avoid the haggling bulls**t Didn't have many time wasters when I sold mine, just a few silly swap offers (some guy offering a Daihatsu Sirion made me crack up). Took over 6 months to get it sold though, and a lower price than I'd like. Gotta be patient, small market for old high mileage cars, most people want boring Hondas ect

Yup, I love the line 'Whats the lowest you'd take...' when they haven't even seen the car yet.

I also felt a twinge of want when I saw Brads E30 Mtech2, then I got in it and realised that at 6'5 the E30 is just to small for me. I felt like a Greyhound trying to mount a Chihuahua. Pretty looking car though and the M52 conversion made it nicely quick.

Extremely clean and genuine e30 325i mtech 1. Mint example coupe for 13.2 k ono

Been a while since I updated. Have now expanded into other areas and I can also now do the following: E46 LCM firmware reflash - update from CI35 to CI36 or CI37 - these give extra functions to the light controls - most notable the triple blink feature. I also own brand new units of CI36 and CI37, meaning I can flash these into brand new units ready for coding with any cars. Of course not entirely necessary to turn these into brand new units, but helpful as CI36 and CI37 firmware locks out odometer and VIN number tampering. Also in the works at the moment is the infamous E38/39 727 airbag module - I can now flash these modules also and fix the dreaded 240 internal ecu error (under testing, awaiting confirmation that these repairs are software related).

It's like he's always stuck in 2nd gear...

outside

So I got out new car today, thanks to everyone advice. It's a 2007 550i lci e61. Just love how nice it drives and the power. Only got it yesterday so far I have just washed it, clean and condition the leather (mothers products are great) and have done the exhaust flap vacuum pipe by pass so now it sounds a lot better at idle. Still yet to get the radio and nav converted, plus need to get the battery replaced which the dealer will cover. Car is still running new run flat tyres and they don't ride to badly. Also will change out the angel eyes to led and get them coded to be daytime running (the options list had them down as decoded). Big thanks to Breaker for showing me his car. Quick question, what are the two plastic grills above the rear seat in the headlining? They are directly above your head and are forward of the roof speakers.

What sites are you getting your info from? If you have been on the American forums they are referring to the S50B30US, which is effectively an M50B25 with an M54B30 crank. Those cams will drop straight into your engine, the proper S50B30 ones will not without extensive modification

Fixed that for ya.

After many months of patiently waiting for a 6-spd manual low km 135i to pop up for sale I finally got my hands on one a couple of weeks ago! I was looking for a car that was 6-spd, sunroof, less than 75k and NOT BLACK and came across this - my sedona red 135i. Ideally would've preferred a 2009 but can't be too picky! So far I have ordered some 18" VMR 710's rims with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 tyres from the US as the run flats need replacing and may as well may it look good at the same time! Won't arrive for another 6-8wks though due to LA port congestion. Thought about ordering some performance parts too (intake, exhaust, downpipes, charge pipe, intercooler, cobb V3) to add on to the shipment but thought better and will just take my time before jumping into mods If anyone knows where I can get the idrive changed to NZ (maps and radio) that would help a lot!

Re Exhaust in the meantime disconnect the flapper valve, so both pipes are open. It makes a significant change. That mod plus cats out is enough for most, and people have regretted going more than that

Makes for some very interesting reading into the challenges faced in creating a performance exhaust for mass market.