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Do not work under a car supported by jacks, multiple blocks of wood or wheels laying on their sides!! You will probably not know that the car has fallen off as you'll be dead! The car needs to be supported by 4 (four) good quality jack stands. I use 3 ton 4WD jack stands. The car needs to be quiet high off the ground so you can get the transmission out. Measure the height of the transmission at the bellhousing to engine join. If the car is not have more than that measurement off the ground, then the transmission will not come out. You will want to clean inside the bell housing and maybe replace seals and pivot pins. Best done with the transmission out away from the car. The less time you spend under the car the less the risk of it falling on you. You need a good quality 2 ton floor/hydraulic jack, so you can support the transmission when you take it out by yourself and carefully lower it to the ground. You'll need the same jack to lift the transmission up to re-install it. A 2 ton jack has the lifting height to do the job. Make a cradle to hold the transmission on the jack. No jack and you are trying to lift a very heavy transmission while lying on your back. One slip and your are off to A&E due to the injuries' of dropping the transmission on yourself. Or if you actually manage to lift the transmission up to the engine, it will hang there supported by only the input shaft sitting in the piolet bearing. It's going to slip out, just when you have your head arm or body under the transmission as you try to fit some bolts. Not nice. Am I over dramatising this. No I am Not!! Been there, done the foolish silly things 30+ years ago and been to hospital to heal with lots of time to reflect on my mistakes. I replace clutches by my self these days, but I have the right gear, take it slow and spend a lot of time working out the heavy lifts to minimise hazards. Do not get nominated for the Darwin Awards.

Arh the Infra Red remote key. Here are some tips: The radio test works for the RF keys but not the IR keys. IR keys do not transmit any RF signal for the radio to detect. To see if the IR key is transmitting, grab a digital camera, turn it on and point it at the diode as you press a button. The IR diode will flash white if it is transmitting. See the attached on how to pair the key with your car. It's a little different to the RF key pairing instructions. It took me ages to find these instructions. They work and fixed my problem. With INPA you can look in the General module or ZKE and see if the key is paired to the car and working. There is a place where you can see a digital input (black dot) change colour when you push either button 1 or button 2. INPA also lets you fault find further into the system if the central locking is not working. You have to point the IR diode at the clown nose on the inside rear view mirror for the system to work. It needs line of sight. Not like the RF keys which work on radio waves. Infra-red key reprogamming instructions.pdf

Really?? Go to www.RealOEM.com. You have two choices: Enter the last 7 digits of your VIN number into the search tool and press enter. It will list in the boxes the spec of your car. Click on the "Browse Parts" button below the boxes and off you go, looking for part numbers specific to your car. Use the search boxes to find your car. Clue- the E36 is in the "Classic" catalog. Once you have clicked in the boxes your car's spec, the "Browse Parts" button will show and you can click on it and go looking for part numbers. But first of all: Make sure the modem is turned on and it's made the squawking noise. The glass milk bottles and tokens are at the front gate ready for the milkman And you have a fresh pot of tea with the tea cozy on it to keep it warm. You may be on the internet for a while.

RealOEM gives part numbers only. With the part number, you can do your internet shopping in places like: Pelican Parts FCP Euro ECS Tuning Lots of other places. Even on E-Bay, there will be a list of equivalent part numbers in the details. You just have to look and read ALL the listing carefully. Just search for "BMW {the part number you want}"

With that new information, I would forget about the number of splines. Just buy a clutch kit to fit a manual 320i E36. Check out www.RealOEM.com for some BMW part numbers. Then you can go shopping for direct replacement parts or single mass flywheel equivalents.

I did a clutch job on my 2.0L E36/7 (Z3) a couple of years ago. Went with the LUK dual mass fly wheel and clutch kit. Around $2,000 for the parts only. You are in the world of unknowns: - What engine has the E36 got? 2.5L or less and the 228mm clutch is good. > than 2.5L or forced induction/performance tune, 240mm clutch is the one you want. Both fit in the 220g bell housing. - Where did the transmission come from? E36 and early E46 have the same number of splines on the transmission input shaft. Late model E46's have a different number. This impacts on the clutch kit you purchase. - Duel Mass Flywheels are expensive, but they work well. Some single mass flywheels have chatter in neutral, others don't. Others will have experience here and can tell you what works. Suggest you remove the transmission and have a look before you purchase parts. Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. These can be used 1.5 times on average. They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block. Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times. Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change. This leaves you in a world of pain. Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place. Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access. Edit If you have a dual mass flywheel, you need to check it carefully. While the surface may look OK, you need to check the condition of the rubber between the 2 mases. I think the spec for the dual mass fly wheel is 10 degree of rotation between masses. Count the teeth on the starter ring and work out how many = 10 degrees. Grab the clutch and see how much rotational slop there is before the engine turns. Count the teeth that move past a fixed reference point and see if it's more than 10 degrees. If it is, then don't reuse the dual mass flywheel.

Southebys has a 507 going under the hammer on 17 September 2021. If interested, you had better raid the piggy bank and under mattress safe to raise enough money. https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/bmw/507/507/1958/251303?utm_source=Weekly&utm_medium=E-Mail&utm_campaign=Newsletter

Yes that is the engine code for the M52B28 single VANOS engine. I'll let others answer your other questions.

Have a really good look under the intake at the sump level. You'll find 2 sets of numbers. One is the the engine number and the other is the engine type number. Use the attached file to identify your engine. If it's out of an E36, then you should have a M52B28 engine. Something like 28 6 S 4 BMW Engine ID sheet.pdf

It's not uncommon on the E46 forums to see the USA owners using such vacuum devices to fill/bleed the M54 engine.

I have the Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software. Not a bad mid range scanner. I like it. Use it in OBD2 mode for fuel trim diagnostics (trims in %) and general engine work. Use it in BMW mode for all other modules. It does most of the stuff that INPA does. It has a little less fun functionality in the "Activation" menus than INPA. The BMW software also covers OBD1/ADS for the older BMW's like E30's and some E36's etc. One thing it does not do, is it will not code new/replacement modules.

Your photo does not show the alignment spec that they used. Was it correct for your car? Both of my Z3's are built the same, yet there are 3 different alignment spec's that have been used on them over the years. It all comes down to the tech's ability to pick the correct spec.

When you crank the engine, does the Tacho jump up a bit? If it does then your crank sensor is working. If the Tacho is flat lined, then look at the crank sensor.

You have an interesting control systems problem. To stop the alarm/light/limp-mode coming in at idle/low rev's, you need to be able to either: - Arm the alarm based on a certain rev level, say 25 PSI when over 2,000 rpm - Vary the alarm with a model, say 5 PSI below normal oil pressure. Needs an oil pressure gage so you can do the modelling. For flicking the DME into limp mode, all you need to do is find a sensor signal that when lost, put the DME into limp mode, then put a relay contact into the signal that is driven from your oil pressure monitor. I'm not up to date with the N54's, but on the later automatic E46's, the loss of the MAF signal put the EGS into limp mode. The DME runs on Alpha-N's for air control, which don't harm the engine in any way

Arrhh, so it's the Alpina drivers that are giving the rest of us BMW owners the bad rap on poor parking skills.

Even Ferrari has a shooting brake in it's stable. A bit more "Clown Shoe-ish" (Z3 coupe) than the Z4 shape.

Read this thread. It will get you started: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/fuel-trims-lean-codes-misfires-and-how-to-diagnose-p0101-p0174-and-more.1284608/ Getting a cheap OBD2 scanner so you can do your own engine tests does not cost a lot. Get OBD Fusion on your smart device and buying the cheap OBD2 adapter (WIFI for Apple or Bluetooth for android) gets you set up. See this thread: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/obd-fusion.1240733/#post-18380161

There is an adapter cable for putting facelift Z3 seats into a pre-facelift Z3. Part number 61106916218 See: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/adapter-tubing/61106916218/

I have recently got a couple of dash cam's for the cars after nearly getting cleanup up by a young driver on a back country road. Remember that the dash cam is recording, so its a two way street. The footage can be used for your insurance purposes after an incident and the police can use it to look at your driving infractions. GPS - Shows speed and location. Very good evidence if you are within the speed limit. - Shows the Police how much spirited driving you do and if you were speeding. Camera Angle of View - Get as wide as you can. 110 degrees is not really wide enough. You want to be able to see and prove that other car did not stop at the stop sign on the side street. Memory card size - Loop recording is a must have - A 4GB card gives about 20 minutes of recording time. G- Shock Recording - This is where the shock of the accident tells the dash cam to save and protect the most recent footage. It's a must have if you run a small memory card. Otherwise the camera keeps recording after the accident and records over the accident footage. You will likely to forget to pull the power lead on the camera after the accident. Super-Cap battery - Provides power for the camera to save the most recent footage when the power is turned off. So if your positive battery lead pyrotechnic goes off during the accident and cut the power, the Camera can still save the accident footage. Mounting - Good old rubber suctions cap mounts are sort of OK. They will fall off on hot days and be a pain to get to stick if the inside of the windscreen is dirty. - Sticky pad mounts are better. Just make sure you know what type they are for replacement, when you have your windscreen replaced. Power Supply - Needs to be hot in start and run. Not hot all the time. BMW cigarette lighter sockets are typically hot all the time and using an adapter in the socket puts too many wires around the gear lever. - A Separate USB power supply wired into a hot in start and run supply works well. I have this one in my Z3's and E46 from Aliexpress. It is mounted under the center console with the wire coming out from under the side of the console. The three 2A USB supplies allows for a GPS, Dash-cam and charging a phone all at the same time with the wires away from the gear lever. Plus no holes drilled or other cosmetic changes made. - Power supply wires can be run up the inside of the A pillar etc. to hide them or left exposed.

BMW Standard Tools on the E46Fanatics forum works well. It is INPA plus the other software tools needed for module changes etc. https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/how-to-install-bmw-standard-tools.1274003/ I also have a Foxwell NT530 scanner with BMW software. It's not too bad for a hand held scanner. Works in both OBD2 and BMW modes. Plus it has a data logger. I use it in OBD2 mode for general engine issues like rich/lean running problems, as the OBD2 fuel trim information is easier to understand.

I saw your tour twice. I was in the Glen Tanner Cafe when your tour came down out of Mt Cook. Noticed your nice E30 Baur with the top rolled back. Then latter that same day or the next day (can't remember) in Tekapo, as you headed towards Fairly. You must have had some beautiful days for travel. With the Autumn colours out (why I was in the McKenzie Country) the country side must have been great to see.

Welcome to the forum That's a nice looking car. If you are interested in going out for drives with other BMW owners, keep a eye on the Christchurch section of the Meetings forum: https://bimmersport.co.nz/forum/27-christchurch/ The Christchurch club has a pub night chat every month. Hey, the next one is tomorrow 5th May. Plus there is a monthly car run. Regards Murray

Welcome Chad Snape look is looking great in the back seat with his yellow bandanna. The E34 is looking good too. Regards Murray

Image is broken. What year is your car?

This thread came up recently in a Z3 forum. It may be of interest. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2446662-Second-of-two-problems-DISA-valve-vacuum-leak