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228XXXkm Rear end refresh. Jon at Auto38 did the work in a very timely fashion. Still needs a wheel alignment and a highway run to see if it’s cured the vibration. - Integral links - upper control arms - guide links - sway bar links - swaybar bushings - wheel carrier ball joints Bit of a mix of Lemforder, Meyle and TRW I also have put the roof racks back on to carry the bike since my desire for a wagon has been put off for a little bit longer.

It's cheaper to take the M5 to BMW for the WOF than to VTNZ, and BMW wash it as well. No brainer.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2702353248?bof=z4iqX4SR

Repco has oil on Sale again. And if you spend over $75 and order online you get another $15 off. $25 off if over $100. Castrol 5w30 LL is $69.00

The latest in a series of "e39 rescue" is now available to its next guardian... I picked this one up just before lockdown as it had a certain style of wheel I thought I needed as a spare set... Lockdown was very busy in the garage as I "worked from home" This early e39 528 with M52 engine has had a lot of attention and too much $$$ thrown at it in a short space of time... Everything is now up to date, all working, and is oil and watertight... As a few highlights... Waterpump, thermostat, front rotors (gen BMW) and pads, rear pads, front brake hoses, new windscreen, windscreen trim and cowl, rear windscreen trim, new console tray and compartment, facelift headlights polished and adjusters replaced, replaced foglight, excellent set of standard wheels with near new tyres, front sway bar links, rear suspension upper control arms and lower inner bushes, power steer hoses and pipes, fuel filter, window regulator replaced, bonnet/boot struts, cupholders.... The electric rear blind has been replaced and the parcel tray dyed black. The entire car has had a time consuming paint correction to remove clear coat scratches, along with the dent magician taking care of a few small dents. The door handles have been painted along with other touch ups around the car. There is still minor evidence of 24 years or so of life, low on the front and rear bumpers, and on drivers door as examples... but in general the oxford green metallic paint is pretty good... This car was imported from Japan in 2005 and has had one NZ owner before myself. The car was fitted in NZ with a widescreen monitor and navigation, the last map update being in 2011, which makes it a bit of fun... Other features include rain sensitive wipers, fold in mirrors, heated front seats, a quiet working sunroof with clear drains. 241,xxxkm or so. https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/bv73322 I have decommissioned the intensive washer function, but the headlight washer system has been repaired with a new supply hose. This car is in excellent all round condition and is "good to go" The engine is silky smooth and the trans is also good, albeit being a Jatco it has the mandatory "jatco jerk" shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 when cold. After a few changes it's all good... Looking for around $3900 or reasonable offers.... "nothing to do" but of course I cannot offer or imply any sort of guarantee / warranty. Fresh WOF.

Carjam will only show WOF details up to last change of ownership unless you pay for a report

I ran yokos 509s in 195/65/14 on my e30 323i years back. They are an old design but were the best of the many tires I had in the 270,000 kms I drove it.

I've no issue with spending the extra for Michelins, etc, but finding them is a real problem at present. I've run Hankooks on the W201 for ages. Very pleased with them.

I went for Hankook K415's (196/65R14) over the Kumhos, based on price and reading endless reviews on-line. They're better than I expected. Not a sport-performance tyre, but a reasonable touring tyre. The only time I've come anywhere near aquaplaning was on a thoroughly flooded road in torrential rain - RE003 would cut through - I should have been going 10kph slower. They've reasonable feedback, aren't too mushy in the sidewalls yet are comfortable, and grip enough. Looks like the Kumho KH27 has been superseded by the ES31 - you'd hope to get a great quit-stock deal in normal circumstances, though in our covid-world, there may be slow replenishment stocks with the global freight slowdown. Beyond the Hankooks, in this size, I'd be looking to Michelin or Continental - probably the only reasonable premium options in this size, from memory? Hope that helps, mate.

Sold the E46 320d. Sad day, but it does have a small issue - it won't start. Our move, no garage or workshop, and largely - no time - have meant I didn't get it sorted. Gone to another forum member though, and I'm sure it will live again.

Ah, got you. 316L or duplex is not cheap. I do a lot of SS equipment for the F&B Production/manufacture and variation in costs can be whiplash inducing. I can get items made up in italy and shipped over for half the cost of doing it here.

Good ol'days huh. Paid $15 a pint (US Pint ) in the CBD last week. Even my local Gladstone Pub is $9 a handle and it's only open Wed to Sunday. No more Monday drinking.

100 bucks a hose end is a little on the high side, but overall, the complete cost is not so far out if the 14 hoses (assuming flexible stainless braided hoses are on the EXARO hose register.

Showing your age now Dan... "I can remember when... beer cost less than a pound a pint, and WoFs were only $20... my son"

Wow gone are the days of the $20 WOF. Long gone.

$67.00 for a WOF check at VTNZ. And an hour long waiting time.

Haha I wish. Renewing my DDP, somehow managed to convince them to let me do it even though I definitely don't need it anymore as aircrew ?

Lol, just had something from aliexpress arrive that I had written off, as I ordered it at the start of January!

It needs to change it's rating system. 2nd Hand Item - Rate the trader New Item - Rate the trader and the item Obviously rating the Item would only work for items with brand names and/or model numbers. Not crafted items. This lumped into one website they have is a sh*t show.

e60 V8 is a nice not-boring family car.

2series active tourer??

This panel section has really got my work cut out for me. Don't know what happened to this side but very subtle ripples and dents all over the show. Done several runs over with guide cost, block sanding and filler. They looked straight in many places, but far from it. And it's obvious now someone has also done a hack job Rollin the rear guards. I know it would been a lot quicker if I didn't take the entire panel back. But not knowing the condition of the repair would have eaten away at me after I finished painting.

all the wheels you've posted photos of are 19's if im not wrong..

cage all done, just need homologation and it can get painted and all go back together

Just listed my 335i on TM for anyone interested. Details: Owned this car for the last 3 years. Been an excellent daily driver however now upgraded to an X3 so surplus to requirements. Fresh service and WOF just done (May 2020). No expense spared on maintenance. In the last year I have replaced water pump, thermostat, brake pads and two tyres. Features include: - LCI facelift model - Le Mans Blue on Black Nappa leather - NZ Navigation and bluetooth - 69,xxx kms - Service history throughout ownership - Panoramic electric sunroof - Keyless entry - Cruise control - Electric mirrors - Heated front seats Roof racks not included but can be negotiated. Price: $24,900 Link to listing: https://www.trademe.co.nz/2699846628

ISTA Is a bit of pig with real virtual com ports, I can imagine it being even more of a pig with virtual virtual com ports

Thanks @hqstu for the sandpaper ‘hot tip’

While the weather's been crap, and the OBD is now reading the car, I thought i would dig into the final warning light on the dash, the ABS Thought this might be a helpful write up if anyone else comes across this problem, because I would say wiring / connection issues are probably more common than the actual pre-tensioner failing. ** Edit ** I'm writing this because I don't want anyone else reading this to get the wrong idea or bad information, as I am aware pretensioners and air bags have pyro charges in them. If you're planning on doing your own testing, seek advice from an electrician about this and follow correct procedures before commencing. The battery had been disconnected for atleast 15 minutes prior to me unplugging or inspecting any harnesses / plugs. The pretensioner was removed from the seat and placed in a vice when I tested for ohms. To measure resistance of the pre-tensioner the short tabs need to be dis-engaged, i'm aware why these are there, to prevent the device accidentally being set off outside of it's intended purpose in a crash. I am aware that a multi meter sends a small amount of current in order to measure resistance, from what I've always been told on a 200 ohm scale a maximum of 3 volts will be used, which I am told is not enough to set off a pyro charge but seek your own advice on this. I am also aware that static electricity carries enough voltage to set off a pyro charge The purpose in why I posted this up in the first place was more to show where the failure for me occurred, as I couldn't find much about it specifically online about "Low resistance" fault, and the small adjustment I made to ensure the shorts are dis engaged when plugged in, doesn't compromise the safety circuit of the pre-tensioner, when the plug comes out, the shorts engage again anyway. ** Edit ** So the 2 codes it pull was - resistance too high passenger, I pulled the pre tensioner plug out, cleaned it put it back in, and that code went away - resistance too low driver side, pulled the plug out cleaned it, put it back in and code persisted. From my research that code of low resistance is usually a sign of either a failed pre-tensioner, or one that has been deployed. Found a spare one with wiring at pickapart for $12, so swapped both tensioners onto both sets of wiring, no avail Took the driver seat out again, measured the ohms on the pre-tensioner, seemed to be Ok about between 1-2 ohm ish (not sure my leads on the multimeter are still 100% accurate anymore) Plugged it in, and measured from the larger plug, you have to dis-engage the metal tab from the pin in there too, which is a pain, And measured 0 ohm. So still suggesting a short circuit some where. Cut the wiring insulation from the main plug to look for a break in the connection, found nothing. So thought that's strange, which left me with something at the plug in the pre-tensioner end I thought maybe when it was plugged in, the tabs weren't disengaging from the pins, thus creating a 0 ohm curcuit, tried adjusting the tabs a bit so it would push back easier with the plug engaged to no avail, so I adjusted the end of the plug by adding a tiny bit of a lip to push back those tabs when I inserted it Measured it from the larger connector and sure enough, showing correct ohms again ------------------------------------ Installed tensioner back on the seat, plugged it back in, then connected the battery. Loaded up ISTA, reset the Errors, and warning light finally gone! Hope this helps, wrote it up because I was struggling to find a description of this specific issue, about the plug not disengaging the metal tabs (that act as a fail safe) when performing service work Onto more body work tomorrow, got to get rid of some final low spots.

Long time no update! Its in great shape and just gone over 400.000km! -M20B25 Swap -Manual Conversion (G240) -Poly Bushes -Koni Shocks -King Springs -Recaro Seats -Ultra Racing Front Strut, Front Subframe and Rear Strut Braces -LVVTA Certification Next thing is a re-paint. The front panels (bonnet and guards) are peeling clear coat something chronic.

$5K +gst bill for some custom hydraulic lines, of which $2800 was for 28 stainless hose ends. I’m in the wrong trade it would seem!