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Back where it belongs, now the hard part, connecting all the wires and hoses.

This is a generally my forgotten about car which is fine for a 2k daily. However it's certainly getting more time/love than the M3... totally replaced interior (abandoned M3 project + used from Zebra) totally replaced suspension w/M3 inc. used struts, springs and bars w/all new mounts, bushes and links entirely new cooling system rad, pump, therm, hoses etc. (new OEM + alu rad) aftermarket wheels and new tyres (17's forged BBS RGR + cheap Pirellis) For the sum total of ~$850. Now I've found the rock that caused me to replace the sump also caused a hairline fracture in the steering rack. Either that or I caused it when replacing the sump? I don't think I was that violent! I have the great condition old rack out of my M3 sitting in the garage and I've just picked up a "comprehensive" PS refresh kit from FCP (~NZ$300 delivered). NOTE: this ended up being a LHD only kit!! So in the next few weeks (hopefully - the PS leak is small so I have time) I'll have new interior, suspension, cooling and steering for close to 3.5k all in including wheels and new tyres. Happy with that. I need to top up the gearbox, it's slipping so hope to do that at the same time (and with the same fluid, bonus). FCP bits - which ended up being a LHD kit. ?

And in other news, finally got around to purchasing the suspension

It didn't. The cause is whatever caused the original diagnosis of "has seized / sticky lifter would recommend new engine or head" whether that diagnosis was correct or not.

Those decals must add at least 5k though.

We dont really use it much so might just see if anyone needs a cheap runaround car. Spent a lot of time to tidy it up and it is in pretty good condition. The engine is healthy as (19x,xxxkms) and rev's up easily. its a 1998, genuine msport, sunroof, black interior all re-done, automatic, e46 centre armrest fitted, fake alpina badges all round Not sure what its worth but would be happy with 2k or close to it. Here is a link to the thread I made when I got it.

I can also vouch for the “drive a very long way without coolant”. My better half was driving with our then very young son. Afternoon coming back from supermarket, car making funny noise, smells funny. Son making loadsanoise (it’s afternoon, as babies will). Goes to service station, they add oil. Child is going nuts by this stage, so (with my blessing - who’s going to consign the mother of their child to wait for an hour for breakdown service with a 3-6 month old baby?) drive it the 10-15 mins home. I get home, have dinner, around 7.30 have time to check things out. Take it for a drive, it’s running okay... 8 mins in I’m thinking “hang on, no fluid for the temp gauge, so it’s not rising?” Just as it started rattling. I shut her down, called the AA. diagnosis: drain tap busted off the radiator, dumped it’s coolant. That Nissan 1400cc all-alloy multi-valve engine had done a minimum of 30 mins driving over three sessions. It was towed to a workshop. next day, checked over, filled with water (no rad), oil and filter changed; started okay. Radiator repaired, coolant replaced, oil and filter again. Ran it for five more years before we sold it, brilliant car!

Just because the timing belt is fitted doesn't mean it's working/turning correctly, My partners car chucked the woodruf key, thankfully the 4A series are non-interference, so mainly it was amusing, crank was fine, only pulley damaged. You can check the motion of the belt/pistons by removing all the plugs, and turning the engine over by hand (or with a socket/bar on the timing pulley (Clockwise only!)) and make sure TDC is where it should be. To find TDC you can put a long socket extension down the plug hole

our local school fair always runs a random donated motor till destruction as a kids betting fundraiser every year, they go full revs for a bloody long time before bang

Haha yeah, I’ll straight swap you for your style 65’s ?

Yes Nick does some cool videos, quite eclectic too, he does aircraft as well from what i can remember... He lives in the states and his format is really good, also good to hear a kiwi voice in a video!

my experience of bike racks is they need the flat surface of the tounge as part of their stability.The only other way i can think is a receiver type bike rack ie the bike rack itself is welded to a square section which slides into the receiver in the car which means you will need to have a nice insert in the bumper

Nah, the MPars are damaged... you should gift them to me ??

I once drove a car that had a blown head gasket, it eventually stopped when the cylinder head got so hot the distributor cap MELTED and started drooping onto the rotor! It takes a lot more than 5 minutes to do that.

I've recently gone through the MVDT because of a dodgy car from a dealer and I can assure you, you can't hide behind 'as is where is'. We won the case convincingly.

That's not correct Gabe... CGA still applies under the Act. You cannot contract out of the CGA. Twp parties can still make an agreement but that all changes when the sh*t hits the fan.

There was an interesting test case where a trade-in sold by a dealer "as is where is" was adjudged to still be bound by Consumer Guarantee's Act. I believe the logic applied was that it was still sold by a dealer, though the business and off the lot. Hence it should be covered by the CGA. If you take that same scenario to a Trade-Me Auction then I would suggest it would also apply if the conditions are the same. However, if it is somewhere like say, Turners or Mannheim, then I believe that then does not fall under the CGA and it truly is "buyer beware".

My understanding is the law changed on this about 3 years ago, and that $1 reserve auctions are now bound by CGA if sold by a dealer.

Good greif, Man! Hope you're OK now. I guess you were keeping that quiet after the chaos you caused Fellow truckies might have come over to give you a slap... hahaha!

indeed, very pleased to hear you're okay, Hans. Great to see your e38 project moving forward again.

https://www.stuff.co.nz/dominion-post/news/porirua/107960545/truck-carrying-chemicals-crashes-north-of-wellington-closing-state-highway-1 Glad your OK Hans ?

Well it has been a while, but after my accident, and not allowed to drive my truck again, I have spent some time on the e38, and redone the interior, redone the hood lining, put leather seats in and they are all working, other doorcards, welding in new pieces on the boot, and than I will be putting in the reconditioned motor

I removed the 20s and on went the OEM M3 Style 24 17x7.5" wheels They need new tires all around, as 245 cheapies on the back and 215 semi slicks on the front is a bit weird looking ( and the tread is low all around). Will be going OEM 235/40 all around.

ok,,,,had a look at all the offerings from this TradeMe seller. Some nice, desirable, bits of kit here. The seller seems to have some good contacts (in Japan?). Prices seem very high though the cars on offer are presented well. Nothing exceptional in regards to collectability or really low km's imo however. As usual, the market will decide on the true value of these cars, and I suspect that, at these prices, these vehicles may sit a while before being sold at lower values.

I really like the Z she(?) has for sale, but lol @ 42 grand. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1903863125.htm?rsqid=8d84c4828a4f4dae97ebb3e38c87529f

They are going up in the US too. Seen some stupid prices for what is not a real E36 M3 in my eyes. Useless US motor they were forced to put in it. They are the same price as E46 M3's now. Which are in the low teens.

Ok ok, so i get it now, you bought a car that had KNOWN issues, and then you think its because you drove it with no coolant that it failed? No, its probably something to do with the ORIGINAL fault.... ? Could've dropped a valve or anything.

Keep in mind that with most, if not all, temp sensors that drive the gauges, they require LIQUID to read anything. If there is no liquid passing the sensor, they will tend to read cold.

lol - this will be a terrible story about 'how much damage could be done' - you've not described anything that could remotely hurt one of the most durable engines man has ever made.

So it's just not firing? 1 kilometer from cold? The coolant wouldn't even be a factor over that distance. Heck, you could probably run it with no oil over that distance and not do permanent damage (perhaps - don't try this). And it's a Toyota. Maybe just fill up the washer bottle and give the bumper a kick?

Oh, and I like to treat the old girl well. A new oil filter (obviously) and the prescribed amount of Penrite HPR5 5w40 was used to fill her up but before that I threw 8 litres of this through the system to flush it out until it ran golden (edit: no filter, sump plug hand tight, tip in 4l and start/idle the car for 15 seconds, drain 3l, add the remaining 4l, run car for 60 seconds, drain it all). $20 for 4 litres from Repco at 50% off and I can't complain... and it's called "Ultraclean" so it must be good at cleaning...

Remember Friday labour weekend, wellington blocked for 18 houres, that was me lol, had a heart attack, changed the oil and filter in gearbox and put it back on the motor, ready to put back in car.

Yep no truck driving at all and 4 more months bevore i get my car license back, unless i get a shock from my inplant, than it will be another 6 months. Start a new job at the sawmill on wednesday, truck is getting fixed, than i will put a driver on to keep it going